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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
"Thunderdownunder feel free to chime in"

Manufactures have gone away from cast Iron engines to light weight Aluminium. Aluminium motors require corrosion protection even more than Cast Iron, which forms its own protection by "rusting". Cast motors where fine with Glycol which inhibited excessive rust scale even with "hard" mineralised (tap) water. Early aluminium motors and even worse Aluminium heads on cast blocks caused major problems (aka 1987 VL commodores with the Nissan motor) Electrolisis simply ate away the water jackets and then came the warning light, empty radiator and steam. For Alulminium motors OAT coolants are better
"The fatty acids used in OAT are also generally more kind to the engine than the old mineral-based versions. The old corrosive-protectants often dissolved aluminum pieces, eating them away over time because of aluminum’s peculiar composition, but OAT coolants do not, lowering the build up of aluminum deposits and other similar problems. Also, OAT coolants are better for the water pump and do not interfere with the lubrication of the water pump system, whereas the older coolants would wear away lubrication and require even more additives to maintain a proper balance. OAT coolants are also compatible across a wide range of engines, and different brands can work with different engines without trouble.

OAT coolants are based on completely different chemistry from older coolants. Instead of using mineral-based additives like borate, nitrite or phosphate to protect the metals of the engine, OAT coolants use a combination of carboxylic and fatty acids instead. This removes the need to add silicate compounds–indeed, it removes silicate compounds completely so coolant no longer needs to be tested or bolstered by continuous additives. This allows the coolant to last for about 6 years (or 600,000 miles) before needing to be replaced.

There are newer versions of these coolants known as hybrid OAT (HOAT) which combine the fatty acids with other chemicals and minerals to help the coolant take effective more quickly, since the main drawback to OAT is that it slows down the reactive time of the coolant.

The main thing, as I stated is if you want to change coolant type then flush well to remove all traces of old coolant as they have additives like Borat and silicates in them that can have a severe reaction with other chemicals in the new coolant. Before refilling with new coolant blow out as much Tapwater as you can and use PH neutral De- Mineralised water only as a mixer. Bleed the system fully so cavitation does not occur (Cavitation can cause major damage to impellor pumps and seals).

in conclusion : OAT or HOAT will be superior for a Vstrom (Aluminium motor and radiator)and will last for the life of the Bike. ALL Japanese and EU manufactures now use the Organic coolants because they are bio degradable and last for life. Water pumps will last for the life of the bearing. P.S. If your motor is cast Iron and has a solder/ copper core radiator continue with Glycol as its additives will keep it clean as long as you change it as specified.

Finally some good reading if you want the whole story
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