The most obvious thing to check is the rear wheel alignment as it is adjustable. You can check the marks on the swingarm near the rear axle but they are not always accurate. If both sides are in the same position, sight down the chain to see if the run is straight where the chain meets the rear sprocket. Various string and laser pointer methods can help too.
Wee pulls to the right
Hi all,
I've got a strange problem with my Wee in that if I take my hands off the bars while riding, it immediately pulls to the right. It's significant enough to cause me to have to quickly grab the bars again to straighten up. I've had the bike for a year now (I bought it new) and it's done this from day one. I have told the mechanic where I bought it and he was visibly confused and said to me, "I don't know. It can't happen. It's not physically possible". Well, I can't see why it's not possible but does anyone have any idea what might be causing this? I don't have panniers or any addition/change to the stock bike.
Thanks. Steve.
I've got a strange problem with my Wee in that if I take my hands off the bars while riding, it immediately pulls to the right. It's significant enough to cause me to have to quickly grab the bars again to straighten up. I've had the bike for a year now (I bought it new) and it's done this from day one. I have told the mechanic where I bought it and he was visibly confused and said to me, "I don't know. It can't happen. It's not physically possible". Well, I can't see why it's not possible but does anyone have any idea what might be causing this? I don't have panniers or any addition/change to the stock bike.
Thanks. Steve.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
You're not riding on an off camber road are you? Most roads are crowned in the middle to allow rain to runoff, if your on the right side the road leans right, left leans left. Just a thought, if nothing is mechanically wrong with your bike.
Check the rear wheel for aliment as GW said, also try testing in a pretty level road (but i'm assuming this happens everywhere and anywhere).
If you are sure that the rear wheel is straight and it still pulls, maybe have someone follow you and see if the bike is dog walking (rear and front wheels not lined up) while riding. If you cant, get a bucket of water, dump it on the road and drive though it. Check the tire marks to see if they are lined up. Also check the tires to see where the road hit them and got wet. Make sure that the tires are riding in the center.
If that does nothing for you and it still pulls hard right, check the wheels and make sure that they are both neutral in camber (are perfectly vertical in relation to the bike frame). Maybe the front has a slight camber that is causing it to pull. Has the bike been down or the wheels changed?
Also check for tire wear, focus on the front, a unevenly worn tires will cause a pull on a bike.
Just a few ideas.. Oh yea, it was not stated if this is a new issue, or a continuing issue.
Data to add to this:
Oh yea.. I forgot that you stated that its done this from day one, when new. I would take it back and make sure its fixed while under warranty (if it still is). The bike should not pull and its dangerous IMHO in this state. I'm sure others will agree that the bike can be ridden pretty much hands off.
If you are sure that the rear wheel is straight and it still pulls, maybe have someone follow you and see if the bike is dog walking (rear and front wheels not lined up) while riding. If you cant, get a bucket of water, dump it on the road and drive though it. Check the tire marks to see if they are lined up. Also check the tires to see where the road hit them and got wet. Make sure that the tires are riding in the center.
If that does nothing for you and it still pulls hard right, check the wheels and make sure that they are both neutral in camber (are perfectly vertical in relation to the bike frame). Maybe the front has a slight camber that is causing it to pull. Has the bike been down or the wheels changed?
Also check for tire wear, focus on the front, a unevenly worn tires will cause a pull on a bike.
Just a few ideas.. Oh yea, it was not stated if this is a new issue, or a continuing issue.
Data to add to this:
Oh yea.. I forgot that you stated that its done this from day one, when new. I would take it back and make sure its fixed while under warranty (if it still is). The bike should not pull and its dangerous IMHO in this state. I'm sure others will agree that the bike can be ridden pretty much hands off.
Forks tweaked? Maybe torqued wrong in the clamps?
My bike has always pulled very slightly left since it was new. That was almost 45k miles ago. I've pretty much had everything loose since then that might be the cause and have given up on figuring it out.
I'll be interested to know if you find anything.
I'll be interested to know if you find anything.
Thanks guys. I'll check the alignment as you suggest.
Mud Puddle, I am aware of the road camber and am sure that's not what's causing the pull.
Cdherlils - I'll have a look at the things you suggest. It's been doing it since new but it's possible I got a dodgy tyre from the start. I'll have a closer look at tyres but I haven't noticed anything that looks unusual.
I don't notice it when I'm riding but it bothers me that it's there. It shouldn't be.
Thanks.
Steve
Mud Puddle, I am aware of the road camber and am sure that's not what's causing the pull.
Cdherlils - I'll have a look at the things you suggest. It's been doing it since new but it's possible I got a dodgy tyre from the start. I'll have a closer look at tyres but I haven't noticed anything that looks unusual.
I don't notice it when I'm riding but it bothers me that it's there. It shouldn't be.
Thanks.
Steve
Same thing used to happen with my Vee, until my buddy came over on his Wee one day to have a look at it. Ended up being very simple - the suspension adjusters on the top of the front forks were set to different settings.
Just a thought, as this was the way I received it from the dealer, up until that point I had never used the suspension adjustment.
Just a thought, as this was the way I received it from the dealer, up until that point I had never used the suspension adjustment.
Once you solve the problem get a new mechanic.I have told the mechanic where I bought it and he was visibly confused and said to me, "I don't know. It can't happen. It's not physically possible".
Your mechanic should take the bike for a ride and see for himself..
To the OP, mine does the same thing. I am the second owner but I bought my '07 this year with only 1775 miles on it from a guy I know so it was basically new. I haven't yet checked the wheel alignment but I will.
I let go of the bars and it's a quick step to the right. I'm thinking it's probably the wheel alignment and it wasn't right from the time the bike was assembled. I can't say enough bad things about the dealership from where this bike was originally purchased. :thumbdown:
I let go of the bars and it's a quick step to the right. I'm thinking it's probably the wheel alignment and it wasn't right from the time the bike was assembled. I can't say enough bad things about the dealership from where this bike was originally purchased. :thumbdown:
Did not think of that.. make sure that the preloads on the forks are the same exact settings.. also .. make sure that the fork tubes are exactly the same height in the triple clampsSame thing used to happen with my Vee, until my buddy came over on his Wee one day to have a look at it. Ended up being very simple - the suspension adjusters on the top of the front forks were set to different settings.
I agree.. either he feels its not worth his time, or has no idea what to do, regardless both are a bad signOnce you solve the problem get a new mechanic.
This made me check mine and found there was half a turn difference between them. With hope this was my problem, I evened them up. It made no difference. I then tried offsetting them both ways 2 turns. Still didn't help, although one way seemed to make it slightly worse.Same thing used to happen with my Vee, until my buddy came over on his Wee one day to have a look at it. Ended up being very simple - the suspension adjusters on the top of the front forks were set to different settings.
BTW, I can make my bike run true with the rear wheel adjustment, but when I do, my chain is running to one side of the sprocket all the time.
That's where the problem is.BTW, I can make my bike run true with the rear wheel adjustment, but when I do, my chain is running to one side of the sprocket all the time.
Have you lost a spacer out of the rear wheel assembly?
Have you measured the distance between the top of the fork lowers and the lower triple tree to see if the forks are compressing equally? This should be done with you in the saddle, of course.
Both spacers are present that I'm aware of. I've had the rear wheel off multiple times.That's where the problem is.
Have you lost a spacer out of the rear wheel assembly?
It's been a while, but best I remember the difference in adjustment between my bike running straight or the chain running centered is fairly slight - less than 1/2 turn of an adjuster. Maybe I'll try it again and see exactly what it is.
Oh one other thing, when I had the alignment adjusted to keep the bike from drifting, the difference from left and right cornering is noticable. When the chain is running true, cornering feels the same both ways. I know that sounds backwards, and is mainly what has me confused with this whole situation.
After reading this I checked. My left fork is indeed compressing about 1/16 inch more than the right one. This seems to be consistant regardless of how far I compressed them. I checked by putting wire ties on both fork rods, pumping them with bike on centerstand, and measuring from bottom of triple to wire tie.Have you measured the distance between the top of the fork lowers and the lower triple tree to see if the forks are compressing equally? This should be done with you in the saddle, of course.
Would this small a difference account for left drifting you think? I'll probably try and adjust this out and see what happens.
BTW, I have my fork tubes slipped in the clamps about 15mm each side, they are equal. My symptoms have been exactly the same before and after slipping the forks.
I would think so. I would think that they would need to compress equally to have a balanced pressure on the wheel.After reading this I checked. My left fork is indeed compressing about 1/16 inch more than the right one. This seems to be consistent regardless of how far I compressed them. I checked by putting wire ties on both fork rods, pumping them with bike on centerstand, and measuring from bottom of triple to wire tie.
Would this small a difference account for left drifting you think? I'll probably try and adjust this out and see what happens.
If one side is pressing harder then the other, things might slightly warp, causing the wheel to tilt into the harder side thus causing a slight lean in the wheel (camber) and the drift.. There is definally a tilt..
Maybe slide the less compressible fork up 1/16 up the tree? Would a wheel brace work in this instance? Maybe readjust the preload so that you get the same exact compression if possible? Which would be better, preload, or slide the tube? Maybe preload..
I know its not rocket science, but I would think that they would need to be exact in compression.. I'm hooked.. I want to see what resolves this.
I'm would think for ozart its a front end issue, for the OP not sure.
What does not make sense is that, the left fork is not resisting compression (or being compressed more) as much as the right (correct me if wrong), in that case, the wheel would tilt towards the right and cause a right drift.
That's how I see it too, which further compounds the issue of trying to figure it out.What does not make sense is that, the left fork is not resisting compression (or being compressed more) as much as the right (correct me if wrong), in that case, the wheel would tilt towards the right and cause a right drift.
Ozart, I think that we are onto something with the compression stroke of the shocks.. We need to balance them.. I don't have any scientific testing to prove it, but I'll explain that we were incorrect in thinking that a soft left, stiffer right shock would make the bike curve right. It would be possibly true if there was no rake in the forks, but here is.
Try to view this perspective in you mind..
Say we take your bike and stand it so that your forks are compressed holding the weight of the bike (endo style). In your setup, the top of the wheel from the bikers perspective would be tilted slightly to the right (soft left shock and harder right shock). We assumed, and probably correctly that the bike would want to curve slightly to the right in this state.
But your bike does not ride this way, it rides with the forks raked. That reverses the direction.
Take that picture of the v-strom doing a endo, and drop the rear end down with out de-compressing the front forks. With added rake, the wheel area between the forks is still tilted to the right, the front of the wheel near the contact patch would be tilted towards the left. This may indeed account for the little bit of left input you are seeing.
Try to balance out the shocks using pre-load and maybe even loosen up the pinch bolts and axle and bounce on the front to reset the forks. Once you tighten up everything on the front wheel, re-check the front shocks compression to see if they are still in line.
I know its only 1/16 of a inch difference, would it matter to the ride quality of the bike? How many other motorcycles are riding around with un even pre-loads? Also, can a v-strom do a endo?
Try to view this perspective in you mind..
Say we take your bike and stand it so that your forks are compressed holding the weight of the bike (endo style). In your setup, the top of the wheel from the bikers perspective would be tilted slightly to the right (soft left shock and harder right shock). We assumed, and probably correctly that the bike would want to curve slightly to the right in this state.
But your bike does not ride this way, it rides with the forks raked. That reverses the direction.
Take that picture of the v-strom doing a endo, and drop the rear end down with out de-compressing the front forks. With added rake, the wheel area between the forks is still tilted to the right, the front of the wheel near the contact patch would be tilted towards the left. This may indeed account for the little bit of left input you are seeing.
Try to balance out the shocks using pre-load and maybe even loosen up the pinch bolts and axle and bounce on the front to reset the forks. Once you tighten up everything on the front wheel, re-check the front shocks compression to see if they are still in line.
I know its only 1/16 of a inch difference, would it matter to the ride quality of the bike? How many other motorcycles are riding around with un even pre-loads? Also, can a v-strom do a endo?
What year is your bike? How many miles are on it?Hi all,
I've got a strange problem with my Wee in that if I take my hands off the bars while riding, it immediately pulls to the right. It's significant enough to cause me to have to quickly grab the bars again to straighten up. I've had the bike for a year now (I bought it new) and it's done this from day one. I have told the mechanic where I bought it and he was visibly confused and said to me, "I don't know. It can't happen. It's not physically possible". Well, I can't see why it's not possible but does anyone have any idea what might be causing this? I don't have panniers or any addition/change to the stock bike.
Thanks. Steve.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
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