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I took her for a ride yesterday for a coffee with a friend - 250 kms all told. I was trying out a fuel map I tweaked. She's very smooth from about 2600-2800 gentle acceleration, super smooth with an easy freewheeling sort of feeling at highway RPM and big power all the way up from 3000. It got 42 mpg Imperial (38 US) and that was about 90% at 4500-5000 RPM. I think I can do a bit better and have another tweaked version ready to put in. I'm looking for a consistent 300 kms per tank (320 kms = 200 miles). I bet I could do that now if I stopped enjoying the power and kept the speed at 100-110 km/h, but where's the fun in that???

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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I took her for a ride yesterday for a coffee with a friend - 250 kms all told. I was trying out a fuel map I tweaked. She's very smooth from about 2600-2800 gentle acceleration, super smooth with an easy freewheeling sort of feeling at highway RPM and big power all the way up from 3000. It got 42 mpg Imperial (38 US) and that was about 90% at 4500-5000 RPM. I think I can do a bit better and have another tweaked version ready to put in. I'm looking for a consistent 300 kms per tank (320 kms = 200 miles). I bet I could do that now if I stopped enjoying the power and kept the speed at 100-110 km/h, but where's the fun in that???

Cheers,
Glenn
Not sure how a 2002 behaves, but my 2007 Vee will start flashing the "Low Fuel" indication with about 3 gal remaining, then "WE'RE ALMOST OUT OF GAS!" when there's still a good 1.5 gallons in the tank.

It's therefore impossible to tell whether I'm actually down to my last 0.5 gal, or it's just the weird shape of the tank + inherent inaccuracy of the fuel gage.

That's why I'm reluctant to push 'er past 160-180 miles between fillups. Usually I am doing better than 30 mpg, but it's a conservative number for planning fuel stops.
 

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Not sure how a 2002 behaves, but my 2007 Vee will start flashing the "Low Fuel" indication with about 3 gal remaining, then "WE'RE ALMOST OUT OF GAS!" when there's still a good 1.5 gallons in the tank.

It's therefore impossible to tell whether I'm actually down to my last 0.5 gal, or it's just the weird shape of the tank + inherent inaccuracy of the fuel gage.

That's why I'm reluctant to push 'er past 160-180 miles between fillups. Usually I am doing better than 30 mpg, but it's a conservative number for planning fuel stops.
With mine the fuel "pump" icon starts flashing when down to one bar on the gauge, but for the first 10 kms or so of this it can go back to 2 bars (weird gas tank shape, I guess). Apparently when the fuel "pump" icon and the last bar on the gauge BOTH start flashing you're really in trouble. So, my tank holds 22 litres (5.9 US Gal/4.8 Imp Gal). The "pump" was flashing for a good 20 kms or more, but not the bar. At 252 kms she took 16.6 litres (4.4 US Gal/3.65 Imp Gal). That left 5.4 litres (1.4 US Gal/1.2 Imp Gal). Theoretically I could have gone another 64 kms (40 miles) provided the fuel pick up will get down to that last litre. Who knows? The flashing gauge lights would freak me out before that!

Edit: I forgot to say I always fill up on the sidestand, so if she was level maybe I could get another litre into her.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Installed an R&G rad guard. 30 minute job, fits great, no more worries about "stuff" holing the rad.
 

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Installed Fodsports M1S Pro bluetooth receiver on helmet for riding coms with my bro and bluetooth music / phone calls piped over from phone. $52 from Alibaba. Shipped from California, $25 cheaper than Amazon. Decent audio, good enough for my purposes-does the job.
 

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I did some riding running errands yesterday and noticed some slight rubbing noises from the front calipers/pads - maybe a bit more than I noticed before - when moving it around parking spaces. When I got home I took off one caliper at a time to see if one or the other was more guilty. Nope, about the same. I had taken one off and spread the pads in both when I changed the tires a week or so ago. Anyway, I did what I should have done then - I took out the slider pins and cleaned, polished and greased them with copper anti-seize grease (high temp). They were pretty (really) grungy. This should be done at least every season - more if you ride a lot and in less than ideal weather.

Now I think it's time to make the Trophy the full time ride for the winter (full fairing with integrated lowers and a tall, wide windshield). The V-Strom will go on the lift for maintenance and electrical work (auxiliary fuse box and headlight relays).

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Just finished cleaning slave cylinder and slam forgot to take photos of the finished product. Smart phone laying rite there on that new Shad Seat I'm so happy about too! I looked for my glasses for about 20 minutes. Found them in my shirt pocket. Now I'm thinking about it, I may need to go back out there and take everything apart just in case I forgot something. :LOL:
20191224_111219.jpg
 

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I got started installing the auxiliary fusebox. The first step was to plan where it and the relays would go and think about wire routing. The PC III USB is sitting in the space just in front of the tool kit. The cubby in front of the seat latches has the Owners Manual & papers. The fusebox will fit there and still leave room for the manual & docs on top. There is just enough space in front of that cubby for the 3 extra relays (fusebox, low beam & high beam) between the cubby and the ECU. I stripped a cm of insulation off the brown tail light wire just behind the R/R and soldered a brown trigger wire for the fusebox relay, drilled a few holes in the walls of the cubby for the relay mounting screws and to put the wires through for the fusebox. I'll continue after Christmas.
 

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BTW is that a homebrew headlight relay harness? I wasn't aware it was possible to install such a setup in that location. Seems more compact than the Eastern Beaver headlight relay harness.
 

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BTW is that a homebrew headlight relay harness? I wasn't aware it was possible to install such a setup in that location. Seems more compact than the Eastern Beaver headlight relay harness.
Yes, I always make my own harnesses. I bought the components on Amazon (I can only get basics locally - wire, connectors, fuses). I want to do a tidy job so the headlight wiring will be neatly tie wrapped and maybe put in the flexi black loom cover stuff when I'm done. I bought a couple of relays that came with the plugs/pigtails https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078T8CMF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , a couple of H4 extensions/adapters so the connections to the BackOff look factory (I'll cut the adapter in the middle to make two pigtails - they need to be installed backwards to their original configuration) https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CQWXG52/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the fusebox https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DYT2TVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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Just installed a set of T-Rex Racing Crash Bars on my 2017 DL650AL.
Great product. Really well made, complete instructions, including torque settings, plus their video on YouTube made it a breeze.
They used Nylock nuts on everything except the top frame hex bolts. I contacted them and they advised to use Blue Loctite.
Sure enough, when I removed them, it appears that Suzuki used Blue on the originals.
So.....the installation was a breeze and they are really solid and follow the lines of the DL650 very well.
They also received the seal of approval from SWMBO, who came in to the garage to check them and she thought they fit well on the bike and looked factory :) !
 

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I got started installing the auxiliary fusebox. The first step was to plan where it and the relays would go and think about wire routing. The PC III USB is sitting in the space just in front of the tool kit. The cubby in front of the seat latches has the Owners Manual & papers. The fusebox will fit there and still leave room for the manual & docs on top. There is just enough space in front of that cubby for the 3 extra relays (fusebox, low beam & high beam) between the cubby and the ECU. I stripped a cm of insulation off the brown tail light wire just behind the R/R and soldered a brown trigger wire for the fusebox relay, drilled a few holes in the walls of the cubby for the relay mounting screws and to put the wires through for the fusebox. I'll continue after Christmas.
If you used a neutrino, you wouldn't; need any relays!
 

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If you used a neutrino, you wouldn't; need any relays!
:ROFLMAO: David, I understand relays, not Neutrino. I know it has black magic and smoke in it, but not how it works.

Cheers,
Glenn
 

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FIRST..........I screwed up inserting pics.........oh well........!!!!!!!

My 2008 Wee has been "down" (dissected apart, somewhat) for the last month or two...........getting it ready for my Alaska Trip in June 2020. It only has 13k miles, but I am changing out some items anyway. So far, (as of today) I have...........
1. changed out front and rear brake pads.......flushed all brake fluids.
2. installed new K&N Air Filter.......courtesy of FireFox (Todd in Nashville)
3. increased storage areas behind both rear sidecovers by creating an hand accessway in their tops
4. new Tires received (not installed yet)..........Scout 60's
5. new rear Supersprox Rear spocket.......-1 tooth than OEM.
6. new chain rec'd, not installed yet
7. installed Rancho Fork Gaitors that I ordered probably 8-10 years ago.......(see pic)
8. installed new ZUMO 396 in place of my older Zumo 550. Installed a plastic sun shade over it (see pic)
9. installed Sonic Springs in the front.......have had them for 5 years, just now getting around to pulling the forks off to install (see #7 above)
10. flushed coolant system.......refilled with new antifreeze
11. also installed my "headlight stone guard" with added plexiglass covers.........

Besides installing the tires, oil/filter change, and swapping out the chain, most of my "maint items" are done. Next (3 months) will be figuring out my storage systems.........tent, sleeping bag, clothes, food, spares, etc. The bike already has a Pelican topbox, Pelican knock-off side panniers, Wolfman Small Rollie Bags mounted on the back end of each pannier, crash bar bags, and 2-3 bicycle bags mounted all over the bike, FirtsGear Dry Duffle........and a new SW Motech EVO Tankbag. I am also mounting a small bicycle bag (7" x 7" pouch) inside the front fairing system to keep documents in. I have a new "tool tube" system I want to try out for storage of my heated vest, cool vest, bike cover, gloves, etc.......soft materials. The tubes are made from 4" square plastic fence post from Lowes........one mounted on each side of my Pelican Topbox. My goal is to keep the extra gear weight as low as possible on the bike, not piled up high like a pyramid!!
I have been planning this trip for at least 10 years now.......which, to me, is the fun part!! I guess the word "farkling" is a verb.......

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