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Gave the idea of giving it a wash some serious consideration before abandoning that idea and instead settled down to watch Frozen with my little girl.
Great movie! That, and "Sing" are my granddaughters' (5 & 9 yrs) favorite movies still when they're here for a sleepover.
 
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Yesterday:

--Lubed the chain on SO's Wee. Guess what, the "clunk" noises I had been hearing when starting off went away entirely. Shifting seems smoother now too. Chain must have been REALLY dry. I think previous owner had gotten behind on his maintenance, due to having a fleet of bikes and not really enough time to keep up with all of them.

Getting that done was entertaining. She doesn't have a centerstand yet, so I had her ride slowly forward, stopping periodically while I sprayed the chain, in a parking lot.

--Confirmed the left fork seal is in fact leaking. I cleaned it out with a Seal Saver about a week ago. There's a fresh coating of oil down the side of the lower fork tube. Freshly-leaked oil on/around that seal. Dang.

Today:

--Got an estimate and appointment for having the fork seals (and bushings etc) replaced at the one local shop I trust not to screw it up. It's going to save big labor $ (and be easier) to bring in just the fork tubes instead of the whole bike. Now I have to figure out a way to support the bike so I can get the fork tubes off, given the absence of a centerstand. That'll be fun.

Neither of our garages has rafters, so supporting the bike from above is out.

The Wee does have crash bars. However, my jack stands aren't tall enough to rest the crash bars on them, at least no way I can see.

Is there any good way to jack up the bike? The DL650 engine doesn't seem to have the large flat spot on the bottom, that I've used to get the weight off the front of my DL1000. No skid plate on this Wee yet.
 

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Yesterday:



The Wee does have crash bars. However, my jack stands aren't tall enough to rest the crash bars on them, at least no way I can see.

Is there any good way to jack up the bike? The DL650 engine doesn't seem to have the large flat spot on the bottom, that I've used to get the weight off the front of my DL1000. No skid plate on this Wee yet.
I use a small car jack placed under the motor to lift the bike, and support/stabilize the bike from the crash bars with my jack stands which I raise up using bricks.
 
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2018 V-Strom 1K
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Installed an OEM Suzuki center stand, SW Moto Tech crash bars, and a Soupy's lowering link on my newly acquired 2018 DL1000.

This has to be a record with only 80 miles on the odometer - and it's snowing again.
National Cycle V-Stream "touring" windshield arrives tomorrow.
 

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Neither of our garages has rafters, so supporting the bike from above is out.

Use a couple "Eye" bolts into the ceiling trusses and then straps down to the bars.
 

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--It's going to save big labor $ (and be easier) to bring in just the fork tubes instead of the whole bike.
Removing the forks from the bike is the hardest part of the job. Once they're off, if you have the oil, seals / bushings, and tools pre-gathered, it'd only take you about 20 minutes per fork to replace the seals / bushings, fill with oil, measure the air gap, and re-assemble the fork.

Save even more money; DIY! :)

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
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I'm sure it wouldn't be that fast - I've never done the job before and don't have the special tools. Going to leave this one to the pros.

That's after I confirm one more time that the seal is in fact leaking. The dust seals are visibly cracked.

Maybe I'll get really lucky, and can get by with just replacing the dust seals. That, I'm comfortable doing at home as it doesn't seem to require disassembling the fork tube.
 

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I'm sure it wouldn't be that fast - I've never done the job before and don't have the special tools. Going to leave this one to the pros.

That's after I confirm one more time that the seal is in fact leaking. The dust seals are visibly cracked.

Maybe I'll get really lucky, and can get by with just replacing the dust seals. That, I'm comfortable doing at home as it doesn't seem to require disassembling the fork tube.
I really doubt the dust covers being cracked/shot have much to do wth the actual seals leaking. The dust covers keep junk away from the seals which obviously keep the oil from getting away.
If you're not comfortable doing the bushing and seal, then taking the forks off and into a shop as you plan should keep the cost somewhat minimal.
Sometimes you have to get a bit creative using a floor jack and doing some bracing under the the triple clamps to hold it in position if the straps to the ceiling and or an I bolt isn't workable.
 

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The dust seals surely aren't causing oil leakage, but they definitely need replacing. They're simply old and dried out, almost certainly the 2004 factory originals.

Raised the dust seal and ran the Seal Saver around the offending (left) oil seal again. Made sure to get it deep enough in there to fish out any crud. No crud was evident once the Seal Saver came out, just oil. Fairly clean oil, which I suppose is a good sign.

Took the Wee for a short ride. Included some emergency stop drills in a parking lot, to help exercise the forks. Not sure but may have had some slight leakage again. If happening, should become obvious after more miles.

Also, removed left brake caliper to inspect pads and clean grime from previous fork oil dribbles. No fork oil on pads fortunately. Replaced caliper and torqued bolts to spec.
 

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After much reading and considering, have decided the "de-restrictor" DL1000 mod (which defeats the gear position sensor to tell the ECU you're always in 4th) is a Bad Idea and I'm not going to do it.

Need to ride the SO's DL650 some more to test whether the left fork seal is bad.
 

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Replaced the breather filter material on both K5 and K6 Wee. Both needed urgent replacing. I did a quick search in the manual that I have, but I don't seem to locate any suggested service routine for the breather filter. Made a note to check it when airbox is opened, to inspect the air filter condition. The manual suggests an air filter inspection every 6,000 km / 3,500 miles
 

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How important do you think is the choice of replacement material? Foam in my airbox probably needs a swap, but I'm not inclined to wait 2 weeks for an OEM part. The cost for OEM (FILTER,BREATHER 13788-06G01, $9.77 + shipping) isn't actually too bad.
 

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How important do you think is the choice of replacement material? Foam in my airbox probably needs a swap, but I'm not inclined to wait 2 weeks for an OEM part. The cost for OEM (FILTER,BREATHER 13788-06G01, $9.77 + shipping) isn't actually too bad.
Mine was in good condition so I gave it a bath in carb cleaner followed by a thorough hot water rinse and air dry. It came out good as new. I think It would be ok for two or more "baths,"before the foam starts deteriorating, but I agree, as cheap as they are, I'll probably replace it next time I replace the air filter.
 
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Yesterday:

--Lubed the chain on SO's Wee. Guess what, the "clunk" noises I had been hearing when starting off went away entirely. Shifting seems smoother now too. Chain must have been REALLY dry. I think previous owner had gotten behind on his maintenance, due to having a fleet of bikes and not really enough time to keep up with all of them.

Getting that done was entertaining. She doesn't have a centerstand yet, so I had her ride slowly forward, stopping periodically while I sprayed the chain, in a parking lot.

--Confirmed the left fork seal is in fact leaking. I cleaned it out with a Seal Saver about a week ago. There's a fresh coating of oil down the side of the lower fork tube. Freshly-leaked oil on/around that seal. Dang.

Today:

--Got an estimate and appointment for having the fork seals (and bushings etc) replaced at the one local shop I trust not to screw it up. It's going to save big labor $ (and be easier) to bring in just the fork tubes instead of the whole bike. Now I have to figure out a way to support the bike so I can get the fork tubes off, given the absence of a centerstand. That'll be fun.

Neither of our garages has rafters, so supporting the bike from above is out.

The Wee does have crash bars. However, my jack stands aren't tall enough to rest the crash bars on them, at least no way I can see.

Is there any good way to jack up the bike? The DL650 engine doesn't seem to have the large flat spot on the bottom, that I've used to get the weight off the front of my DL1000. No skid plate on this Wee yet.
Use a tall ladder over the front end and ratchet straps to hold it up hooked on to the handle bars.

Sent from my Etch A Sketch
 

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If the breather foam is very dirty, I would think that would prevent crankcase oil from getting in the air box as much. My problem seems to be that oil is getting burned. I don't see any funky exhaust, though I'm not sure what it would look like if in fact oil were being consumed that way

We'll find out when I open the air box.
 

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For the breather filter material, I used an inexpensive fish pond pre filter, as discussed in Breather Tube Foam?. I first soaked the filter in engine oil for few days, as a test, before replacing the original. You may only discover how bad the breather filter is, once you try remove it.
Edit: added pix to show the difference in the material (top is original breather filter)
282501
 

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If the breather foam is very dirty, I would think that would prevent crankcase oil from getting in the air box as much. My problem seems to be that oil is getting burned. I don't see any funky exhaust, though I'm not sure what it would look like if in fact oil were being consumed that way

We'll find out when I open the air box.
I had a little over 16,000mi /25750km when I cleaned mine (first time). It wasn't terribly oily but I cleaned it anyway as long as I had the airbag apart. My gut feeling is, rather than clogging to the point of blocking the breather if it became nearly saturated with crankcase goo, the goo could get sucked into the air filter and even the throttle body "wholesale," and may even start deteriorating the foam to the point where a chunk breaks off.
 
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Givi Airflow windscreen installed during a break in the constant rain. Now to find a good day to give it a test.

Was more of a pain to install than I expected as the bolt holes didn't line up 100% without a little flex induced into the windscreen, but it's on!
 

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I had a little over 16,000mi /25750km when I cleaned mine (first time). It wasn't terribly oily but I cleaned it anyway as long as I had the airbag apart. My gut feeling is, rather than clogging to the point of blocking the breather if it became nearly saturated with crankcase goo, the goo could get sucked into the air filter and even the throttle body "wholesale," and may even start deteriorating the foam to the point where a chunk breaks off.
I had to review how the breather filter actually works to wrap my head around this.

If I understand correctly, the breather filter acts to slow oil vapors pushed out of the crankcase in operation. Ideally, the oil collects in the foam, and condenses into droplets, which then drip back down into the crankcase through the breather tube, perhaps when the bike is parked? Not sure of those details.

This system is much like the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve found in cars. Any combustion gases that get into the crankcase are sucked out by lower pressure (vacuum) within the airbox. From there, they go into the throttle bodies. Any leftover gasoline gets burned. Meanwhile, oil is (in theory) caught by the foam so it can return to the crankcase.

It's an emissions thing, a fuel economy thing (?), and a not-having-to-replace-oil-so-frequently thing.

If my breather foam is no longer doing its job, that might explain why I'm using so much dang oil!

We are supposed to have miserable, snowy and wet weather this weekend. Should be a good time to get in there and see what's what. If there's an oily film on the inside of the airbox, I suppose I have my answer.
 

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Got the plastics removed/loosened. First thing: propped up tank, did a fuel pump flow test. She's still working great - 400 mL in 3 cycles of the engine cutoff switch. Yay!

I still need to test flow after the inline filter.

Fuel tank pulled, air box open. Learned stuff.



When you must pull the fuel tank, usually the fuel pump outlet pipe will drip. Turns out a Dorman vac hose cap, 1/4" size, is a nice tight fit (that's the red thingy).

I used more vacuum caps to protect other fittings that must be disconnected to remove the tank, also as visible reminders to reconnect stuff when I put the tank back on. Example: the tank water drain.



Guess which one is the new filter and which one is the old! Go on, I'll wait. :)

Ugh. Probably should have swapped it sooner. FWIW, that's about 8600 miles on that old filter. Must have done more dirt than I realized.



The breather filter foam as installed.



Good news! The foam is in excellent shape. It came out in one piece. It is still quite pliable and does not shed pieces.

That aside, you may have noticed a couple photos back that the foam doesn't seal against the airbox wall 100%. There's a notable gap at the pointy part. Is it enough to explain my alarmingly high oil usage of late?

I think I'll replace the foam. I'll get material I can cut to size, so that I can deliberately oversize it a bit & get a nice tight seal.
 
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