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Discussion Starter #1
2012 DL1000L2 29k miles.

Hopped on the other morning and rode to work, when I got to the parking lot I heard my radar detector say something about "low voltage, shutting down" so I look over the bar at my voltage meter and it reads 9.7v...then a few seconds later 9.6v then 9.4v...ugh. The meter is hardwired to the battery terminals through a fuse.

Original battery still in it, so I figure 6 years is a good life for the original factory battery and buy a new one at lunch. Voltage meter reads 13.9v (guess the battery wasn't *fully* charged from Batteries+ but should still get me home ~50 miles. It does.

However, rounding the corner to my house I check the voltage meter and it reads 14.3v?!? And sitting in the driveway revving the engine it gets up to and stays at 14.4v.....................so now what? Does this mean that a "dead" battery caused the voltage to read so low while it was running? That doesn't make sense to me, the charging system should still put out over 14 volts I'm guessing. Could this have been a fluke and the problem corrected itself? My battery tender has not switched on even overnight -- although it normally does this red-to-green blinky thing every few minutes, I just see steady green.

Do I still need to test the rectifier/regulator system...pull the cover and see if the magnets have moved...etc..etc? Aaarrgh!
 

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My battery tender has not switched on even overnight -- although it normally does this red-to-green blinky thing every few minutes, I just see steady green.
I have a battery tender that i rotate btwn three batteries, on a decent battery, it always goes red initially for about 30 seconds (or less) and then goes solid green and stays green for as long as i leave the tender on. Never seen it do a red-to-green blinky thing.
 

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Last year after I installed a voltmeter, my electrical system was showing about 13.3 - 13.5v. I started it one day ans move it over to the compressor to check the tires and shut it off. It wouldn't start or even turn over again.

Replaced the battery and now the electrical system consistently shows 14.5 - 14.6v so I'd say it was probably the old battery.
 

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With a bad battery you will never get a true voltage reading and any testing should be done with a fully charged battery.

You need to keep a close eye on things.

I don't know for sure if the 2012 is involved but the 1000 has trouble with the magnets on the flywheel moving, this can make the charge rate fluctuate.
 

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Agree with the other answers. Your current readings look ok. But keep watching carefully to make sure that there is no deterioration of the operating voltage. As long as you get over 14V I would not loose sleep over the charging system.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So thought I'd ride to work again this morning after the new battery. Started up fine, showed 14.1 volts, figured I'm set. Halfway to work I glanced at the meter and it was down to 12.1v and then dropped to 12.0v no matter how high I revved the engine. [email protected] So, it appears that the charging system works while cold, and after it warms up it stops charging. Got home at 11v. Thoughts on this anyone?
 

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I would suspect the stator.

Magnets are encapsulated on these so that won't be an issue.

Regulator/Rectifier problems are rare.
 

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You said the radar detector is hardwired to the battery, but isn't the end at the the detector still a regular male and female plug connection? If so, isn't it possible that it was slightly or momentarily undone and actually there is no problem with the charging system? Just a plug that came loose?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You said the radar detector is hardwired to the battery, but isn't the end at the the detector still a regular male and female plug connection? If so, isn't it possible that it was slightly or momentarily undone and actually there is no problem with the charging system? Just a plug that came loose?
No, the voltage meter is hardwired. The radar detector uses a cigarette plug and I use a large rubber band to hold it in to prevent vibrations from slowly working it out. So it is securely connected at all times. The other end is an RJ11 with a little lock tab so it is also secure.
 

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Did you test the old battery, a bad battery can definitely overcome the weak charging systems in the Strom. If your holding 14+ volts your charging system is functioning and I would just keep an eye on it for the time being.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you test the old battery, a bad battery can definitely overcome the weak charging systems in the Strom. If your holding 14+ volts your charging system is functioning and I would just keep an eye on it for the time being.
I replaced the battery and found out that the charging system works while cold and after about 15-20 minutes it stops charging and the bike just runs on the battery itself.

I'm trying to do the troubleshooting as shown in the service manual, but the connector to the regulator/rectifier is different than pictured in the book and I don't know which leads to use to test. :-(
 

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I replaced the battery and found out that the charging system works while cold and after about 15-20 minutes it stops charging and the bike just runs on the battery itself.

I'm trying to do the troubleshooting as shown in the service manual, but the connector to the regulator/rectifier is different than pictured in the book and I don't know which leads to use to test. :-(
Did you check the updated section at the end of the service manual? There is a section at the end that goes over all the servicing details that are updated on each new model year. The R/R is one of them since it was updated on the K4 and will be with the K4 updates.

Mind you, you can't fully test the R/R, the test in the manual is just a diode test (which may or may not reveal a problem depending on how the R/R failed). If you can verify your stator is putting out the appropriate AC voltage, you may have a flaky R/R. Stators can also die in ways that stop them from working when warm, so test the AC output of the stator while its warm and you know its "not working". I know R/R's are supposedly "rare" to have problems, but my OEM one stopped regulating voltage correctly, letting TOO much go through. So don't rule it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did you check the updated section at the end of the service manual? There is a section at the end that goes over all the servicing details that are updated on each new model year. The R/R is one of them since it was updated on the K4 and will be with the K4 updates.
Thank you for this! Yes, it is the same as the K3 on page 10-15 of the service manual. I did the tests and it shows a bad rectifier...apparently. Still going to test the stator too.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Any chance someone could upload an image of where the generator/stator plug is located on a 2012 DL1000L2? Does it come out behind the oil cooler and go off to the right side of the bike and then up and over to behind the battery? I want to do the resistance/continuity tests before opening everything up...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also, there's rust in one of the screw holes that hold the stator onto the cover, is this something I should worry about? Should I use rust cleaner and then put a dab of grease in each screw hole when I'm installing the new stator?
 

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That's not rust, that is high temperature red threadlocker. Leave it alone.

Do you have a service manual? If yes check what threadlocker is required when you re-assemble the stator.

If someone knows for sure, please respond.
 
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