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Is there a good way to connect ring terminals to bare wire ends, without simply chopping off the ring terminals for a butt splice?

I want to install Oxfords on a 2004 Wee using the factory heated grips connector for power. I have the correct plug with enough wire (left over from my Vee) but the Oxford power supply comes with ring terminals.
Not a perfect solution, but you could use Positaps to connect to the bare wire, and then "tap" into the correct wires from your oxford power supply, and then just electrical tape the *&^% out of the rings to prevent them from touching or connecting to anything. I would go crazy and use liquid electrical tape, surrounded by more electrical tape, further surrounded by some sort of ziptied baggies or a pouch to prevent the tape from rubbing against anything. Not perfect, but if you REALLY want to preserve the ring terminals, this is a KLR worthy way.
 
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Is there a good way to connect ring terminals to bare wire ends, without simply chopping off the ring terminals for a butt splice?

I want to install Oxfords on a 2004 Wee using the factory heated grips connector for power. I have the correct plug with enough wire (left over from my Vee) but the Oxford power supply comes with ring terminals.

Yes, I know you're supposed to wire it directly to the battery. But I don't fully trust the Oxfords' "smart" power module, and would prefer to avoid running the wiring all the way back to battery.

The Wee in question does not have any kind of accessory fuse panel. Therefore the OEM heated grips plug is the only easy source of switched power, afaik.
When I join a terminal to a wire, I "sweat" a dab of solder (like what is done when soldering copper plumbing joints) into the terminal's open end, making a tight, weatherproof connection.
I have Oxford Heaterz on my D'Elle and the auto shutoff cuts power in about three minutes. Handy when stopping for fuel as the grips stay warm. They can also be shut off with the controller. I put an SAE connector on my set so that I can switch between my Battery Tender JR leads without adding another pair of terminals to the battery.
But if you want switched power to them, these connectors work pretty well for solderless splicing. I recommend blue ones, regardless of brand. that's the proper type for 14-16 AWG wire.

282034
 

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Winter projects have begun ... parts have arrived: PowerMadd 475 risers (apparently need a modified allen wrench) and the AdventureTech brake line extension, and the AdventureTech forkbrace. It will be a while before I can ride... still recovering from a record 16" of snow a few days ago.
 
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My old warbeast is partially back together. Checked the adjustment on the secondaries, synched the throttle bodies, and adjusted the new TPS. I doubt there will be a whole lot going on in the garage today, though. 6 degrees outside this morning. Up to a balmy 11 degrees now, which means it's about 15 in the garage. I guess today would be a good day to verify the cold-start feature, eh?
 

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Thinking of sending out my ECU to get flashed. :unsure:

 

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We finished putting Oxford Heaterz on the SO's Wee tonight. Did the clutch side yesterday, throttle side tonight, mounted the control box etc.

While doing that, noticed her left fork seal is leaking and has been for some time. Ugh. Going to have to fix that sooner or later.
 

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We finished putting Oxford Heaterz on the SO's Wee tonight. Did the clutch side yesterday, throttle side tonight, mounted the control box etc.

While doing that, noticed her left fork seal is leaking and has been for some time. Ugh. Going to have to fix that sooner or later.
Re fork seal leak: Try "Seal Saver" or equivalent before spending time and money on seals. Most of the time that will fix seal leaks.

..Tom
 

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Seeing as there was oil (and attracted grime) all down the side of that fork, I'm going to go with an actual leak.

I do have a Seal Saver and gave it a go. Cleaned up the apparent fork oil leak. We'll see.
 

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Watching out for the fork seal leak to dribble more oil down the side of the tube on SO's DL650.

Kicking myself for not servicing the gear position indicator (GPI) when I had the clutch cover open to do a water pump rebuild a couple of summers ago:

running problem | StromTrooper

Had I seen that, I would have cleaned up the GPI. Mine has been erroneously indicating O/D for at least a year or two, and is getting worse recently. No bueno, the ECU does need to know what gear is being used.

I wouldn't mind the extra work of draining the coolant to remove the clutch cover so I can get at the GPI. But it would mean using up a clutch cover gasket. I have one standing by, but I was planning to use it when I do a Werks clutch basket upgrade. The $15 for an extra gasket doesn't bother me, so maybe I'll use the one I have & order another one same time I pay for the Werks package.
 

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Had over a 100 miles since the valve adjust, so I checked the coolent level at the reservoir and it was a bit under the low mark. Took 6 ozs. and a half hour to get it apart enough to raise the tank to fill. Another 1/2 hr. to reassemble. All for a 2 min. job.
 

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I wouldn't mind the extra work of draining the coolant to remove the clutch cover so I can get at the GPI. But it would mean using up a clutch cover gasket. I have one standing by, but I was planning to use it when I do a Werks clutch basket upgrade. The $15 for an extra gasket doesn't bother me, so maybe I'll use the one I have & order another one same time I pay for the Werks package.
If it's a fairly new gasket in there (sounds like it is), you should be able to reuse it. You certainly wouldn't be the first to do so. Also, the O/D indicator does not affect the ECU's reading of anything (that I am aware of). It's just a signal sent to the dash display. Mine has been twitchy for nigh on 10 years and 150000 kms. Same as the common fuel gauge top bar glitch.
 

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If it's a fairly new gasket in there (sounds like it is), you should be able to reuse it. You certainly wouldn't be the first to do so. Also, the O/D indicator does not affect the ECU's reading of anything (that I am aware of). It's just a signal sent to the dash display. Mine has been twitchy for nigh on 10 years and 150000 kms. Same as the common fuel gauge top bar glitch.
The problem is not actually the dash O/D indicator, the problem is that the gear position sensor (GPS, ha) may not read properly in any case, so the ECU doesn't have a reliable indication I'm in 4th, etc. See post #9 in the "running issues" thread linked above.

I had a hint of this the other day. O/D indicator was coming on when I was in 1st and 2nd, just cruising around the neighborhood. I'm not sure what exactly caused that. Didn't happen yesterday. "Normally" the O/D light will flicker in 4th or 5th gear, but usually settles down and stays on when I have been in 6th for a minute or so.

I may install a de-restrictor, so that all gears are treated like 4th & the GPS reading doesn't matter. I feel comfortable enough with the bike and have been riding long enough not to do anything too stupid, so that I don't get into trouble with full engine power in 5th and 6th. I think.

The clutch cover gasket has been on there about 2 years, since that one time I rebuilt my water pump unnecessarily. I have had stator cover gaskets leak ever so slightly when I tried to re-use them, so I'm more or less resigned to replacing the clutch side one every stinkin' time. We'll see. I'm not in a huge hurry to drain the coolant so I can open the clutch side (ugh).

Meanwhile: recently I bought some used DL1000 wheels off a forum member. I am happy to report that the wheels appear undamaged, apart from the usual scratches from hamfisted tire changes (doubtless inflicted by the owner before the gentleman from whom I purchased the wheels).

Not only that, but I was able to locate a pair of used OEM brake rotors on eBay, as well as the special screws to secure them on the wheels, complete with factory thread locker. Installed those last night:



The rotors seem to be straight, and have plenty of "meat" left. About 4.8-4.9mm thickness, against a "replace me" spec of 4.5mm.

Yes, I know the tire has uneven wear and is basically trash. My bad for not looking more closely at the photos before I bought the wheels. All the same, the tire holds air just fine and will do, should I suddenly need a replacement front wheel.

I'll probably swap the pictured tire with a barely-used Dunlop Trailmax Mission I have sitting around (long story).
 

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My relatively newly aquired (it's northern MN and cold/snow covered so I haven't even rode ít) 650 Strom came with the huge OEM trunk. Since I have the GoldWing for serious traveling the Wee is for fun on gravel back roads, forestry roads and such. I have been looking at tank and/or tail bags. Was ready to pull trigger on a selection when I remembered I had bought a large misc lot of stuff on an auction of a local dealer (SkiDoo, CanAm, Honda, Yammy, Suzuki, Polaris) when they moved into their new building. They got rid of a ton of old stock and special order things that were never picked up. Some of the stuff I have sold, other things were for the Wing or other use. Anyways, among the stuff was a pair of OEM CanAm Spyder tank and rear rack bags new with tags. Went and dugbthem out to see if they might work on the V. Turns out that by just changing/adding some straps and Velcro they should be great and are very nice bags.
I'm pretty happy I remembered I had them before buying more stuff. I need to work on a clearance of that stuff this spring...
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Pics of the mounted/alterations to follow when installed.
 

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Ok, since it's cold out and not supposed to get even above -0*F for the next week (or more) around here where I call home, today was a chance to get out in the garage and get the bags fit on the Wee after my wife (who is a whizz with a sewing machine-this wasn't even a 5minute project) added and altered a few straps.
I think they will work great in three months when the snow goes away and I can ride this thing. At least I stand a chance getting this one out as it's in the real garage. The poor Wing is hostage in the big storage shed across the yard where the snow lasts a long time vs the driveway.
Sorry about the boring ramble, but it's too cold to ride the sleds and I'm a bit stoked on how well the Spyder bags worked out. And I'm rather frugal (cheap), so that made it even better.
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Gave the idea of giving it a wash some serious consideration before abandoning that idea and instead settled down to watch Frozen with my little girl.
 
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