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Discussion Starter #1
okay, so here is the skinny...

my 07 wee has ~14K miles on her now...

according to the manual i am close to doing a valve check? is this necessary? it seems that many people go through the headache to check them and then they don't need adjustment? besides mechanic tools to disassemble the bike, the only thing i need are a set of feeler gauges to check gap?:confused:

if i am to do this, what else should i do now when the bike is torn apart? should i replace the air filter or spark plugs?

open to suggestions and help? i am planning on doing this work myself as i consider myself a good enough mechanic as i've restored and rebuilt many vehicles in my day, just never dove into a motorcycle engine but i am confident in my abilities...

thanks for all of you for your time and input!

side note, i will be getting new tires, a center stand, and a fenda-extenda within the next month too :hurray:
 

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I had my valves looked at at 16+K miles. $360.oo later they said all was fine. There is more input in the forum on this theme.

Winter storage.. hmmmmm. That too is a well discussed topic. Myself, I have fuel stabalizer in the tank, I'll be getting some Sea-Foam and use that for the oil. Keep chain clean and lubed. I do ride my bike in the winter, cleaning is a must, salt on the roads.
Check your anti-freeze. If you are not going to ride during the winter, have battery on a trickle charger.
 

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Antifreeze and brake fluid are both 2 year fluids. Any DOT4 brake fluid is good. I use either Zerex Asian Vehicle antifreeze or a Japanese auto antifreeze (I use Toyota) for 5 year corrosion protection.

It is smart to check the valve lash. It is probably OK, but if one or more needs to be changed, they'll probably be OK for the rest of the life of the bike. Most of us try to get near the center of the clearance spec. Draining the coolant and removing the radiator makes the front cylinder valve check easier.

As long as the tank is off, take a look at the air filter. I'm not a fan of blowing out an air filter. If it is dirty, junk it. Note that the OEM and HiFlo brand aftermarket air filters are the same for all years, but the '07 and later have a different part number and have the new gasket included ($4 more for the HiFlo). Earlier years required re-using the same gasket (no problem unless you forget it). K&N air filters have their own gasket--no other K&N advantage. If you want to change the spark plug while the tank is off, do it. A set of iridium plugs (four on your '07) will last for the next 100,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the input guys! I forgot about antifreeze and brake fluid. I'll add that to the list. I guess I'll get ready and dig into her this winter/spring time! I don't want to miss out on late spring early summer riding.

I've already cleaned the bike and she is always on a trickle charger.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
okay i think i've got an idea

so i've decided that i'm going to definitely change the brake fluid. and that should be easy enough per following the manual.

since i will be taking the gas tank off i want to do a bunch of maintenance all at once. the plan is to:
check air filter and replace if necessary
change spark plugs
check valve clearance
drain and replace coolant

so now i've got a couple more questions. i want to upgrade the spark plugs to iridium ones, based on what most people do? i am looking for a part number or plugs that people use and like? also i will most likely stick with the factory air filter as i don't see any major benefit of going aftermarket. should i buy an air filter just to have it in case i need? or should wait to see once i get in there? it looks to me like they are $35-40? is that right?

As far as checking the valve clearance, i'm assuming i would use feeler gauges? i haven't read through my service manual yet and i'm sure it's in there, but if anyone has experience i always prefer that.

thank you all for your help!:thumbup:
 

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Don't let the master cylinders go dry when you change the brake fluid. You can let gravity do the job with the brake fluid--fit a piece of plastic tubing over the bleed nipple and let the fluid drain into a container as you refill the master cylinder. Don't let the master cylinders go dry. If any air gets into the guts of the master cylinder it is very tedious to bleed out. Did I mention that you shouldn't let the master cylinders go dry?

Yes, feeler gauges. Metric ones are handier, but inch ones work fine with a bit of translation of the sizes. The rubber gaskets on the valve covers can be reused without problem. Be sure, and double check, that you get them back into the groove when you reinstall them. A dab of RTV gasket sealant on the half-moon parts of the gaskets is a good idea (small dab with none gushing out inside the valve cover). When you're ready to go, with the tank in the propped-up position, test run the engine looking for oil leaks.
 

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Old fluid has water in it. It can cause corrosion or even turn to steam which expands and can effectively keep the brakes on after you release them. I flush mine every two years or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Old fluid has water in it. It can cause corrosion or even turn to steam which expands and can effectively keep the brakes on after you release them. I flush mine every two years or so.
Greywolf. What spark plugs do you have in your bike? Are they the NGK iridium plugs?
 

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Greywolf. What spark plugs do you have in your bike? Are they the NGK iridium plugs?
Yes. They were installed at 17,000 miles and the bike has close to 76,000 miles on it now.
 

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Iridium plugs last significantly longer. That's about it.
 

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And...

Throttle body sync and idle speed check at same interval as valve clearance check.
 
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