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Yesterday afternoon I used a small straw attached to a bottle of heavy hold hairspray to attempt to affix my throttle side Oxford heated grip which was loose. From the experience of others, I realize that it might not hold.

It was the quickest easiest way for what I have on hand. I will go with a strong glue if it breaks free again. Might work. I grew up in the 80's.

278195
 

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Correct, hairspray will hold the Oxfords in place for about 5 minutes once you use the heat.

JB Weld did the trick throttle-side, possibly because I was gluing plastic to other plastic.

On clutch side (plastic on metal), the JB gave up after around a year. Even with the handlebar metal thoroughly cleaned & roughed up a bit with sandpaper beforehand.

I replaced the left JB with the adhesive included with the Oxfords. Nasty stuff, but I managed not to get it everywhere & it's holding so far.
 

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How were they to mount? I have a set waiting to go, the sidewalk seems stiffer then the Shinko 705’s.
They are as stiff as a "sidewalk";) at room temperature or cooler. Quite a bit moreso than a tube type. I installed mine this spring in my 58ºF garage. I highly recommend rim protectors. If possible, try to warm the new tires as hot as you can while unmounting the old tires. We had a rather cold, wet spring here, with limited sunshine to warm the tires, so I set an old hair drier on low in the carcass for about 15 minutes and gave it a shot of high for a couple minutes which helped slightly. I used four tire irons total: three to pry and hold the bead and a 24" one to work the bead in while moving the nearest iron along behind.
Great tires- worth the effort!

EDIT: not enough coffee yet this morning... I have the Dunlop Trailmax tires not the Trailsmarts. But pre warming any brand of tire before mounting will help.
 

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Took the Chicom levers off and replaced with the OEMs. Much better feel. Not crazy about the length, but they'll work.
 

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Front fork seals replaced during the week
Yesterday ride was nice and stable
love how it feels while breaking
Only one fork was leaking but did both anyway

I bought the bike used (4K miles) I guess the first owner was pretty rough, as I already had to replace the steering bearings and now the seals
 

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Front fork seals replaced during the week
Yesterday ride was nice and stable
love how it feels while breaking
Only one fork was leaking but did both anyway

I bought the bike used (4K miles) I guess the first owner was pretty rough, as I already had to replace the steering bearings and now the seals
Put some fork boots on and say goodbye to seal problems. Fork oil stays so much cleaner too.
I used Rancho's and trimmed them to Graywolfs specs.
 
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Put some fork boots on and say goodbye to seal problems. Fork oil stays so much cleaner too.
I used Rancho's and trimmed them to Graywolfs specs.
that sounds like a great idea, the forks oil I think was darker than used engine oil
what do you mean by graywolfs specs ?
Thanks
 

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I took off the generator cover to check magnets were all in place, have a vibration, and was really hoping that I would find a magnet or two had come unglued, but no such luck.
 

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I took off the generator cover to check magnets were all in place, have a vibration, and was really hoping that I would find a magnet or two had come unglued, but no such luck.
This may or may not be helpful, but a couple of years ago, I found that my stator mounting screws were a bit loose.

What alerted me to this was a strange buzzing/rattling sound I could hear at idle.

It seemed to go away at speed, but maybe it was just covered up by the louder engine noise.

I have a recording of the sound somewhere if you'd like to hear it.

After ruling out all other possible causes, I opened the stator cover. The 3 mounting screws were backed out enough that the stator could rattle. Fortunately, it wasn't loose enough to collide with the rotor magnets, and power generation wasn't affected.

Not sure how that happened. I had last opened the stator cover for a stator swap about 9-10 months prior. When installing the rewound stator back then, I thought I tightened the 3 mounting screws enough. Apparently not though, because here they were loose, several thousand miles later.

I applied blue Loctite to and re-tightened the 3 screws. It's 2 years later and they haven't come loose again.
 

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Installed a new-to-me front wheel, and EBC HH front brake pads today. FINALLY got to go riding again, after over a month owning a unicycle.

I like the feel of the EBC pads.
 

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Riding to work a couple days ago I stopped for a school bus and the bike stalled. Started right back up, but started its old missing and no power trick. Opened and closed the throttle several time to see if it was the common TPS issue, no change. Acts just like the bad fuel pump that fixed it last time. Replaced with a pre-modded one off the parts bike that time. When I started on Wednesday morning, the day it acted up, the fuel pump sounded "different" when it primed. And it just sounds off to me now every time I start.

So today is fixit day...again. First step is strip it down. Going to replace the TPS with my used, in stock, one from the parts bike and see if that is the answer. If not, I modded the bad pump I took off in August and will throw that in and see what happens. After that, who knows?

I love this bike and have it set up the pretty well, but the unreliability is starting to get into my head. I second guess just taking off for a few hundred mile trip or more. Maybe its time for a change...
 
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Well, fuel pump and TPS were not the issue. I had a dead Irridium plug in the rear cylinder. 11,500 miles. I thought these things were supposed to last 100,000 miles? Glad I had a spare. Have to order up a couple more. Went for a short spin. All seems good. Forgot the skid plate was just hanging from the back bolts...ooops!

Time will tell. At least it runs well enough to sell it!
 
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