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I've been looking at one of these chain oilers. Give it a twist at each fill up.
GIDBII Oiler
 
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Yup. I started looking at Loobman and emerged out of the rabbit hole with this.
 
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Neat. I've been pushed more toward some kind of easy-oiler system by my (no longer so new) chain having a recommended 300-mile lube interval.

That's about 2 tanks of gas. Not that often when riding local, but happens fast on trips.

IIRC the Loobman also requires manual operation - a squeeze. The idea is you give it one whenever you stop for gas or whatever, to keep the flow going.

It looks like this fancier one is similar, which is fine. Not a big deal to give it a twist when getting gas, as you say.

Either way, I'd mount it somewhere near the back of the bike. I already have way too many accessories up front.

Please do let us know how the Gidibii oiler works out.
 

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Yesterday I took the Trax luggage off my bike and re-tested the waterproofing. Water had been getting in, so I used a hammer (not very delicately) to forcefully close any visible gaps around the corners into the foam corner protecter. Then scraped out the old silicone I had squeezed in there and put afresh seal of silicone on all seals. It is much much much better now. I don't think it's back to "waterproof", but I filled the case about halfway with water in the bathtub, closed it, and rotated it slowly in my arms, and there were very slight leaks in one or two of the corners instead of a significant leak. So we'll see how it looks after the first few rainfalls.
 
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What I found is that if you want to fill the reservoir, you can't pop it out of the holder to fill it on the bench. Reason is the oil line at the bottom which runs through a hole in the holder, and I've even got that oil line ziptied to the reservoir.

So instead I pop the breather connector at the top off, and with the extension nozzle on the oil bottle, fill it with the reservoir on the bike. Fortunately I have just enough space for that between the frame member and the fairing. And I found that I only need to fill the reservoir at the 6000 km service, and more often than not the fairing is then off anyway.
I allowed enough slack in the hoses that I can lift it out of the holder to fill it without disconnecting either hose. It still needs to be filled on the bike, but there's plenty of room and I can easily access the stopper on the side to do it. I only need to take the seat off to get to it. If it only needs filling every six thousand it's gonna take ma a looooong time to get through the amount of oil I have!
 

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Installed a Vizi-Tec brake light modulator. Quite pricey, but plug and play, no cutting or piercing stock wiring. Also I think it's a bit "smarter"/more configurable than other modulators. I don't ride at night, so I programmed it for more aggressive flash behavior. Also got the extra harness so I can connect the modulator to the Signal Dynamics LED license plate holder I have coming from AdventureTech. The license LEDs will modulate with the taillight. Optionally you can have Vizi-Tec provide the non-modulated output to the harness as well. I kind of wish I had requested that (no extra charge IIRC) in case having the taillight and brake light both flashing is too much, but we'll see.
 

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Arguably pointless and stupid modification on the way: this morning I ordered

--Purolator PL14610 oil filter

--Another jug of Rotella T6

--Hanson 53212 (15/32" screw extractor)*

--California Scientific oil filter adapter type "B"

tl;dr: the CalSci oil filter adapter replaces the one built into the 2007 DL1000 engine. It lets you use a wider variety of oil filters than the stock fitting, to include the PL14610, which apparently is one of the best oil filters available (though not all that expensive).


* the Hanson tool is for elegantly extracting the Suzuki OFA (with silly M20x1.0 threads) so you can replace it with the CalSci OFA using more-standdard M20x1.5 threads. You can also use a pipe wrench for the same job, but I prefer not to mar/wreck OEM parts when possible. You never know when you might need them again.
 

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I changed out the brake pads I got from Richland Rich front and rear. Haven't had a chance to go break them in yet.
The brakes should be mo bettah now though.
 

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I changed out the brake pads I got from Richland Rich front and rear. Haven't had a chance to go break them in yet.
The brakes should be mo bettah now though.
Don't overdo the bedding in. Lots of guys overheat them doing that and end up with glazed pads. Those days of hard bedding in were back when we bought Ferrodo DS-11's for track days in our sports cars.
 

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I must fairly easy on the brakes most of the time since these have lasted 10's of thousands of miles and many years.
They were not down to the backing but i thought, What the hey. Do it. I'll see how these wear. Former were Suzuki pads. The new ones are Galfer semi metallic.
I just want to be sure that I have brakes when i pull the lever.
Had a friend that ended up in a wheel chair when he tried the throttle before the brakes testing an unknown bike.
 

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Same here, still had the stock front pads about 53k miles (~30k of those my miles). Or, possibly a PO had replaced with OEM pads.
 

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I read the manual. It pointed out that the seat comes off with a key, and that the windshield was adjustable, and how to use that hidden button on the left side to manage the speedo head. That was all good stuff. It also told me I should shift into 6th at 45 mph. I don't believe it.

Then I ordered some hard bags and a windshield extender and some stuff to run power to my phone by the bars, and made a list of a bunch of other stuff to buy for it.

I also rode it a bit. I enjoyed that.
 
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