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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know a good source for locking waterproof panel connectors? I want to build a custom power passthrough for a top case. It needs to connect underneath the trunk in a tight space, so probably needs to be a right angle or very small. I need a minimum of three conductors, preferably four. Most of the gadgets sold for this purpose (like Tecmate) are either SAE or barrel connectors, which won't work; they are too bulky to work in a confined area, and don't lock in place.

An example of exactly the kind of connector I'm after is the fuel pump connector on the underside of the tank of my 2021 DL650.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I could also consider a pigtailed connector outside the case, and just pass it through with a strain relief. Something like these might work well:


Other ideas welcome.
 

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7 pin

HangTon SD20 7 Pin 10A Connector Aviation Circular Waterproof IP68 Right Angle Plug Panel Socket 15 Amp for LED Lighting Power Automotive Devices

also 4 pin
 
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Just the right word works wonders!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I use the ones sold by denali. you can purchase one at a time
Thank you; those look useful (and inexpensive).

I'm still looking over the options from expanding my search ("bulkhead" was the right word!). The HangTon connector looks great, but I can't find connector body dimensions, and it looks pretty large, which might be a problem. I only have about an inch of vertical space to work with. It's looking more likely that I may have to go the pigtail route.

The problem I'm trying to solve is that Givi's SRA3112 kit doesn't provide a brake light connection option. I could use a different plate, but I don't want to spend another bunch of money on a plastic plate; and besides, Givi's brake light contacts are a poor design and are unreliable (they are pressure contacts, no wiping action, so moisture, contamination, and corrosion are always an issue). There's enough room under the case and plate for me to drill and mount my own connector, if it's small enough; and while I'm at it, I want constant power for charging gadgets in the trunk (hence the need for at least 3, preferably four, pins).

If I were willing to put the connector in a visible location outside the plate, I could use any size connector I want, but it'd be dopey and clunky looking.
 

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Well I have the Givi V56 you would be really surprised at the connector location.
look lower right front. I didn't like the connector that mounts on the rack.It is a 90' connector sent from AdMore Lighting. it was convenient as it travels a short distance and is below the seat. I have better photos somewhere but here you go. If interested I could find the complete install with inside photos.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Automotive lighting
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I have the Givi V56 you would be really surprised at the connector location.
look lower right front. I didn't like the connector that mounts on the rack.It is a 90' connector sent from AdMore Lighting. it was convenient as it travels a short distance and is below the seat. I have better photos somewhere but here you go. If interested I could find the complete install with inside photos.

View attachment 294632
Yeah, that does look tidy. I considered a seat-side mount as well, but I can guarantee I'd kick the crap out of it with my boot swinging my leg over, or my pillion woud. I had to nix that location on those grounds. :(
 

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i don't have a side view handy, but if you look, the hinge support extends further over the seat than the connector, if I had a regular rider, I would install a seat back cushion to the lower part of the case. It has been there 6 years, I have the equivalent of size 13, trust me, when I install things, I consider what I have broken in the past.
 
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I just have my wires fed through the bottom of the box and the SAE connector is under the seat.

The wires are covered with heat shrink, they can hardly be seen and are protected by the rack.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just have my wires fed through the bottom of the box and the SAE connector is under the seat.

The wires are covered with heat shrink, they can hardly be seen and are protected by the rack.
That's essentially what I did for years with the E52. I knocked out Givi's crappy connector and just dropped the wire through. I'd like to make it a tad more elegant (and waterproof -- I sometimes got splashing through there) this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
i don't have a side view handy, but if you look, the hinge support extends further over the seat than the connector, if I had a regular rider, I would install a seat back cushion to the lower part of the case.
Oh - no, that wasn't apparent. That does sound perfect, in that case. (See what I did there?)

Making a back rest double as a connector protector is definitely worth consideration - thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
i don't have a side view handy, but if you look, the hinge support extends further over the seat than the connector, if I had a regular rider, I would install a seat back cushion to the lower part of the case. It has been there 6 years, I have the equivalent of size 13, trust me, when I install things, I consider what I have broken in the past.
Oh ... wow. I just realized this exists: https://admorelighting.com/product/ledv56-t-ts/?v=7516fd43adaa

It's not clear whether I could tap that for charging power in the trunk. Depends on whether they are delivering 12v to the trunk or have resistors upstream. If it's 12v to the trunk, I am definitely working too hard on this ...

edit: I contacted Admore to see if they can tell me whether they are sending 12v to the trunk. If so, I can use their tail lamp lead, and I'm done.
 

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I just completed a similar project using these:


I ran them from the battery with a inline fuse and permanently ran two sets into my rear givi box. It works good and now when I am on the road I can charge my radio,headlamp,charging batteries ,etc. I have other USB charging capability in the front for my Ipad and Iphone. I am always boondocking and camping where there is no power to charge things up so I had to be creative.
 

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Oh I almost forgot... the power that will easy disconnect from the Givi box allowing me to remove the Givi box runs to two of these:


That allows me to charge 4 USB devices in the Givi trunk. Is that what you are thinking? I think this year I will be taking a small solar panel that will help while I am staying put in one place for 3 or 4 days and or I might put another batter permanently mounted in the Givi box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That allows me to charge 4 USB devices in the Givi trunk. Is that what you are thinking?
That's the idea, yeah. There are lots of pigtail options like that. Did you just feed the wire through a hole and silicone it shut?

I got by with just dropping a wire through the Givi brake light cutout on an E52 for over 10 years, and only when I moved it to my '21 Wee did it start to let water in (the case hangs off the back of the bike just a bit farther, and the mudguard on this bike is shorter than the other one - so it's flipping water up against the underside of the case, so now I need to rethink that).
 

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I drilled a hole in the bottom of the Givi (I know that's scary...lol) but then I used rubber grommets to seal the hole and let the wires in. Should be water proof as it is on the bottom. I used a set of the plus just to get power under the seat and I could plus stuff in there or.... I ran another set that goes just underneath my Givi rack that stops there. The case has the plugs permenently mounted so when I put the case on I just plug in the plugs and volla....theres power in the case. These are suppose to be waterproof and for the price you can't beat them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
edit: I contacted Admore to see if they can tell me whether they are sending 12v to the trunk. If so, I can use their tail lamp lead, and I'm done.
Admore replied that their controller would not be happy about the extra current draw, so tapping their tail lamp lead would be a no-go. I reckon I could get around that a number of ways, possibly by adding a relay between their controller and the trunk and using my own power feed, but that's starting to sound like a hassle (not to mention extra bulk and complexity).

They did of course offer to sell me a second set of leads, but theirs are awfully expensive.
 
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