Nicely configured bike
Fluids
Fork Seals
Chain and sprockets
Warped/cracked wheels
by this time the brake fluid should have been flushed twice. If the brake fluid is dark, you may end up with a sticking caliper at some point.
coolant should have been flushed once. It is blue long life stuff and the reservoir is under the seat. If it looks messy in the reservoir, there may be stuff in the radiator restricting flow.
sprockets and chain, when worn expect the teeth to be a little hook shaped. If the links don’t return to the straight position in relation to one another after the wheel turns, the chain isn’t properly cleaned and lubed. May just need to be cleaned or lubed, or may have premature wear. If you hear occasional popping from the chain when accelerating or decelerating, it is probably shot.
fork seals and wheels - if it has been ridden hard off road, a wheel -could- be damaged. It isn’t common, but it does happen with hard off road riding. Similarly, one of my fork seals went bad at ~35,000 u.s. miles, after a moderate amount of rough off road riding. You should probably check the rear for leakage too.
motor oil - put it on the center stand, look at the oil color and level through the witness window on the right side of the crankcase. If it is like honey, with no milkiness hejust changed it, dark brown is probably 8,000km or less, black longer. A few bubbles may occur if it has been sitting, and you run it on a short test drive. The witness glass may fog if it has been sitting, it is cold out and you take it for a short test ride. After 20-30 minutes of cold weather riding, and you run the engine past 5k rpm for awhile, the fog and bubbles should definitely be gone. If the oil is milky, you have other problems.
With that number of miles, the motor is just getting broken in. My bike’s fuel efficiency improved significantly after 40,000 miles U.S.
head tube bearing. Put the bike on the center stand, put a lot of weight in the rear top box or have someone sit in the back of the seat so therear wheel is on the ground and the front wheel is elevated. Center the handle bars, and with the slightest push to one side, they should fall freely from center to that bar stop with no binding, repeat in the other direction. Also, with the bike in that position pull fore and aft on the front wheel. The forks shouldn’t move fore or aft at all. It is not uncommon for the head tube bearings to be improperly torqued.
There was a stator recall on this model. I can’t tell you an easy way to verify voltage.
I hope all this doesn’t scare you off. I spend very little time and money on maintenance for the amount I ride my bike 2015 DL650.