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Discussion Starter #1
Today I decided I needed to replace the chain after 16,000 miles. I removed the rear wheel to clean and inspect the rear sprocket and rubber bumpers, and then the cover to inspect the front sprocket. I seem to recall I should have pulled the clutch lever and tied it off to the grip, which I did not. The last time I did this I forgot and ended up just squeezing the piston back into the housing with my fingers and then tightening the bolts. Everything was fine.

Did the same, as the piston had worked its way out a bit, but now have no clutch at all. I start the engine in neutral, and the wheel spins, clutch or no. I stop it with the brake, shift into gear (on centerstand) with or without the use of the clutch, and holding the brake, it does not kill the engine. I can rev the engine in gear and I get no wheel spin. Squeezing or releasing the clutch has no effect at all.

I just ran a can of fluid through the bleeder thinking I had air in the line. I get lots of bubbles, but still no clutch action. Sometimes a hard lever for a couple of seconds then back to soft.

Could there be damage to the rubber diaphram on the piston? I'm at a loss.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Yet more 1000 issues!:fineprint:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm more inclined to think it is an issue with the guy working on it, not the machine.

I checked the slave cylinder piston for movement and it has what appears to be normal.

Ran another can of fluid through again, and keep getting a lot of air, so either I am not doing it right (classic way--tube stuck in a bottle of fluid connected to the bleeder) or there is air getting into the system somewhere. Hose connections are all tight, so I can only suspect the piston has a leak. Not finding any fluid any where tho'.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I get to front sprocket I just remove the slave and cover without squeezing anything... When I reinstall stuff, I just bolt everything back...

...and I've done it million times.
I did the same before and it worked for me.... but not this time. Only difference is this time I moved the chain a couple of feet to inspect it while the rear wheel was off, moving the front sprocket. So I wonder if I threw something out of sync.
 

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Yet more 1000 issues!:fineprint:
I'm very happy to agree with you that the 1k is a heap of junk, but in this particular case, it clearly seems to be a human error type of problem. The OP would have had the exact same issue with a 650 if it had a hydraulic clutch.

Maybe we shouldn't take hydraulic clutches apart unless we know how they work (or at least have a shop manual to follow).

To the OP:
cbrxxess has some good advice; you should investigate.
 

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excellent

Excellent chance you deranged the clutch disk (pushed it our past the end of the basket) thus jamming the clutch. Interesting how doing something wrong and getting away with it conditions us to believe that we'll always get away with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Through the oil fill hole I can see that the clutch moves when I pull the lever, but the plates never tighten up, and still have spaces. So, it appears the slave cylinder is working fine, and that the clutch must have come out of alignment.
 

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clutch

If the slave is not seated corrctly,it will be in a bind. The slave can hang up on the dowel and cock the slave and not seat, it will look correct but clutch won;t release. I would carefully re-assembly making sure slave is engaging dowel all the way.
 

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I'm more inclined to think it is an issue with the guy working on it, not the machine.
That comment makes you smarter than 90% of the rest of the world. Good for you, and I mean that sincerely.

Wish I could help you with your clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That comment makes you smarter than 90% of the rest of the world. Good for you, and I mean that sincerely.

Wish I could help you with your clutch.
Thanks for the reply. I am about to look at the shop manual and see I can un-screw my screw up and get the pressure plate realigned.

I believe in having it FUBAR'd before I take it to a real mechanic..... might as well get my money's worth.
 

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If it is any consolation you are not the first to have had this happen. Live and learn :beatnik:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So is this the way it is supposed to look? If so, is the whole unit (clutch plates/pressure plate) supposed to move side to side as one unit?

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got it all back together tonight and took it out for a spin. Everything seems to be back to normal with no leaks. However I did notice a little water in the oil in the sight glass, so I drained it and will refill with new tomorrow. I was careful with the gasket and tightening sequence, so that shouldn't be a problem.

I drained the oil and coolant before I cracked the cover (oil only had 200 miles on the change), but there was still a lot of coolant splashing about when it came off. I figured some of it might have fallen into the crankcase even though I tried to prevent it.

I appreciate the help from everyone (especially those who refrained from calling me a dumbass), as I might not have tried to fix my mistake without the offered advice.
 

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I think I have the same issue, but always love second and third opinions.

I have changed out sprockets and chains before, once on this bike. I don't remember having the issue with the clutch failing to engage before though. Looking through the service manual (after I break something, of course), it looks like it recommends binding the clutch lever before beginning the disassembly...

So, does this likely mean that the piston has come out of the clutch release cylinder? If so, can it simply be pushed back into the cylinder?
 

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I think I have the same issue, but always love second and third opinions.

I have changed out sprockets and chains before, once on this bike. I don't remember having the issue with the clutch failing to engage before though. Looking through the service manual (after I break something, of course), it looks like it recommends binding the clutch lever before beginning the disassembly...

So, does this likely mean that the piston has come out of the clutch release cylinder? If so, can it simply be pushed back into the cylinder?
The procedure in the manual actually works to increase the chances of the pressure plate hanging up. The best way to work under that cover is ziptie the slave cylinder in place while you work.

you can open the oil fill cap, grab a flat head screw driver and pry the pressure plate in toward clutch basket. It will snap back into place. It shouldn't take too much pressure.


 

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The procedure in the manual actually works to increase the chances of the pressure plate hanging up. The best way to work under that cover is ziptie the slave cylinder in place while you work.

you can open the oil fill cap, grab a flat head screw driver and pry the pressure plate in toward clutch basket. It will snap back into place. It shouldn't take too much pressure.


Thanks for the tip. I'll try it this evening. I guess I just got lucky the last time I had it disassembled.
 

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"just another Vee issue"...uh huh. If you would rather have a cable clutch than a hydraulic clutch than you have a "wee" issue.

I skip tying the clutch lever down and just remove the slave cylinder and put a zip tie around it using a small socket in the push rod area to keep the piston from extending. My guess is the slave piston worked its self part of the way out of the cylinder and as you reassembled the bike the pushrod moved the pressure plate.

Ignore the little wee helpers who need to adjust their more technically advanced cable clutches.
 
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