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Discussion Starter #1
Ok here is the situation........was starting to notice my battery voltage dropping below 12v when I turn on ignition and after the fuel pump primes. I know my on-board meter is accurate, and I can also tell by how weak the starter is turning over, that the voltage is most certainly correct. Really weird thing is that my voltage is below 12v even if I start immediately after unhooking my battery tender, I have also tried my spare charger and there was no change. So I bought a new battery in hopes that was the issue.......no change. Once the bike starts and I go ride for a bit, the standing voltage upon fuel pump prime and ignition on is "always" around 12.4 volts and the engine turns over like I would normally expect. I just disconnected my Zumo 390 from my "un-switched" circuit on the PC8, there is now nothing un-switched and going directly to the battery other than my pigtail lead for the battery charger. I am hoping it was the Zumo cradle somehow being a voltage vampire, there is what looks to be a voltage regulator for the Zumo as it doesn't hook directly to the battery. But.....why/how could that be a potential issue, when I am still seeing a voltage drain even after being hooked up to a battery tender? :confused: This only occurs after the bike has been sitting for at least 24 hours, whether hooked up to charger or not, after riding the voltage stays above 12 volts no problem at rest. Any ideas as to what in the hell is going on?? I have a new recalled stator, but still have the same OEM shunt R/R.
 

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Wonder if pulling the negative batt terminal and measuring what the voltage is with the key off would help?
The clock and such is going to pull a little. That should be minimal though.
If there is a voltage, happy parasite searching.
Sometimes a pinched wire will take a while to flow the covering off the wire and cause a short. We used to get that with solenoids on the equipment. Guys weren't careful reinstalling the mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What "really" confuses me is how/why would I still have a low standing voltage even after being plugged into battery tender? I guess there is a chance I have "2" bad wall chargers, anything is possible. LOL
 

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My first guess would be the battery tender is malfunctioning. Are you not riding for weeks at a time? Once a month in winter storage is plenty. Are your readings okay if you don't use the tender?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My first guess would be the battery tender is malfunctioning. Are you not riding for weeks at a time? Once a month in winter storage is plenty. Are your readings okay if you don't use the tender?
Bike lately has been sitting for no longer than a week, I still have the drop whether hooked up or not, but the chargers should ensure my voltage is well above 12 volts. I will go out now and see how things look since I disconnected anything from the un-switched circuits. Once I go out riding, anytime throughout that day when I stop and re-start the bike, my voltages are always spot on......this just happens once it sits for at least 24 hours. :frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here are some voltages and things I just tried:

Standing voltage at battery with both Fluke meter and onboard meter: 13.1 volts
Voltage once ignition turned on with Fluke at battery: 11.9 volts
Running voltage at idle with both Fluke and onboard meter: 14.2 volts

I disconnected anything going to my PC8 to rule it out, made no difference. If I have 2 bad batteries somehow, that would be a first EVER. My original battery and the new one are giving me identical values, hence why I am so confused right now............I HATE electrical issues more than anything! :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am going to take the original OEM battery to the local parts store for load testing.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I don't see any problem with those numbers. 11.9V with the ignition on and the engine not running is exactly what my bike got.
 

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I wonder whether this is simply the difference between a cold battery (after the bike sat for a while, assuming you garage is cold) and a warm battery heated up by use and sitting atop of the engine?

I never paid much attention to the starting voltage, only the running voltage, so I have no data for cold vs warm battery. Is there a difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys, I have noticed these voltages regardless of temp outside. It hasn't left me stranded or anything, but starting voltages are most certainly above 12v once been out riding and battery is warmed up. I just want to be sure all is well, I have a big trip out West this Summer and portions of the trip will be in the middle of nowhere. I have been debating installing LED bulbs in headlamps, that should for sure help with starting voltage I would imagine. It is nice to know my onboard meter is "very" accurate when compared to my Fluke, at least I have that going for me. :)
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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When you push the start button, the headlights get cut out. That will raise your actual starting voltage to above 12V.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When you push the start button, the headlights get cut out. That will raise your actual starting voltage to above 12V.

Yup I noticed that watching the meter, how does it work with the EB headlight relays? Buddy of mine has a new Aprilia and the headlights don't come on until the engine is running, my Connie 14 was the same way.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Relays basically replace the headlights as far as the bike's electrical system is concerned. Push the start button and the power to the relays is cut off, turning the lights off. It's safe to push the start button on a V-Strom with a running engine as the starter uses a clutch unlike the usual car solenoid that engages a gear. On any 2005 or later V-Strom, push the start button whether the engine is running or not, relayed or not, and the headlights will go out. You can actually use the start button to flash your headlight when riding. Don't try that on just any bike though as some may work like the typical car.

I had a Yamaha XS Eleven that would turn the headlights on when the engine was started. It ran headlight relay coils off the AC voltage from the charging system.
 

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I think you are over-analyzing. Since you have a new battery, put that one in for the trip out west and use the old one until then. That way you know that the battery should not give you problems when on the long road.
 

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My gut tells me you maintain your bikes well. I agree with Helmut, put the new battery in for the trip and have a great time. These bikes, if carefully maintained, are super dependable. Enjoy your summer adventure, you have nothing to worry about. Take lots of pictures.
 

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I will be installing a Zumo soon. A friend here warned me to be sure to hook the power to a switched source, and not to the battery. I told him I would take the Zumo off when not in use, but he said he had that same prob. He can't explain why or how... but his Zumo mount was the drain. He moved it to switched and had no further problems.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I wonder if this little graphic I've posted before is causing some confusion. Bear in mind the engine off section is also a lights off situation. On vehicles that have lights come on with the ignition, expect the voltmeter reading to be a little lower. You can push the start button with the clutch lever out to check the lights off voltage on 2005 or later Stroms that do not have the clutch switch bypassed.




So I've made an adjustment.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am also going with how the engine is struggling turning over, not just the displayed voltage. How the starter turns over when I am displaying above 12 volts compared to just below 12 volts is very obvious.
I know my bike and pay attention to things, this is something I started to notice last Fall on a late season Kentucky trip I took. I am at "marginal" voltage with engine off....that is my conundrum here. :)
 

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Relays basically replace the headlights as far as the bike's electrical system is concerned. Push the start button and the power to the relays is cut off, turning the lights off. It's safe to push the start button on a V-Strom with a running engine as the starter uses a clutch unlike the usual car solenoid that engages a gear. On any 2005 or later V-Strom, push the start button whether the engine is running or not, relayed or not, and the headlights will go out. You can actually use the start button to flash your headlight when riding. Don't try that on just any bike though as some may work like the typical car.
...
It's probably a coincidence but when I got my DL1000 I was big on doing that. I forget how long I had it - not long, a few thousand miles I think - when my first and only (so far) headlight bulb on a Strom burnt out. I stopped doing that.

...Tom
 
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