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Discussion Starter #1
How can I determine if chain needs replacment?

I bought an 05 wee with 20,000 miles on the odometer last friday and was curious as to how I can tell if the chain needs replacing. I am not sure if its ever been replaced but the sprockets still look great and are not worn in the least bit. I dont want the chain to break and endup busting the case or damagin other components.

Thanks in advance for the help!!!
 

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If you see red dust, kinks in chain, or at the rear sprocket try and pull the chain away from sprocket...if you can pull 1/8th" away, she's done.
 

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I'm sure there are lots more folks lots more qualified to answer your question, but I would replace mine it is rusty; if the links are kinked; if it can no longer be adjusted; if an o-ring is bad; if it is making lots of noise; if it is wearing the sprockets...
 

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If you see red dust she's done.
I thought this just indicated that it has not been properly maintained and in need of cleaning and lubricating, not necessarily replacement :confused:
 

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All the tips for spotting a dying chain are good, and here's another...

Adjust it to spec: bike on the sidestand, 20 mm to 30 mm (0.8" to 1.2") of slack when you push up on the chain in the middle of it. Be sure the chain is running straight off the rear sprocket; don't trust the marks on the swingarm for alignment. Put a dab of antiseize paste on the axle nut and torque to 58 lbs-ft.

If you need to frequently re-adjust the chain to hold this spec, the chain is wearing rapidly and near death. The measurement along 21 pins (20 links) of chain should be less than 319.4 mm (12.57"), but this is tricky to measure right, and the other methods usually work better.

Unless the previous owner put on new sprockets, the old sprockets are worn. Maybe not enough for you to spot without a new one for comparison, but they are wear items.

A simple rule of thumb for lubing the chain is every other tank of gas, except every tank in the wet or in gritty conditions. There are a dozen or more favorite chain lubes--no consensus favorite.
 

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Put a dab of antiseize paste on the axle nut and torque to 58 lbs-ft.
Maybe my memory is failing, but thought it was supposed to be 82.5 lbs./ft. :confused:
 

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almost every time I get on my bike, I probe at the chain by trying to lift the slack with my toe, I never adjust, probably never gets adjusted between tire swaps and never needs it, but toward the end of its life, it becomes sloppy, very obvious just probing with your toe without even bending over, so you adjust it, 50 mile later, it needs adjustment again , chain is toast



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Once, a beautiful shoe saleswoman said to me when I visited Toronto; "I could know a lot about someone just looking at their shoes"... I think this can be applied to a motorcycle chain too. :mrgreen:

I have seen many clean bikes but with dirty chains, rusted or completely dry ... it´s important not only to maintain it lubricated but also clean, in fact, before lubricating the chain is best to get it cleaned first. Doing this takes time and is not a very nice job (most of the times) but it´s the best to have a healthy and lasting chain.
 

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I thought this just indicated that it has not been properly maintained and in need of cleaning and lubricating, not necessarily replacement :confused:
Loose red dust comes from rust on the pins and bushings. Rust attached on the outside of the links isn't as bad but loose and red means the chain is toast.
 

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Maybe my memory is failing, but thought it was supposed to be 82.5 lbs./ft. :confused:
Yes, but...there have been some instances of the threads galling. The antiseize paste prevents the galling but lowers the friction of the threads. The reduced torque spec (twisting force) provides the same clamping force with the reduced friction.


Red rust dust coming out from under the chain rollers is a sign of fretting corrosion. The asperities (high spots) of the rollers & pins rub, wear, and the fine steel dust from the wear rusts. If you see this, the chain is done.
 

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Maybe my memory is failing, but thought it was supposed to be 82.5 lbs./ft. :confused:
The factory spec is 72.5lb-ft. A number of people have reported the nut and axle galling together when torqued to that spec dry. Anti seize will prevent galling. It will also lubricate the thread, making easier to over torque them. As a result the torque wrench needs a lower value. A common adjustment for lubricated threads is to use 80% of the dry spec. 80% of 72.5 is 58. I have seen many reports of problems with 72.5lb-ft. I have seen zero problem reports using anti seize and 58lb-ft.

The factory spec on a number of fasteners is too high. See http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-v-strom-discussion/105361-service-manual-errors-questionable-statements.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have some red dust on the rollers so I'm ordering another one tonight. Any input on the cheapest place to buy one? It's not much dust and you really have to look for it. Am I ok riding until the new one comes in?
 

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I have some red dust on the rollers so I'm ordering another one tonight. Any input on the cheapest place to buy one? It's not much dust and you really have to look for it. Am I ok riding until the new one comes in?
This NOT something you want to buy cheap on. Purchase here SV Racing Parts | Store from one of the forum sponsers and he'll take good care of you. You should be ok if you oil the crap out of it and order today.
 

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Agree with not going cheap on the chain, there is a difference in more ways than one. Take care of that bad boy and you should get 20K plus no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I just ordered a EK525 SRX so I should be in good shape. Sprockets look like new so I am good there.
 

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I just ordered a EK525 SRX so I should be in good shape. Sprockets look like new so I am good there.
Not trying to spend your money too fast, but I've always replaced the sprockets when I replace the chain. Would be odd if the sprockets have been replaced in 20,000 miles, but not the chain.
 

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Not trying to spend your money too fast, but I've always replaced the sprockets when I replace the chain. Would be odd if the sprockets have been replaced in 20,000 miles, but not the chain.
I just replaced my chain at 16k, and my sprockets still looked like new. I guess there are many factors to wear, but sprockets do not always need to be done with a new chain.
 
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