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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first post so go easy on me!
I am looking hard at getting a Wee and want to figure if I can afford it with the mods that would be required,

What mod's/farkles are REQUIRED for a pre-2012 Wee for some dirt/gravel roads and 90%+ pavement? ( I am assuming it is cheaper to buy a pre-2012 and make the changes vs. buying a used adventure 2012?)

I would expect a bash plate, engine front and fairing protection, a headlight protector, dirt pegs, a higher windshield (I'm 6'0), bark busters,...

Just for background, I am coming from a demo 2008 KLR that I have put another 35K kms on (20K in one 3.5 month trip to Honduras and back), I am a novice and had a 20 year break in my riding (from 30 -50 yrs old)
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What kind of mileage could I hope to rack up on a Wee (just wondering how many miles is too many for a used bike)

I have seen quite a few signatures mention some kind of after-market front stabilizer and rear shock; is this strongly recommended?

I'm just trying to figure out what I would have to spend to get it more or less right and then figure if its worth the difference in performance I would get? I'm retired and have more time than money!
Thanks!!!
 

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mods

if it has 2 wheels ride it

you do not need to mod the bike

(its a disease)
 

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I would expect a bash plate, engine front and fairing protection, a headlight protector, dirt pegs, a higher windshield (I'm 6'0), bark busters,...

Just for background, I am coming from a demo 2008 KLR that I have put another 35K kms on (20K in one 3.5 month trip to Honduras and back), I am a novice and had a 20 year break in my riding (from 30 -50 yrs old)
...
What kind of mileage could I hope to rack up on a Wee (just wondering how many miles is too many for a used bike)

I have seen quite a few signatures mention some kind of after-market front stabilizer and rear shock; is this strongly recommended?
...
You certainly don't "need" the bash plate, etc. My 2006 has over 202,00 km/125,500 km and never had engine guards, bash plate, etc., especially if you are doing 90% road anyway. (btw, I routinely ride on gravel roads, occasionally on very rough rock trails and only once had a dent in the oil filter.)

One mod that you can do it lower the front of the bike/raise the forks about half an inch. This makes it much more stable in cross winds and has the bonus of making it turn in much nicer in the twisties. After you have done that its free!) feel free to spend money on a fork brace.

I'm 6'2" and the Madstad bracket works fine for me.. with the stock shield in the summer and a Large GIVI screeen in cold weather.

My 2006 has over 202,000 km r 125,500 miles. RCACS I think is over 240,000 km or around 150,000 miles

..Tom
 

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Tires to match the road surfaces
Seat to suit your butt
Windscreen that pleases you
Fork brace is recommended
Springs to suit your loaded riding weight
Ride
Enjoy

Crash bars are recommended protection only if you drop your bike. If you're going to drop it, look up cheap aftermarket mirrors and turn signals. Most engine skid plates are weak and poor protection--some are strong enough. A front fender extender is wise in mud.
 

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There is nothing that would be classified as "REQUIRED" for the riding you are planning to do.

Crash bars are worth the money [because they make it less likely that you will drop the bike..... something to do with Murphy's Law, don't have them and you will drop the bike, have them and you won't drop it :fineprint: ].

A B&B bash plate out of Australia is about the best/toughest one you will get.

As for mileage, the Wee-Stroms [and the Vees for that matter] are renowned for big trouble free miles/km's.
I was trying to find a recent post from a member here who just posted an update on his bike and what little has been done to it [he's on the second time around on the speedo from memory].

There are even some out there with 200,000 to 300,000km+ trouble free.

Mine is an 09 Wee with almost 60,000km on it now and has been totally trouble free and apart from tyres and routine oil changes it had rear pads at around 48,000km- front pads, counter sprocket and chain were done between 53,000 and 55,000km.

I do commuting, touring and dirt with mine [probably 80% tar 20% dirt-some of it mild single track as well].

Did you keep the KLR?
I have an old '87 KLR650 that I use for some trail rides as well.

AS kiwi-outdoors said, farkling/mods is a disease- but it is fun :thumbup:
 

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like the others said nothing is required ride it and see what you want to change. for me gas was the only thing required the rest I just wanted to do
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How about...
ABS, H&B Engine Bars, Amotostuff Skidplate, Pro-Taper ATV HI Bars with Cycra Pro-Bend Handguards & HotGrips, Givi V46 Top Box on Amotostuff Mounting Plate, Scott's Steering Stabilzer, Elka 3-way Rear Shock, Race-Tech Emulators and Springs, Touratech Zega Cases (41/35), gel seat, centre stand, PIAA Horn, 12V outlet, fender extenders, large metal footpegs, gps mount...
can't confirm all this but ...
will when I pick it up next week!! :mrgreen:
2007 with 30,400km

Thanks for the help!!!
PS Some of you have seen more pictures of this bike than I have...
 

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In my case the required mods cost over 3,000 dollars US. In your case, I have no idea. Some guys don't require any.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Even better than I thought!

After a 6 hour train trip that started at 05h00 I picked up the bike yesterday and was surprised how smooth it was. Will have to search the other forums and get info about all the farkles esp. the suspensions and where it should be set for which road conditions.
Thanks again!
 

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For a guy of 220lbs like me, a Corbin saddle and an upgraded suspension was worth every buck a hundred times.

Crash bars, Windscreen and bark busters would be my second idea, after that...a Stebel Nautilus horn.
 

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Just ride

For 10% dirt roads, I'd skip the skidplate for now. But I would consider metal framed bark buster type handguards AND an engine guard (Givi, Motech, etc). The engine guard protects the expensive fairings in a tipover; whereas the barkbusters keep the bike rideable (no broken controls such as levers, throttle, etc). Slow it down coming into the turns off road compared to the KLR. The Wee likes to power out of turns and this is where you catch up. On straights and up hills it is also fairly stable, even more when standing. Keep it mellow on dirt roads and you will be fine. I enjoy higher bars for standing.

Off road, I have ridden aggressively on the Wee and this is the wrong bike for that. Ridden aggressively on dual track or bumpy fireroads you will probably bottom out, requiring skid plates. Further the stock forks are very soft and bottom easily, WHEN ridden aggressively on bumpy dirt terrain. Yes, I re-did my suspension front and rear and it no longer bottoms at all. But you still have vulnerable cast wheels that are tough enough for a mellow pace but will bend on impact at speed. How do I know? Last summer my front wheel bent hitting a rock :headbang: at 60-70mph on a dusty trail (no crash ... that time). Still holds air but that was the last of my "quick" dirt rides on a street bike with poor ground clearance, limited travel, cast wheels, and 450+lbs.

As for tires, this is very personal and depends how aggressive you want to get on and off road. The OEM tires or whatever the used bike has is a starting point. From there you can wear them out and explore other tires choices over time. The Tourance rear is very nice and I mate a Tourance EXP to front which wear out at the same rate and handle on road fantastic. Dirt roads are fine but require confidence and caution. A more dirt worthy combo (probably better if u decide to do 20% dirt) is a TKC80 front tire (gets about 5,000+ miles) and a standard (non-EXP) Tourance rear (will last 6-8,000 miles) is a fine choice that many GS and Strom riders have tried with supposed success. Straight up TKC80s (front and rear) are nice but too expensive as the rears can be toast quickly (1500-2500 miles) if you are aggressive. Alternatively, a Wee on Pilot Road 3s could do dry, hard pack dirt roads but now you are talking serious white knuckles unless at a super cautious pace!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks that's great info. I was on some gravel roads today and where it was soft or deep I was not sure I could keep it upright :yikes: I am on Anakees (front just put on for safety by dealer so about 1K km) but kept with it; standing helped for sure. Glad the handle bars are raised slightly and happy for the wider dirt pegs for standing.
Loved it in the paved, twisty Laurentian Hills near Mont Tremblant where we spent last night.
 

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My must-do list is (*degree of importance):

**** Murph's (preferred) or Rick's Fork Brace - stability
** Sonic Front Springs to match your weight and ride style
**** EBC HH Sintered metallic pads for maximum stopping power
**** Stebel air horn
- Kevin Baker lowering links (drop front fork 3/4" maximum) - better handling and short legs
- crash bars (why not?)
- center stand (why not?)
- tank bag for daily trips
- Bestem top box for groceries and helmet storage in town
- Teflon chain lube - clean and easy to remove
** Rotella T6 synthetic oil - good for wet clutches and a full season of rides
- Metzeler Tourance tires - high mileage performance tread
** Slime fix-it tire kit with minicompressor
- Volt meter

That'll take a while but you'll be significantly safer with the ** mods. Enjoy your ride.
 
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