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Farkle Purchasing System
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Re: forks. We talked about doing emulators but decided they weren't needed for my type of riding. Why did you want them?
 

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I have mounted a Rollie Small Bag on the back end of each side Pannier......trying to keep the weight down low (instead of laying/straping the Rollie on top of the sidecase like many folks do). But wasn't satisfied with the way the Rollie bag kinda "slumped" even with the straps tightened. Reminded me of two giant bossoms without a bra to support (maybe not a bad thing in all circumstances :unsure: ). So, I made a little "perch" for the bag to sit on, along with it being strapped down..... I like the way it sits now. The red item is to (hopefully) keep any stray HOT exhaust gases off the rubber Rollie bags.....to prevent a meltdown.
I really suprise myself sometimes.........at my own stupidity. The Rollie bags have been on the bike for 6-9 months now, tho not tested on a bike trip yet. I added the two 4"x4" Tool-tube type containers a few months ago. I "almost" screwed up by not allowing enough space between the top of the Rollie Bag and the new 4"x4" tube, to allow insertion/removal of the items I plan on putting in the Rollie Bags!!! But, as the way it sits now, I still can.......catastrophe avoided. I plan on carrying "soft materials" in the Rollie bags......clothes, cooling vest, gloves, socks, etc. which makes getting in and out of the Rollie bags acceptable. And, as a last resort, I could always loosen the Rollie straps and tilt it sideways to get large items in/out......but defeats the purpose of being a "quick access" container.

Left side bag "unsupported"..............

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New "perch" for the right side bag................also showing D-rings for the Rollie Straps to thread thru.

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Not today, but over the last few days I've bought a new (used) front rim, dismounted / mounted tire from old, bent rim to new rim, balanced both front and rear wheels with a balancer borrowed from @Karlos, and found that removing my fork brace has freed up my forks from binding...i now have correctly functioning forks!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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Not today, but over the last few days I've bought a new (used) front rim, dismounted / mounted tire from old, bent rim to new rim, balanced both front and rear wheels with a balancer borrowed from @Karlos, and found that removing my fork brace has freed up my forks from binding...i now have correctly functioning forks!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Was the fork brace pushing the tubes away or towards each other?
 

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Had to replace 1 foglight. Bracket gave in to fatigue(Mounted to crashbar) after 70-80K. $30 for a new pair.
 

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Installed a wind deflector (recommended by @V-Tom).
Added a larger pocket of calm air, very nice!
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CDN version

US version
 

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Re: forks. We talked about doing emulators but decided they weren't needed for my type of riding. Why did you want them?
Honestly, I felt the stock fork set-up was totally acceptable, but many folks I ride with who know more about bike mechanics and suspension settings than I ever will told me to take my bike to this shop and let them do whatever they felt was necessary to get my bike suited to my style. In these parts they are a very well known shop and very honest. They asked me how I ride and what I use my bike for and took a bunch of different measurements and settings for my weight and frame. I commute daily on it, do long distance touring and ride it very hard in the corners on spirited rides. I had some money burning a hole in my pocket and since I've never had an upgraded suspension before, I wanted to try it out and see how it feels.

On their website they specifically state about emulators: For riders of both vintage and lower cost motorcycles that aren’t outfitted with cartridge forks, damper rod forks are the norm. The Race Tech gold valve emulator is a drop-in solution that sits on top of the damper rod and gives us the ability to custom ‘valve’ the fork. Still not externally adjustable it does not have the attraction and versatility of a replacement Ohlins or K-Tech cartridge, but it allows us to set the fork up very well on the inside. At a fraction of the cost of a replacement cartridge it is an option that will yield a good result.

Here's a video from Racetech too if that helps anyone:

I didn't complain about it, but there was a significant amount of diving during hard braking and the front wheel tracking in the corners when pushing it was pretty mediocre. I just didn't notice it before because it's all I knew. Now because they also changed the springs and oil, I can't pinpoint exactly how the emulators have affected the ride, but the ride is much smoother. In fast sweepers I can corner much quicker than before yet still have far greater front end stability. On tighter technical roads, I can brake much deeper into the turn and brake harder and yet there is zero dive. They also bled the brakes too so I'm sure it has something to do with that as well.

One thing that will take some getting used to is that the bike feels so planted on the pavement that it feels heavier in the corners and take s bit more effort to flick from side to side in 'S' turns. I suppose I will upgrade the front brakes a touch since I've heard the OEM's ones are not great for hard riding - maybe braided lines will be enough. I gotta say that it rides amazing now - can't even imagine what the higher end bikes must feel like!
 

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Installed my Sit & Fly tonight:

Took a little under a month to arrive and finally installed tonight. Had to futz with it a bit to install with my pillion rack, but it's in place, now. Made for a tight fit where the rear underseat cushions drop below the plastics and down to the frame -- had to sit on it to get the latch to catch. Heavy rain tonight, so will have to defer a test ride. Feels good sitting on it, though. It's thicker / cushier than I expected and if it provides similar airflow to the Beadrider, I'll be sold!

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Well, I removed the BackOff headlight modulator. There IS a bit of a story to this - several bits really. I will say before David gets a chance to remind me yet AGAIN 😁 that I should have gone with a Neutrino Black Box instead of old school relays.

So, the modulator was not supposed to be LED compatible. It will work - maybe due to the ~50 watts total for 2 LED bulbs being almost enough (nearly the same as a single halogen H4). However, it doesn't work exactly as designed. Instead of modulating at maybe a 20%-80% range, I think it is actually doing an On-Off-On-Off operation (think non-dimmable LEDs). This makes it flashing rather than modulating which is technically illegal although I have not had a second look from popo. I am guessing at all this, but it is logical to me.

Another thing that was happening was the headlights cutting out while cranking the engine to start. On the 2002-2003 this is not SOP. I think it may be that the starter was not leaving enough voltage on tap for the LED headlight bulbs and, since they don't dim, they just don't light until the engine is running and voltage is restored to the bulbs. I don't mind this at all, BUT I discovered they don't always come back on at all or come back on steady, not modulating. Totally random, but enough to make me check if the lights are on after starting (when I remember). If they are not on I simply toggle to high beam and everything instantly returns to normal. I put this down to the modulator/LED incompatibility, but I won't know for sure until I have ridden some now that it is removed.

Now, because the headlight modulator was the dual H4 version, it had the 2 H4 headlight plugs. One original H4 plug connected to the modulator to power it, the second original plug was unused and covered up back out of the way. When I put in the old school relays both original plugs were no longer used. I had installed a new H4 plug to connect the modulator to the relay harness I made. So, last night I connected a second H4 plug to the relay harness. Both originals are now unused.

I also put a couple of wires in place for an On-Off switch for the driving lights and tied them out of the way until I want to use them. Right now they just go on and off with the high beams. Now that the modulator has been removed I feel a bit naked and afraid at the front with just a single point of light. I think I may trigger the driving light relay with an accessory power source through a switch so I can have a light triangle on low or high beam. So, next job will be to make a switch mounting plate or box to put beside the left switch pod. Still thinking about that.
 
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This morning I received my box of happiness from CosmoMoto.
I'm in Canada, so my local options are limited, the prices are high, and if I buy from the US I get slaughtered on the dollar, on the shipping, and who knows what might happen with customs.
Anyway, I fired a message off to Cosmo via EBay, and asked some questions, one of them being about shipping. They replied FAST, and answered everything, plus directed me to buy off their website where the prices would be better, and supplied a 10% coupon code...and, explained I'd pay the shipping on the biggest item (the skidplate).
I ordered their skidplate, center stand, footpeg lowering kit, fork brace, and radiator guard. All said and done, 389.39 Euros ($604.31 CAD or $444.95 USD).
Fortnine is usually my go-to for bike parts, but they have 1 skid plate for my 2005 (the AltRider) and it's $470 plus tax. So that's $540 CAD just for a skidplate. Eesh....
I ordered my stuff at around 10pm, and by 3am I had an email with a shipment confirmation and a tracking number. Well done....
Unfortunately, DHL didn't set any records...they took several days to actually pick it up, but once it started moving, it rolled along pretty good. I can't fault CosmoMoto in any way....the shipping was well-priced, they had it ready to go right quick, and I opted for the cheap shipping option.
Everything arrived this morning, well packaged and with all the items and hardware present and accounted for.

I'm absolutely 100% happy with the build quality and fit-n-finish of everything...finish is good, clean cuts and stuff, hardware is of good quality, and as a nice coincidence (or planned, not sure) any of the allen head fasteners included were covered by the 4 allen keys that I carry with the bike. (So no need to add to my tool kit due to accessories.) The best part is, it all fit...no drilling, bending, tweaking...it just bolted on with no kicking and screaming.

The only snag I ran into is the lowering kit that the original owner put on the Wee. It has 3 positions, and it's on the highest of the 3 now. The issue is that the links have 2 more holes that hang below the hole being used. When I went to install the sidestand brackets, the extra link hanging off the end was in the way. Since I'm never going to lower it any further, a cut-off wheel on the Dremel took care of the extra 2 holes at the end of each link. It would have fit perfectly with the factory links. Not Cosmo's fault at all, but it was worth mentioning.

So, the forks are stiffened up, the footpegs and controls are at a more comfortable spot, I have a center stand, and good engine/radiator/exhaust protection (for the riding I do).
Absolutely 100% happy with Cosmo's products, pricing, customer service. In these days where you start to expect bad service, it's a nice surprise. And the farkles look great!!
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New fork oil, slider bushing and seals. used 140mm air gap. I did it on general principle at 25,000 miles.
Cranked the rear rebound dampening to essentially max on my dying shock.
Feels new again.
 

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Nothing exciting, did the first oil & filter change at 500 mi.
OEM filter and Ecstar 10w-40 dino.
Plan is to change it again at 1000 with Ecstar synthetic and then change it once annually or 4K miles thereafter.
The allen bolts holding on the factory plastic engine guard were ridiculously tight, almost stripped one.
Could have left it on, but got on a mission to remove it and reinstall with more sane torque.
Other than that, uneventful, no shavings in the oil or on the drain plug.
 

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I installed an OEM center stand. I hate springs! What a PITA, but it's on now.

And the previous owner lowered the bike, but he had adjustable links put in, so I was able to put it back up easy enough.

And I installed the brackets for my Givi side cases. I was very pleased with the quality of the rack and the bags. Installation was a little fiddly but they went on without drama.

Then I replaced my brake fluid. And found out I needed to nearly remove the Givi rack again so I could remove the rear rack so I could take off the side panel and so I could get at the rear brake master cylinder. Drat. What a PITA again, but having done it once the second time was easier.

My front brake lever is still soft as heck. I hate it. I have it tied back onto the grip overnight (I know, that doesn't work. But nothing to lose), I'll attack it again in the morning.

After changing out the lock on the Givi top box so key matches the side cases, it doesn't close tightly anymore. Drat again.. I'll look at that again tomorrow too. It's so friggen hot and humid here, I needed to get out of the garage and into the air conditioning.
 

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Did chain and sprockets got 15k out of the stock set. Got these from sprocketcenter.com. I also swapped out my chain adjuster bolts with a 10mm head bolt instead of the stick Allen head bolt. Really only swapped the bolts because I wanted to and it makes adjusting the chain so much better no more worry of stripping the Allen out wheel on the road.
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The hex head bolt swap for the Allens is a great idea!. I'll do that to mine at the next adjustment. Just curious, did you stay with 15/47 sprockets?
 

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Wow. You really got your money's worth out of those sprockets! Especially front.

DL1000 chain tension adjustment is totally different, but I've not hesitated to swap a few fasteners when I didn't like Suzuki's choice. For example, stainless hex drive screws instead of Philips (or whatever that DIN standard is that replaced JIS, I'm not having that discussion again) to secure the swingarm chain guard when the originals fell off.
 

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[after bleeding] My front brake lever is still soft as heck. I hate it. I have it tied back onto the grip overnight (I know, that doesn't work. But nothing to lose), I'll attack it again in the morning.
Heh, it's like black magic. This morning the front brake lever is nice and firm. Not sure why that works, pretty sure it shouldn't, but at any rate now I can call that job done and move on :)
 
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