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:ROFLMAO: David, I understand relays, not Neutrino. I know it has black magic and smoke in it, but not how it works.

Cheers,
Glenn
It's actually way easier than relays. and tidier because you don't have to find place for the relays. and wiresgo directly from horn or lights to NBB. therefor fewer and tidier boxes. And it's fairly easy to work. Basically an app.
 

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Re: Low seat

So I picked up this 2005 DL650 from a rider who used dogbones to lower the seat one inch. I felt the bike was still too tall for me especially with a full tank of gas. I ended up using a naked seat pan which I painted black. I also removed the rubber spacers between the seat pan and the frame. I believe that this is the lowest seat on a 650 ever. I was flat footed when in the saddle, but my right foot would catch on the left hand grip of the luggage rack so I took that off and now have a low seat bike that I can easily get on and off. I'm looking for someone to cover the seat pan with a minimum of foam so I can keep the lowest seat, but look less junkyard.
 

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Removed the Clutch Basket from my 06 DL1000 Saturday, just finished packing it up and its heading for Texas for a Werks spa treatment. I'm looking forward to doing a test ride in about 3 1/2 months if the snow is gone. Plan to pull the stator cover off to check magnets although my voltage OK running around 14.5v , will probably do the JB Weld bridge as a precaution.
 

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Installed Adventure Tech mirror extenders and their larger side stand foot for my ‘19 DL1000 late last night. Very impressed with the difference the mirror extenders make...got to get a commute in with them today.
 

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Regarding my post #3638, plexiglas covers over the headlight rock guard...........Fail!!!!!! Not ashamed to admit it. Got the Wee all back together last night, took it out for a spin this evening. With the NEW LED headlamps installed, the plexiglas covers REFLECT white light back into the GIVI windshield......enough to where I cannot see thru the reflected areas. So, off come the plastic covers.
 

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I finished the new wiring at the BACK end of the bike today - aux fusebox and relays - apart from putting in the fuses and fusebox cover, of course. I did power it up to check that it works, and it does. I tried to do a tidy job of it with wire routing, taping and running the wire loom to the front. Next is to connect the wires to the new H4 plug and connect to the Back Off modulator. Oh yeah, the EB heated grip adapter plug came from a fellow Trooper a while ago so I'll get that connected for the USB & 12V power outlets so that's done properly. It's already in place and routed, just needs connecting.

The next to last job will be to check the headlight wires at the troublesome connector behind the front fairing and open, check and clean the left switch pod. I suspect my Low-High beam switching delay is in there.

The LAST job will be to install the new LED headlight bulbs.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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OK.......my Flame-Proof suit is on, I'm ready. How about another "airbox mod"...........

Fact: the DL1000 and DL650 first generations share identical airbox lids.....
Fact: the inlet hole sizes in the front of the DL1000 and DL650 airbox lids are identical......
Fact: the DL650 snorkle is smaller in width & height than the DL1000.....and protrudes further inside the airbox.......
Fact: the engines are very much different in displacement and injector sizes........
My Assumption: the shape of the airbox on both models is dictated by the tank and surrounding physical constraints.....it is NOT an "engineered item for optimum flow by Suzuki Engineers". They had to work within the constraints they were given.
Fact: my bike has never been on a Dyno..........and most likely never will be.
My assumption: any increased airflow and/or power and/or gas milage.........as well as any decreases........cannot be quantified by the mod I performed. Any benefits from this mod are strictly in my mind, where they shall remain.......

The Mod: swap the larger DL1000 snorkle in place of the smaller DL650 snorkle........also grinding down the "ribs" inside the lid for less turbulent airflow......(taken from the SV1000 Forum years ago). (NOTE: should my engine self-destruct within 1,000 miles of installing this mod, I will deny any involvement with this act of modification)

OK..........go ahead and hit your auto-ignite button......I'm ready.

268459


268460


268461
 

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I had never paid attention to the difference but now that you have pointed it out the light bulb kicked on!
Never had both bikes apart at same time to notice the difference.
So where did you source the new snorkel?
Mike


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I am sorry you did that to your airbox lid. Removing the ribs was a bad idea. They are...well, were, there for strength. You've made the airbox lid weaker, without improving anything.

Those folks on the SV1000 forum seem confused. Sounds like someone combined half-understood aerodynamics with horsepower myths.

I won't get into a whole fluid flow dissertation - tl;dr is that you actually want turbulence inside the airbox.

Piston engines operate on turbulent fluids. Trying to create laminar flow inside the airbox is pointless, and usually not practical.

If you want to dive in, this physics forum thread has a decent discussion of the topic: Air Intake Design / Turbulent Flow / Modifications

Suspect you're right regarding the overall sizing of the DL650 and DL1000 airboxes. Filters are same size, differing only slightly in construction details (DL1000 has an additional strengthening rib going across the media).

Can't be sure about the DL650 vs. DL1000 snorkels. IIRC the DL650 was developed after the DL1000. Maybe Suzuki realized it didn't need the larger DL1000 snorkel, or copied one from another similarly-sized engine they already made. Wonder if they grabbed the DL1000 snorkel from the SV1000 airbox?

update: nah, not the same looking at the parts diagram. FWIW, you can order just the snorkel (Tube, Inlet) for the DL1000 if you like.

update2: Maybe the SV1000 folks were thinking of the function of the "velocity stack." We have them in our Vstroms in the form of the rubber "horn" that sits on each throttle body. Velocity stack - Wikipedia

However the velocity stack itself "straightens out" the airflow as it's sucked into the throttle body. There's no point in trying to produce laminar flow anywhere outside the velocity stack, it's not needed and won't help.
 

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Fact: the DL650 snorkle is smaller in width & height than the DL1000.....and protrudes further inside the airbox.......
...
My Assumption: the shape of the airbox on both models is dictated by the tank and surrounding physical constraints.....it is NOT an "engineered item for optimum flow by Suzuki Engineers". They had to work within the constraints they were given.
Disclaimer: I think anyone should be able to do anything on their bikes that they want. People should feel free to do what they want with their own stuff.

Full disclosure: I have made many modifications in many bikes that I later changed back. Sometimes at a great expense. This is how you learn how to do this stuff if you don't have a mentor.

The roast: You just said there is a physical difference, and then said you assume they didn't engineer it. While your actual statement seems like a valid assumption, they did not engineer the airbox differently between the two models, they obviously did engineer the snorkel differently.

This is some pretty bad reverse engineering. You analyzed the airbox and snorkel. Determined that since the airbox is the same, they didn't engineer anything at all, even though there are obvious noted differences in the snorkel. Then you modified the thing that you said was different. At least you can just put the snorkel back and the ribs won't actually do anything besides make the box weaker.

I hope you didn't engineer your flame-proof suit.
 

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I did the same thing. Put a 1000 snorkel in my 650 air box. I actually got SV 650 horns too, the short ones in my L2 650. SV1000 snorkel should fit too.

I just started mine up in the Garage the other day.
 

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Heed crash bars
Just showed up, fresh off the plane from Poland. Very impressed so far. $165 shipped from Poland seems like a crazy deal and the fabrication and finish seems top notch.
Guy must get a deal on pipe insulation and tape. It was very well packaged into one big mass. Took 10 minutes with the pocket knife to free the pieces.
Probably put them on tomorrow.
268478

268479
 

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I'm curious about the way those bars join in the front.

Can the coupler (or whatever it is) be rotated around to any orientation, or does it have to go a specific way?

I'm also interested in how these crash bars compare to the corresponding Givi crash bars.

I have the Givi bars (TN528). They are about the same price as the Heed bars. Very similar construction - 1" steel pipe for Givi, 25mm (0.9") for the Heed.

The one thing I've never liked about the Givis is the way they connect at the front. The joint points right at the engine and sits only about 1/4" from touching the cylinder head. It's always given me the heebie jeebies. Been thinking about swapping out the Givis for something else, but don't want to shell out for a full Happy Trails crash bars setup.

I'd need the Heeds to be compatible with my existing Enduro Guardian skid plate.

I have a 2007 DL1000, but it looks like the Heed bars are basically the same for the older DL1000 and DL650.
 
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