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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for an easy-to-access key-on relay trigger lead that's handy to the under-seat/battery area. I was thinking about the heated grip connector, but it seems like it's buried up around the radiator, and I don't have the $7 horn lead pigtail (no one has it locally and I'm too impatient to wait for shipment). I'm considering the license plate light lead (don't know how hard it is to access), but is there something else available to tap into under the seat?

Thanks,

Stan.
 

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License plate light is what I used. Pull the side pods (with the DLxxx stickers on them. One bolt at the front of each and a couple of pop-rivet-thingys), pull the luggage rack, take out the two screws at the rear of the fender, pull the fender back, and unplug the electrical connection. Takes about 5 minutes.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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There is a sheathed cable on the left side of the under seat pan in the rear. The brown wire in there is the taillight lead. Besides the fact it's right where I need it and easily accessible, I like using that because it is hot when the ignition switch is in park as well as when on. I have a disconnect on the wire I spliced in so if I'm actually going to use the parking light for some reason, I can disconnect the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There is a sheathed cable on the left side of the under seat pan in the rear. The brown wire in there is the taillight lead. Besides the fact it's right where I need it and easily accessible, I like using that because it is hot when the ignition switch is in park as well as when on. I have a disconnect on the wire I spliced in so if I'm actually going to use the parking light for some reason, I can disconnect the relay.
Pat,

Nice. I think this is the option I'll pursue. I'm looking at a schematic and it appears the brown wire you speak of in that bundle goes back to the taillight connector and joins to the grey wires in the license plate and tail lights.

I guess the brakelight wire (white/black) would be fine, but I'd find myself wanting to apply the brakes all the time so I could warm up my hands.

Stan.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Pat,

Nice. I think this is the option I'll pursue. I'm looking at a schematic and it appears the brown wire you speak of in that bundle goes back to the taillight connector and joins to the grey wires in the license plate and tail lights.

I guess the brakelight wire (white/black) would be fine, but I'd find myself wanting to apply the brakes all the time so I could warm up my hands.

Stan.
I think the brown wire becomes a green wire on the other side of the connector. I'd have to look to make sure whether the Gr in the schematic is green or grey.
 

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Pat,

Nice. I think this is the option I'll pursue. I'm looking at a schematic and it appears the brown wire you speak of in that bundle goes back to the taillight connector and joins to the grey wires in the license plate and tail lights.

I guess the brakelight wire (white/black) would be fine, but I'd find myself wanting to apply the brakes all the time so I could warm up my hands.

Stan.
You could use the tail light wire and not the brake light wire. I just undo the right side tail light since it has longer wiring to work with (did anyway to put in LED bulbs) and use a posi-tap which makes the job simple even for me. Here is a link to the posi-taps etc.

http://www.posi-lock.com/index.html

JDP
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Peering back into the tail section, past where the factory toolkit goes, there's a bundle of four grey wires ganged together with a factory crimp connector. These lead to the running lights and license plate light. I tapped into one of these with the splice connector that came with the Symtec grip heaters, and ran a trigger wire forward, in the space between the toolkit area and the rear port body panel. I always use a little anti-corrosion compound with my crimp connectors. Worked like a charm. Now I've got an available trigger source for whatever relay I want to install. I'm using the Blue Sea 5025 fuse block unrelayed, so will end up with a few relays for the various toys -- grip heaters, Stebel horn, etc. If there were room for two 5025s, it would be nice to have one relay-controlled and one not. Alas there is not enough space.

I completed the install of the grip heaters and made it all pretty. Now I want to try it out, but the weather won't permit. Yet. But soon!

Stan.
 

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It is very easy to access the taillight wires. I have some picks taken, but have been to lazy to get them on the net. Will try to do it this evening while the wife is in class.

Take off the rear luggage rack (Only four bolts). Next their are two screws on the side of the rear fender, remove those. Now pull the fender off and just flip it upside down and rest it on top of the bike. This takes 10 minutes tops. The fender will be hard to get off at first, just spread from teh sides and it will slide off.

All of the rear wires are there. Grey are the + wires for the rear lighting. There is a single grey wire that goes into a translucent plastc cap, then has a bunch of grey coming out. I carefully cut the end off, then flattened out the crimp, attached a female blade connecter, electrical tape, and you have your switched lead.

Like I said I will try to get some pics up tonight, and right up a fuse box installation that shows all of this. Hopefully I will get the mount for my GPS in soon so I can get that wired up and post a how-to for it also.
 

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I'm looking for an easy-to-access key-on relay trigger lead that's handy to the under-seat/battery area. I was thinking about the heated grip connector, but it seems like it's buried up around the radiator, and I don't have the $7 horn lead pigtail (no one has it locally and I'm too impatient to wait for shipment). I'm considering the license plate light lead (don't know how hard it is to access), but is there something else available to tap into under the seat?

Thanks,

Stan.
The easiest way is to tap into the brown wire before the rear tail light plug with one of these http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html
 
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