I went with Wilbers progressive springs and love the result.
Wirth, and Progressive also make springs for the 1000.
Sonic makes a spring also but it is not progressive.
Any will be a major improvement.
At the risk of starting a religous war, I think it's the opinion of most suspension tuners that straight rate springs will give both a more comfortable ride and better handling than progressively wound ones will. A short explanation of why can be found here:
I recently install the Sonic Springs 0.9 straight wound spring and the recommended (by rich at sonic) 15w synthetic fork oil in my k5650.
I am extremely impressed by the change in ride quality and less front end dive when braking.
At first I was somewhat apprehensive of using such a heavy oil, when the oil that comes with the bike is only 8w. The only other improvement you can do is to install some cartridge emulators, which I have read good reports on. You would still need to upgrade the springs to gain full advantage.
installation was a snap. I just leaned the bike over abit and put a jack stand under the exhaust pipe. I also put a large vice grip on the side stand so it wouldnt fold up on me. I was actually very stable in this position.
Before you loosen your fork clamp bolts, crack loose the top fork cap. Makes it much easier than trying to loosen it once the fork is off.
You will also find that the front fender comes off easy if you first remove one of the forks.
It took me 1.5hrs to do the job.
It will take exactally 500cc of oil per fork leg, that is using the oil level measurement supplied by Sonic (for a 650 anyways).
I think you will be very happy with the upgrade.
I do not want to start any battles either, however I upgraded my 05' DL 1000 with Race-Tech straight rate springs and Gold Valve with their recommended very lightweight oil. I must say that this set-up works best under ALL conditions-fast canyon road, offroad, smooth or rough. The gold value adjusted to your riding ability and spring rate to your body weight is an unbeatable upgrade. It is a little pricey, but to me its worth it....
Big Difference........Had the OE Rim protectors changed to 607 Dunlops when I picked my 6Fiddy up.....Did about 300 miles (up the coast to Laguna Seca from San Diego) and ended up with a sidewall (non repairable) cut in the rear. Changed to 020's and did the coast back to San Diego.
Not even the same bike. Predictable controllable slides can be induced front or rear. No sudden loss of traction. Very smooth and lots of seat-of-the-pants feedback. Really sensational in the wet.
I have searched the internet and this site and cant find an answer to my question that works for me. My07 DL1000 will stall and run very crappy after rides of over 25 miles or so, usually i just use it for commuting to work (7 miles) so its a non issue on most days.It has a PC III on...
Anybody like the old caddys with the tail fins?? Well here is my new set of signal lights, havnt decided whether to put them on the front or rear. They are from an old transport rig, they are 16" long and IMHO very cool!
What do you all think?
I have recently installed some new suspension upgrades. I was not happy with the OEM front diving too much under heavy braking, even with full preload dialed in. I was also unimpressed with the OEM rear shock being too soft, even with full preload dialed. This was especially true when riding...
I'm going to have to buy or fabricate some sort of tool tube/tool box to fit with the OEM miniscule side cases. I'm just beginning my search so I thought I would post a thread of inquiry to see if anybody here has come up with any good ideas. There are a plethora of great ideas for the larger...
Ok so, I don't normally do this on any of the forums I'm a part of, but I had such a positive experience with the Heed products I purchased for my wee I just had to share it. If any of you are looking for crash bars, skid plate or a center stand I definitely recommend at least giving these guys...
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