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Okay, so now I'm totally embarrassed. My bike has a castellated nut and did not come with a cotter pin. I thought there was some magic I didn't understand!

My previous bike was a Honda VFR that has a single sided swingarm and four car-type lug nuts.

This bike's axle must have a hole for a cotter pin, and I've just missed it! 50,000 kilometers... Shudder.
We all learn something with some regularity.
Doesn't hurt to be lucky.
 

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I have a vague recollection of the venerated GW answering the which way question. He liked installing from right to left because it seemed easier to get all the parts to line up. I've followed suit and have it that way.
 

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I have a vague recollection of the venerated GW answering the which way question. He liked installing from right to left because it seemed easier to get all the parts to line up. I've followed suit and have it that way.
Yup I did the same as well, so easy to install the rear wheel and put the shaft through, I don't see how it makes any real world difference which side the nut/shaft goes in/on.
 

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With both my stroms after removing the rear wheel for the first time I fitted the nut to the left side.

I found the wheel much easier to fit if I push the axel bolt into the swingarm and brake calliper first.

It stays in place and holds everything in place while I fit the wheel, also being right handed I'm able to manipulate the axel easier.
 
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Okay, so now I'm totally embarrassed. My bike has a castellated nut and did not come with a cotter pin. I thought there was some magic I didn't understand!

My previous bike was a Honda VFR that has a single sided swingarm and four car-type lug nuts.

This bike's axle must have a hole for a cotter pin, and I've just missed it! 50,000 kilometers... Shudder.
So... my embarrassment gets worse. My 2010 650 has the Fujilox nut!! That's why I've never missed putting the pin in. But my riding partner's 2007 has the castellated nut, and I've stared at that one and helped with mid-trip brake jobs. Right, Polarbear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So... my embarrassment gets worse. My 2010 650 has the Fujilox nut!! That's why I've never missed putting the pin in. But my riding partner's 2007 has the castellated nut, and I've stared at that one and helped with mid-trip brake jobs. Right, Polarbear?
Ohhh dear :rolleyes: ...can you check AGAIN :LOL:

...also are you sure your bike is 650 ?...can you pls check ;)
 
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Be aware that the self locking nut is considered a one-use item. Dealers are supposed to replace it whenever they pull an axle, and its not cheap!
I learned about this when after 50,000 km and a few tyre changes/chain adjustments I arrived home from a ride and noticed the nut and adjuster plate were both missing.
The adjuster plate was unavailable/made of unobtanium, so I cut one out of a bit of square 3mm wall RHS and bought a new nut, but I'm keeping a close eye on it. If I use it more than a couple of times its getting a dab of locktite. (I'm an axle in from the right guy)
 
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There are many threads (no pun intended) about problems with the rear axle nuts. Do a search on this forum and you can find them easily. One problem with the old-style castellated nuts was the original torque value listed was too high, and people were stripping the nuts/axle threads. SOMEWHERE ON THIS FORUM THERE IS A THREAD LISTING THE REDUCED TORQUE VALUE. On a castellated nut, the threads in the castellated area don't really supply much strength due to the missing surface area, so the real strength of the nut is in the threaded area BELOW the castellations. Going to a full-depth self-locking nut helps this situation. Self-locking fasteners in general are to be considered one-time usage although tha's not always specified and a lot of people reuse them without ill effects, but not recommended. When I was an airplane mechanic in an earlier life, it was a big no-no but a lot of guys still did it.
 
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If one prefers the cheapo castellated nut, you can scrounge one or buy one. Install it how you want and then drill a hole in the axle.

Boom, you're castellated.

I am assuming the thread on the two systems is the same.
 
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