Strom Trooper banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
$tromtrooper
Joined
·
2,378 Posts
It seemed to work on my old Kilimanjaro, at least somewhat. WARNING: do not machine wash! The first time I did it, I opened all the hook-and-loop, and it shredded much of the non-ballistic nylon and a pants liner I threw in. I learned my lesson, and closed all the hook-and-loop when I re-treated a year or so later. That finished the job. :headbang: Oh well, the old one was over five years old and way too big given my intentional weight loss. Have been enjoying my new Kili for about a year now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,018 Posts
I use it on my Aerostitch stuff and my Guardian bike cover, the NikWax repellent works well. Use their soap first. I get mine at REI and it is pricey but once a year, not so bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,043 Posts
Yes use the hand wash method and it works great.

I did my riding gear and with the leftovers in the tub I did my old wets too.

I hung a jacket on the line to dry after the treatment and a week later the pockets were still full of water, so yes it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,043 Posts
No gooey on mine, feel the same as new.

I have used it a few times(not the same gear) and I will admit that I did not rinse mine as per the instructions the last time.

I used the hand wash method and just hung them out to dry and I'm happy with the results.
 

·
$tromtrooper
Joined
·
2,378 Posts
How gooey is it to the touch after treatment and proper drying? Does it attract dirt, hair and such?
No discernible residue as far as I can remember. Just renewed water proofing.

I also have used their leather products on boots. Worked well, I suppose, but not on gloves. Realistically, good leather boots like my CTBs are inherently waterproof on their own. Just need a good cleaning and an occasional coat of just about anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
657 Posts
Get out the Skidmore's

Out of curiosity, I stopped at a "Motorcycle, Saddle and Tack" storefront in Wyoming in the early 90's. The guy at the counter took one look at my old Dingo brand boots and passed over an open jar saying, "Put some of this on 'em or you'll be going barefoot bubba". The stuff worked so well, I bought some. In fact, I've had all success with Skidmore's Beeswax Waterproofing over the years.
Contact us at Skidmore's

It won't plug joints or gaps. It will soften, protect and give long life to any leather products and the stitches holding them together.

I bought a pair of Icon boots at an end of season sale because they are supposed to be waterproof already. They fit OK if standing still, but that tough, heavy leather was killing me doing break-in.

I applied the Skidmore's with an old sock. After sitting overnight, I polished off the excess. Made these boots flexible and all-day wearable for riding or walking.
 

·
$tromtrooper
Joined
·
2,378 Posts
As per Aerostich's recommendation, you should only use lotions, softeners, unguents, or balms on developing hinge points in new mc boots. Softening all the leather could reduce the protectiveness. I've used Pecard's NeverLeak on my boots and gloves. Gloves are hopeless, but in both cases, it left a heavy, hot, humid feeling during wear afterwards.

Corrections: Pecard's Never Leak, not Wet, but mostly to add "hot" to the effect of treatment on the boots and gloves, and I am NOT someone who ever has problems with hot feet while riding. Of course, my treatment involved slathering the item down with the product, putting it in a black trash bag, and leaving it in the FL sun for a few hours to achieve maximum penetration :)bom_laugh4:).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,018 Posts
I followed the NikWax machine wash instructions and the process was simple. I just hung mine to dry.
What about the new waterproofing never wet from Rustoleum? I think my toe finally wore a hole in the water proof liner of my Sidi boots and they got my sock a bit damp. I use Camp Dry on the gloves and boots...when I think of it.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top