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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Are you just wanting running lights or brake lights or both? Oh course they will sell you an expensive wire :)
All I wanted was brake lights and charging, until I realized that Admore could add a tail light. I'd spring for that, so am re-evaluating, even though I already bought the Givi brake light kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well I have the Givi V56 you would be really surprised at the connector location.
look lower right front. I didn't like the connector that mounts on the rack.It is a 90' connector sent from AdMore Lighting. it was convenient as it travels a short distance and is below the seat. I have better photos somewhere but here you go. If interested I could find the complete install with inside photos.

View attachment 294632
I been talking with Admore since your post here. I've been impressed with their service so far. They do have a right angle connector (which yours might be too, but it's hard to see), and they offered to sell me an extra 3-conductor passthrough for $40. Against the hassle of building my own, I decided to buy it, along with their light kit for the V56.

I'll let you know how it works out and will post pics. Thank you!
 

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Clunky and goofy reporting in!



I went with the simple "drill hole in case floor, rubber grommet and hope for the best" approach.

There is also a plastic clip on exterior of case (just out of frame to upper right) to hold the power wire when the case is off the bike, so that it doesn't get stepped on, crushed, or otherwise mangled.

This is a different top case than yours though, a Kappa K48 left over from my old Vee.

It's not the most elegant setup. I have a wire on the other side for the GPS antenna for my dashcam (left of below photo). Unavoidable, it has to sit on the lid of the top case unfortunately. I tried other locations, but it didn't track GPS consistently. Had to be out in the open.



I'm not powering as much stuff in the "trunk" though. Just using the red lens in the lid of the case as an extra brake light. No charging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Clunky and goofy reporting in!
:ROFLMAO: BTDT. And isn't it annoying how easily blocked those GPS signals seem to be? (I know, #firstworldproblems)

By the way, some years ago I graduated from electrical tape to this stuff:


Very professional looking, super durable, excellent abrasion resistance, easy to change and maintain.
 

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I been talking with Admore since your post here. I've been impressed with their service so far. They do have a right angle connector (which yours might be too, but it's hard to see), and they offered to sell me an extra 3-conductor passthrough for $40. Against the hassle of building my own, I decided to buy it, along with their light kit for the V56.

I'll let you know how it works out and will post pics. Thank you!
It is right angle and it is I think 5 conductor.
 

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Yeah, there are lots of those, but SAE connectors are too bulky for the space I'm working in.
The other prob have with those SAE panel connectors is the screws. Look at 'em. Use them and then you either have sharp points on the inside of the top case, or have to find some combination of washers and acorn nuts to make them not-sharp. Or find different hardware altogether. That's one reason I didn't use them for my setup.
 

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:ROFLMAO: BTDT. And isn't it annoying how easily blocked those GPS signals seem to be? (I know, #firstworldproblems)

By the way, some years ago I graduated from electrical tape to this stuff:


Very professional looking, super durable, excellent abrasion resistance, easy to change and maintain.
Yep, that stuff would be a big upgrade.

I wish they sold it at Harbor Freight. All they stock is the plastic ribbed stuff (looks kinda like culvert pipe only plastic). It does protect the wire (I have some on the GPS cable, not sure if visible in photo) but it slides along the cable and is really stiff.
 

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Just as an alternative to the stuff already mentioned, have you ever taken a trip to a military surplus store and checked out the various connectors they sell from obsolete military equipment? When I was in the Army back in the 80's, just about every piece of electrical hardware had thread-on gasketed multi pin cables that were waterproof. Lots of them were made with flanges so they could be panel mounted. The connectors are extremely durable and offer a very secure connection, but one that's easy to disconnect (usually by just unscrewing a collar). Many of them, like the ones used in comm equipment, are going to have far more pins that you'd ever need and weren't designed to carry a large load, but they'd probably be fine for an LED lighting system.

Here's a website that sells these type connectors. There are a lot to choose from: Mil-Spec & Circular Connectors

You could also check on eBay, and search for "military connectors". There are a ton of options there. I can't say for sure you'll find a suitable one, but it's another place to look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I wish they sold it at Harbor Freight. All they stock is the plastic ribbed stuff (looks kinda like culvert pipe only plastic). It does protect the wire (I have some on the GPS cable, not sure if visible in photo) but it slides along the cable and is really stiff.
Yeah, I used that stiff plastic loom on the '08. It worked ok. In the ensuing 13 years, I discovered the better, much more flexible stuff.
 

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This is the stuff that I use for sheathing on vehicle related wiring jobs:


Not quite as easy to use as the split loom, since you have to feed the wire through the sheathing, but it's not nearly as bulky as the split loom stuff. Makes it easier to fish the sheathed wire through tight spaces on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Not quite as easy to use as the split loom, since you have to feed the wire through the sheathing, but it's not nearly as bulky as the split loom stuff. Makes it easier to fish the sheathed wire through tight spaces on the bike.
That's a point I forgot to mention - the flexible mesh stuff can also be split or not split. The not-split stuff, I avoided for years, because it's hard to feed and impossible to maintain or modify once the connectors are attached. I didn't know until recently that it was possible to get both mesh and split.

This stuff is mesh, flexible, and split:

 

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I failed to mention thatI didn't like the Givi built in connector for the rack. I used a multipin connector male and female, the connector is below the top rack and I have releasable sticky mounting bases .

If you look closely, green heat shrink, my wire for the AdMore Light bar goes into and out of that green heat shrink, I can unplug in two minutes and remove the case. The same could be done, from the underside, using a 3 or 4 wire electrical cord, they make push-in cord locks like you see on small appliances.
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Vehicle Bumper






Sewing machine Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Office equipment


 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well I have the Givi V56 you would be really surprised at the connector location.
look lower right front. I didn't like the connector that mounts on the rack.It is a 90' connector sent from AdMore Lighting. it was convenient as it travels a short distance and is below the seat. I have better photos somewhere but here you go. If interested I could find the complete install with inside photos.

View attachment 294632
Just thought I'd share this chuckle - I noticed this yesterday:

Grille Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive exterior


Notice the scuffs in the lower right? That's from my boot when dismounting - exactly where your connector is. :LOL: I'd trash it in no time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I failed to mention thatI didn't like the Givi built in connector for the rack.
Yes - that was one of my stated reasons for this project. I lived with their stock pressure contact on my E52 long enough to know that it's a crappy design. It has no wiping action, so contaminants and moisture quickly make it unreliable, requiring constant cleaning. Givi should have done better.
 

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Glad I didn't bother importing an official lighting kit for my Kappa K48 top case. An electrical connection that relies only on pressure and is not waterproof or dustproof is subpar.

I ordered a roll of that flexible mesh looming. It will be a pain to remove all the electrical tape and adhesive residue, but the new stuff will be a lot better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Glad I didn't bother importing an official lighting kit for my Kappa K48 top case. An electrical connection that relies only on pressure and is not waterproof or dustproof is subpar.
Yeah, it's good enough for awhile, but I got sick of maintaining it after a few years, and gave up on it and went my own way.

I modified the old E52 quite a bit. I converted the incandescent bulbs to LED on my own -- soldered in the LEDs and added resistors, while simultaneously lowering their light output to turn the brake lamps into tail lamps. Also added a charging port back there. I never got around to doing anything elegant with the connector; I just dropped the cable out of Givi's cutout in the bottom. That was ok on the '08, where that cutout was pretty well protected from water, but on the '21, that port gets a lot of splashing from the rear wheel (probably due to the ineffective mudguard on this bike).

I ordered a roll of that flexible mesh looming. It will be a pain to remove all the electrical tape and adhesive residue, but the new stuff will be a lot better.
Honestly, you could probably just put it over the tape and leave it at that. You'd get all the same benefits, except that your cable will be a lot stiffer (if that matters) due to the tape, and of course you'll have to tear it apart if you ever want to modify it. Otherwise, no one would be the wiser. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I been talking with Admore since your post here. I've been impressed with their service so far. They do have a right angle connector (which yours might be too, but it's hard to see), and they offered to sell me an extra 3-conductor passthrough for $40.
Oh wow. I received these today, and Admore's connector is by far the most compact and versatile that I've seen. The angled portion of the plug protrudes only 1 1/8", and it appears to latch firmly and easily. I should have no trouble locating these under the trunk in one of the gaps in the rack, with just enough slack to facilitate connection/disconnection.

It was totally worth the $40. Exactly the right solution. I'll post pics when I get them mounted - maybe this weekend.
 
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