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Until we meet again
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Discussion Starter #1
I've loaded up the bike with enough electrical accessories that it's obvious some things need to be shut off to keep the bike health. The big draws include Tourmaster Synergy gloves and vest, Oxford heated grips and 70watts worth of running lights. When the bike has no additional load the meter is usually reading 14.2 volts. As I start adding greater loads on the system the voltage begins to drop. My question is what should I be watching for on the volt meter when riding along at 4000 rpm? How low do I allow the voltage to drop before needing to turn off accessories?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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12.6-12.8V, depending on the accuracy of the meter and any drop in the lines, is the minimum to keep the battery charging.
 

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Hi

I see you have added running lights, what size are these in Watts? I added a set of PIAAs, both together an added 110W to the system. To allow this, I also installed a headlight cut off switch, so when I want the Aux lights, flick the switch, one headlight drops out and instantly 55W extra available to run the Aux lights.

Maybe try that?

Cheers
TravellingStrom
 

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Until we meet again
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Discussion Starter #4
Hi

I see you have added running lights, what size are these in Watts? I added a set of PIAAs, both together an added 110W to the system. To allow this, I also installed a headlight cut off switch, so when I want the Aux lights, flick the switch, one headlight drops out and instantly 55W extra available to run the Aux lights.
I added these running lights and swapped the bulbs for 35w. Interesting idea about running a cutoff switch for a headlight. I don't think I'll need to go that far just yet. I'm able to run a combination of gear as needed and stay above the minimum Greywolf mentioned. If it gets too close I'll probably just pull the wire on one of the running lights for the winter.
 

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The headlight cut out switch and harness was cheap, about $30 from memory and it is a simple plug and play with the old headlight connector.

Cheers
TS
 

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Measure your load in watts. From memory the 07 and earlier Wee's have about 125 watts of spare capacity, the 08's and newer have more.
I'm sure somebody will chime in with the exact figures.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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'08s and newer have another 25W. The whole charging thing is very dynamic. 100-125W is the figure normally given for excess capacity on '07s and earlier but watching the voltmeter is the way to tell what's going on. I like the idea of losing one headlight before a running light if the light output is sufficient. That preserves the triangle of light which aids position identification.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The headlight cut out switch and harness was cheap, about $30 from memory and it is a simple plug and play with the old headlight connector.
I've never seen a pre-wired harness/switch combo. Do you have a source handy?
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Until we meet again
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Discussion Starter #10
Should have guessed it would be Eastern Beaver. I have their horn harness on the 650 and really like it. Just wish I had enough room on the handle bars for their good looking switch. Between the GPS and grip warmer switch just can't make that one fit. Have to use one of the others with my own switch somewhere. Thanks.
 

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Call me an :mod2_asshole: but it doesn't make sense to me to disable one of the headlights so that I can run a set of $50 running lights. Are we farkling just for farklings sake.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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One of the greatest benefits of running lights is to provide a triangle of lights to be seen by other vehicle operators. Two running lights mounted low and to the sides provides that with a single headlight. A triangle of light helps others judge the distance and speed of that triangle as it changes in size. Lights help us be seen as well as to see.
 

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Call me an :mod2_asshole: but it doesn't make sense to me to disable one of the headlights so that I can run a set of $50 running lights. Are we farkling just for farklings sake.
Just for the record, my lights cost a bit more than $50, try $250 imported to OZ. The light quality and distance is what I need at night, because down here the damm kangaroos need to be seen a long way away as they change direction for no reason.

I also have a lot of other electronics on my bike as well as heated grips etc, so I prefer to have one headlight switched out if running the lights for a long period.

Horses for courses.

Cheers
TravellingStrom
 

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Until we meet again
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Discussion Starter #14
Just for the record, my lights cost a bit more than $50, try $250 imported to OZ. The light quality and distance is what I need at night, because down here the damm kangaroos need to be seen a long way away as they change direction for no reason.
Kangaroos sound a lot like deer. I only spent $20 for lights, but the deer are so plentiful that I don't even consider riding after dark.
 
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