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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Okay, I am not the most anal retentive when it comes to checking the bike but, Yesterday I noticed my kickstand was loose so I tightened it while I was down there I noticed that there was a lot of wet grime. I tightened up the kick stand and said to myself I had better watch how much lube I put on that chain it must have leaked down and caused the bolts to work their way loose. Keep in mind I was doing this in the dark late last night. So today I was doing my weekly checks and tires, clutch fluid, brake fluid both, chain, radiator fluid, and last but not least the oil level, which in 2yrs and 11months and 6 oil changes has never dropped one bit, its gone, NO visible oil in sight glass AT ALL. Now I park in the same spot in the garage every day and the same spot at work every day and believe my there are no oils spots either place. The oil level was fine last Friday possibly a little low (3/4 of sight glass) but I though it was just because of an incline where I was parked after all never lost any before. Where could it have gone is it possible it is leaking out of the clutch rod or front sprocket getting flung down the chain and a small amount leaking down the case to make that wet grime.

Its a DL1000 2003 with about 30K miles any help would be greatly appreciated I am leaving for a 1200 mile trip on 11/10 and this will be the last weekend I can work on it before I go.

After lunch I will have a better idea how much I lost, co-worker is going to get oil for me.
 

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Have you done a lot of higher rpm riding lately? If so, this may be the reason for the oil level drop and if so there is no real issue. Just top it up.

..Tom
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Discussion Starter #4
Well I have only put about 100 miles since I last checked it has been hot and I have been running fast around here lately and mostly 2 up.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The clutch pushrod and transmission output shaft seal are usual suspects. See the link in my previous post.
 

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Was 100 miles ago when you last checked it or when you last changed your oil? Maybe it's been low since you last oil change because you never put enough in, in the first place...?
 

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The clutch pushrod and transmission output shaft seal are usual suspects. See the link in my previous post.
If he had leaks there and lsot as much oil as hethought wouldn't there be oil drips below the bike?

..Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well I am thinking its the clutch seal and or counter shaft seal. I guess I will have to tear it down and see I am liking the foam washer / space idea in wolfs link I wonder what kind of foam to use.

by the way it took about .8 quart to fill to top of sight glass.

100 miles since last checked been about 2000 miles since last oil change and again never lost any between checks let alone changes before.

were are the drips were my first thought but if it is the counter shaft it might be oiling the chain for the most part.
 

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Wet grime is a clue. If the oil is only getting past the seals when the pump is running, there wouldn't be a lot on the ground. 75mph and higher speeds on hot days especially will put a lot of oil out the breather, but not the majority of a sight glass worth in 100 miles unless something is wrong.
 

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What Kinda Bike Is That?
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Wet grime is a clue. If the oil is only getting past the seals when the pump is running, there wouldn't be a lot on the ground. 75mph and higher speeds on hot days especially will put a lot of oil out the breather, but not the majority of a sight glass worth in 100 miles unless something is wrong.
This is correct.

Yet, I am hesitant to speak about the DL-1000.

However, his symptoms are what I found on my DL-650. I did the work myself and here is the thread: http://www.stromtrooper.com/maintenance-how/46706-dl650-how-clutch-push-rod-seal-countershaft-seal.html

I know that the DL-1000 has different steps then the DL-650. I just don't know how different!
 

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I almost posted your link myself but thought it better to find one for the DL1000 as posted in #3. The speedo sensor, clutch slave etc. do make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well know one had the parts in stock for the clutch/countershaft seals so I ordered them off the internet. I don't know if that is it just yet but for under 40.00 for the parts it is worth taking a chance worst case I just bought an insurance policy against those parts never going bad.

I will tear it down tonight and look at it some more.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Took the bike apart and it was definitely the clutch seal. didn't leak when shut down but when running and you work the clutch rod it didn't pour but it was close. so I am taking a chance that all the parts come in in time but I am going to do the clutch and countershaft seal, front (17t) rear (43) sprocket, chain, rear brakes and new rear SS line.

so wish me luck :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well did everything and it all worked out. :hurray:

Thanks black lab and greywolf for the help.

But after getting the bike back together I smelled fuel well I think the bike was just lonely after being in the garage for so long. I could see gas misting out of the space between the cylinders so off with the tank airbox and other stuff and sure enough the little hose between the carbs had gone bad and was spraying gas.

So tear that down fix the hose put a K&N filter in put it all back together and then an FI code tear down check everything jerry rigg the bike to run with tank and airbox off runs great no code put it all back together git and FI code do this 2 more times. Well start looking on line and the code is C28 secondaries find a post about the secondaries moving on start up and go check mine. Find out that mine aren't moving as much as they should. Work them by hand and there is a click in the middle of the operation so after poking around I realize the forward airbox clamp is twisted around to a position that makes the secondary arm hit the screw on the clamp when it is cinched down so long story short half the day wasted by twisting the clamp about 10 degrees around.:headbang:

But other than that the bike went well.

it was the first time doing a chain by myself from beginning to end and I botched that a little. Put the chain on and after using a rivet link realized I made the chain so tight that I could not get it off the sprockets. I could adjust it for tension but not get it off). so I cut that link off, put a small amount of chain in and then used the 2 screw on break off links (I bought those as a just in case thing) to basically add a link to the chain. Now the master links are about 8 links apart.

My first reaction to the screw type link is that they will be good for on the side of the road repair, but you just press the plate on there is no rolling over of the metal pin. So time will tell if they last. I guess I will have tested 2 of them by the time this chain goes bad.:headbang:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Your neighbor thinks your handy
Its funny you say that the neighbor who works on all his landscape equipment for his (rather large) company came over and was amazed that I could tear it down, build it back, and ride it away.

But I am amazed that he can work on those little engines and keep them running most of the time I cant keep my weed whacker going to save my life.:confused:
 

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But I am amazed that he can work on those little engines and keep them running most of the time I cant keep my weed whacker going to save my life.:confused:
Well, it is funny that you mention the weedwacker.

I own a Stihl FS 56 2 cycle weedwacker. I purchased in the mid-1980s. I have not used it in about 8 years. This weekend, I hauled it out of the corner of my garage, and....... replaced the fuel line, fuel filter, air filter, pre-air filter, and spark plug, (spending $22.90 on new parts). It took a little bit of effort to get it going, but I did. And it runs fine. I sold it yesterday to one of my coworkers for $50.

Check your fuel line; they crack over time. Check the inside of your fuel tank; crud gets in there. Most likely, your "H" and "L" settings are off. Close the "L", then back it off a turn before starting the motor. Adjust from there.
 
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