Wee front wheel help
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Joined
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38,702 Posts
It's not good. I'll try some of those listed. I've contacted mcwheel, still awaiting a response after email and phone call. Here's a video I took of it in garage that I sent to MC.
http://youtu.be/sbf21f2zCtk
http://youtu.be/sbf21f2zCtk
They fixed mine bent like yours but be aware it may need welding, (mine did). If that concerns you discuss their policy beforehand so your not surprised.
I think I was told ; a $50 minimum and they'd call beforehand if it's to exceed $150. They called to say it was done, fee was $150 and it required welding. I guess welding didn't really enter my mind and it took some explanation from them to convince me it was a safe repair.
The weld is on one side of a spoke at the base, near the hub. I'm not sure if it was cracked there from the accident or in the straightening process it cracked. Doesn't really matter IMO.
I actually straightened an SV 1000 rim, same construct as DL except 17" diameter. I used a 10 ton arbor press at work and it was only a 3/8" wobble. I can say though to remove a run-out of just 3/8" I had to press/deflect the rims perimeter a huge amount, like 1 1/2". The material springs back that much!
It was an interesting experience, took me 1/2 the day, maybe more, with many "experimental" presses to develop a feel for how the rim reacts. I was actually shocked and very pleased how well it turned out, truly close to perfect. The more I worked it the more I developed a feel. I now can definitely see how an experienced shop can do repairs confidently, efficiently, and profitably.
Additionally in hindsight, I can see where correction of a major wobble might involve welding.
dave
I think I was told ; a $50 minimum and they'd call beforehand if it's to exceed $150. They called to say it was done, fee was $150 and it required welding. I guess welding didn't really enter my mind and it took some explanation from them to convince me it was a safe repair.
The weld is on one side of a spoke at the base, near the hub. I'm not sure if it was cracked there from the accident or in the straightening process it cracked. Doesn't really matter IMO.
I actually straightened an SV 1000 rim, same construct as DL except 17" diameter. I used a 10 ton arbor press at work and it was only a 3/8" wobble. I can say though to remove a run-out of just 3/8" I had to press/deflect the rims perimeter a huge amount, like 1 1/2". The material springs back that much!
It was an interesting experience, took me 1/2 the day, maybe more, with many "experimental" presses to develop a feel for how the rim reacts. I was actually shocked and very pleased how well it turned out, truly close to perfect. The more I worked it the more I developed a feel. I now can definitely see how an experienced shop can do repairs confidently, efficiently, and profitably.
Additionally in hindsight, I can see where correction of a major wobble might involve welding.
dave
Joined
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228 Posts
Ebay has surprising deals now and then, but I just checked and there's nothing on it right now. Maybe check that every once and a while if you're in no rush? Best of luck!
Sorry to hear that. What prevented repair?.... amount of wobble? .... the damage in the rim area? ... tire bead sealing area cracked maybe?
I think I didn't watch your video to the end, where the rim was damaged was evident. ( My rim was nice everywhere but the whole wheel wobbled).
Dave
I think I didn't watch your video to the end, where the rim was damaged was evident. ( My rim was nice everywhere but the whole wheel wobbled).
Dave
Joined
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4,054 Posts
I reviewed your video, and while I have no advice as to where you may obtain a wheel, I thik I know why you hit a kerb at speed: Your bike appears to have no front brake calipers.
The thingies that are dangling from the brake lines need to be bolted onto the forks so they can clamp the shiny perforated disks on your wheel.
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