StromTrooper banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is my first time removing an old motorcycle tire and mounting a new one. I've done bicycle tires, so I gather this is the same thing - but different.:confused: That is, a lot stinking harder with the stiff sidewalls of a dual purpose motorcycle tire.

The bike has the factory spokes wheels, ~8800 miles on it and this is the first tire change for the bike.

I'm watching videos about removal and mounting.

Bike: '15 DL650A "XT" w/ spoked wheels

Tires: Mitas E07 Dakars

Tools:
Motion Pro Bead breaker
Rim protectors
Two additional combination spoon/wrenches to match the size of the rear axle bolt and nut.
3 gallon air compressor
A gallon of tire bead lube
Adventuretech's front axle bolt tool thingy

1st question: is the 8 in the picture the "dot"? That is, is it the lightest spot on the tire that should be mounted by the stem?

2nd question: is there any reason why I shouldn't remove the paper label inside the tire? (Second picture)

3rd question: can I remove the wheel weights and just use the correct amount (7 ounces front, 9 ounces rear) of "Ride-on Tire-Balancer and Sealant" motorcycle formula and expect the tire to be balanced when I ride it? (Third picture)

4: Any other "gotchas" I should watch for?

Thanks in advance for your help.

PS I looked at the 7014 different tire threads and thought, "I'd like to change my tire sometime this weekend, so I'll ask."
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
420 Posts
well, the last 4 or 5 tires I have replaced on my Vee did not have a dot. Hmmm. I'd remove the paper, especially if you are putting RideOn or other sealant/balancer in the tire. I know lots of guys that use the sealant/balancer, I balance my tires with wheel weights. I hear that the Dakars have a stiffer sidewall so they might give you a bit of a harder time spooning tires on and off. Take your time and take small bites at the tire as you are spooning it on or off. Sometimes a third spoon is very handy for keeping the tire on/off where you want it as you are moving to the next bite. I use a C-clamp and two pieces of wood to break the beads, but that Motion Pro two lever bead breaker is on my "I want this" list. Report back on how it works, please. When removing the front wheel from the bike, I loosen (not remove) one of the two brake calipers and find that gives sufficient wiggle room. And, I remember changing bicycle tires while just holding the wheel with one hand or foot. Spooning the motorcycle tire off and on takes some true leverage. I strap the wheel down to a pallet but MAKE SURE the rotors do not contact anything. I hear that rotors bend and then your tire changing costs just skyrocketed. Maybe add a gallon of lemonade or your favorite adult beverage to your list of tools. Break time might come sooner than you initially expect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
725 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: kd70qc

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Don't peel of that paper stamp just yet, it's supposed to be the "dot" you're looking for.

See this thread below;

"Second, most tires have a small dot indicating the lightest point on the tire. I can't find it on the Mitas - is it not there, or is it indicated some other way?

"The stamp mark is inside the tire, no dot outside. Also the Yellow stripe(dakar) left side."
I remembered reading that thread when it was posted but forgot that the tag was the dot. With as much grief as I had getting the front tire on the rim tonight, I'm not sure where the tag is.

I have to agree with Johno_slc in post 28 of that thread. Mounting the front tire was only marginally more fun than a root canal. I had lined up the 8 with the valve stem. Also, I'm having the same problem he had of getting the bead to seal and seat. I'll finagle with it more tomorrow. Thanks for the link.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,106 Posts
Did you go with the "Dakar" version of the E07?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Did you go with the "Dakar" version of the E07?
Yes, and was it a bugger to get on! I was unable to set the bead last night. Any suggestions?

When I pump air into it, it leaks out too quickly to make it set. It was thoroughly lubed when I put it on, and I re-lube it as it dries.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
725 Posts
...... I have to agree with Johno_slc in post 28 of that thread. Mounting the front tire was only marginally more fun than a root canal. I had lined up the 8 with the valve stem. Also, I'm having the same problem he had of getting the bead to seal and seat. I'll finagle with it more tomorrow. Thanks for the link.
Did you go with the "Dakar" version of the E07?
FWIW, I was debating whether or not to go with the Dakar version for an upcoming trip and ended up ordering the Non-Dakar version. They arrived Thursday from Revzilla and I think the sidewall is quite stiff without the extra ply of the Dakar (4 ply vs 3 ply).
After much reading, I've decided not to 'air-down' on the gravel sections of the trip and I think the plain version of the E-07 will be fine.
I won't mount them until about a week before the trip (late May) and hope they won't be too tough to spoon on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
725 Posts
Yes, and was it a bugger to get on! I was unable to set the bead last night. Any suggestions?

When I pump air into it, it leaks out too quickly to make it set. It was thoroughly lubed when I put it on, and I re-lube it as it dries.
I've heard people say to 'warm' tires before mounting by leaving them out in the sun and it makes things easier.
Not sure how warm the sun is where you are right now but here in Mass it's snowing, lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kd70qc

·
Registered
Joined
·
420 Posts
if your tire is not sealing so it won't seat, throw a strap around the tire. If you have a ratchet strap, that's easiest and best. You slightly tighten the strap which helps sit the tire on the bead all around the wheel. Add air and if it still leaks, tighten the strap a bit. Once it begins to hold air and fill, the tire will start to expand so get the strap off. I've also just wrapped a rope around 2-3 times, then gotten a huge screw driver or metal rod, inserted between tire and rope, twisted rod around (perpendicular to the rope) to tighten it up. Hope that helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I've heard people say to 'warm' tires before mounting by leaving them out in the sun and it makes things easier.
Not sure how warm the sun is where you are right now but here in Mass it's snowing, lol.
Sunny but 65. It is about 70 in the garage.

if your tire is not sealing so it won't seat, throw a strap around the tire. If you have a ratchet strap, that's easiest and best. You slightly tighten the strap which helps sit the tire on the bead all around the wheel. Add air and if it still leaks, tighten the strap a bit. Once it begins to hold air and fill, the tire will start to expand so get the strap off. I've also just wrapped a rope around 2-3 times, then gotten a huge screw driver or metal rod, inserted between tire and rope, twisted rod around (perpendicular to the rope) to tighten it up. Hope that helps.
Thanks. I've never seen it done, but have a ratcheting strap around it now. It still eats air faster than I can put it in. As the tire is laying on its side, the bead is loose on the top and bottom near the same area. I'll try tightening the strap more. If that doesn't work I may pull the bead off the rim at that point and put it back on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
Yes, and was it a bugger to get on! I was unable to set the bead last night. Any suggestions?

When I pump air into it, it leaks out too quickly to make it set. It was thoroughly lubed when I put it on, and I re-lube it as it dries.
Get a thin (the thinner the better) piece of plastic like a credit card and jam it between the bead and rim at least an inch deep. With the plastic jammed in this position, drag the plastic all the way around the rim to clear any tiny particles of dirt that may be preventing a seal. Do this on both beads.

This is like curing a fork seal leak and works for the same reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Get a thin (the thinner the better) piece of plastic like a credit card and jam it between the bead and rim at least an inch deep. With the plastic jammed in this position, drag the plastic all the way around the rim to clear any tiny particles of dirt that may be preventing a seal. Do this on both beads.

This is like curing a fork seal leak and works for the same reason.
Thanks, I'll give it a go and let you know how it worked.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Yes, and was it a bugger to get on! I was unable to set the bead last night. Any suggestions?

When I pump air into it, it leaks out too quickly to make it set. It was thoroughly lubed when I put it on, and I re-lube it as it dries.
You probably already did it, but just in case: Remove the valve core.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
You probably already did it, but just in case: Remove the valve core.
Thanks for the reminder. I had removed it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
With the ratchet strap on, stand the tire up & keep tightening the strap until the tire makes contact all the way around. Also, if the sun is out in 'bama, lay that tire in it for an hour on each side before attempting the bead.

And, yes, remove all weights, slap in the Ride-On and ride. I love the stuff, but it is a bit pricey. One of us needs to buy a 5 gallon pail of Ride-On and some 12oz ketchup bottles, sell the stuff for half price & still make a profit.

I found the E07 Dakar much easier that the K60 Scout that preceded it. I have done them by hand, but went with the HF motorcycle tire changer and a NoScuff tire tool:
http://www.no-scufftiretool.com/......much easier and no rim powder coat damage.

I also bought tire specific lube, but find that a garden variety can of spray silicone works better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
833 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Done.

For both the front and rear I had to take the wheel and tire to someone that had a real air compressor. All it took was a lot of air quick. The front had so much lube that it didn't "pop" as the bead set. It just expanded. The bead on the rear was more even all the way around, and even with lube, it made a couple relatively quiet pops. I am going to ride them for a week, then put the ride-on in to see what difference I can notice.

Thanks for everyone's input. Each comment helped.

Photos
Bike without bags.
Clearance from Mitas E07s to factory fender
Chain after being hosed down with silicone spray while idling in 1st, then wiped with an old t-shirt
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Hank122

·
Registered
Joined
·
502 Posts
I looked inside those new Avon AV84 tires and no stickers and no dots. There is an alphanumeric in the one, "E8" and "42" stamped inside the other, but not sure if I should consider either of those as the "dot" for balancing purposes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,437 Posts
I've also just wrapped a rope around 2-3 times, then gotten a huge screw driver or metal rod, inserted between tire and rope, twisted rod around (perpendicular to the rope) to tighten it up.
A Spanish windlass.


About those dots...Not all tire companies use them. If they do, not all tires get the dots.
A red dot shows the stiff spot on the sidewall or the high point if the tire is slightly egg shaped. Put the red dot at the low point on the wheel--if you know where the low point is. Ignore the yellow dot. Wheels are not perfectly round. If you don't know where the low point of the wheel is located, ignore the red dot.

The yellow dot is the light point on the tire. Match this to the heavy point on the wheel at the valve stem. Unless you've matched the red dot to the wheel low point, then ignore the yellow dot. Red takes priority.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,983 Posts
On some tires the bead is really easy to seat. Some, it's just a nightmare. I've learned to make life easier for myself; if I can't seat the bead in the first twenty minutes or so, I throw it in the trunk and drive down to the garage where I have my car serviced and just ask them to seat the bead for me on their compressor. I've literally wasted hours doing the ratchet strap/bounce the tire method with no success.

It's one more reason I'm a fan of the Shinko 705; I can seat the bead with the 12 volt compressor I keep in my car trunk. In fact, I did it once again today. Some will say the greatest sound in the world is a child's laugh, or the waves on a beach; for me, it's the double "ping" of a tire bead successfully being seated and saving me the trouble of a trip to the garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
122 Posts
I'm attempting this real soon with the Shinko's, I've got Napa tire lube, new spoons , motion pro bead breaker, etc..

So take out valve core to seat the bead?
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top