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Discussion Starter #1
One of the best (and cheapest !) things I've done to Suzy are these clear indicator lenses from Custom Dynamics part no CTS-0009 - they really fit in with the rest of the bike now. I ordered the chrome coated bulbs, but they're just too dim, fortunately the clear covers come with orange bulbs. Quick delivery too - recommemded.




LED bulbs next - anyone found a 'clean' way to fix the flash rate problem ?

James.
 

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You're bike looks great! question......are the turn signals less/more/same noticeable with the clear lenses? Also, how do you like the MRA shield?
 

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RubberDown said:
You're bike looks great! question......are the turn signals less/more/same noticeable with the clear lenses? Also, how do you like the MRA shield?
I have the same setup and I also tried the chrome coated bulbs and Sylvania Silverstar bulbs.

The chrome coated are noticeably dimmer than regular amber bulbs.

The silverstar are just as bright but are blue when unlit, amber when lit.
If you like the blue look, they are really good.

I opted for the regular amber bulbs and clear lenses which are just as bright and visible as the stock setup. The color of the blue bulbs next to my blue bodywork looked a little disco. IMHO. Hope this helps.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Hi !

As SpeedStar says, the orange bulb / clear lens setup is a good as stock (but still not bright enough in my opinion), and I'll probably leave it like that until I sort out some LED's. The chrome bulbs look good, but are just too dim (pictures of them are on my gallery - just follow the link in my sig). They reminded me of my first bike - a Honda MT50 - and its very dodgy power system...

The MRA screen is a big improvement over the stock screen, but I'm still fiddling with it (I'm 6ft tall, 32 leg) I think I'll move it down to the middle position again, and then add some spacers to the bottom to increase the rake..
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I ordered my clear lenses several days ago along with the chrome bulbs. I'll let you know my verdict when I get 'em.
 

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Handsome clear lenses. Anything that will help the turn signals become brighter is a good thing. Thanks for the tip.

Lots of aftermarket "fashion bulbs" have LESS light output than stock bulbs so be careful you don't actually decrease the amount of light you're trying to preserve or increase. Many fashion bulbs also run very hot and therefore have short service lives, so beware. Top shelf bulbs like PIAA can be trusted to put out more light and are very well-made. PIAA offers a one year warranty on their bulbs.

I was really surprised to see our turn signals have no reflectors in the lamp housings. That's pretty hard to justify. What's up with THAT Suzuki??
I took a low tech approach to improving this which costs almost nothing.

Remove the lens, the bulb, and the little metal housing retainer clip. Put some aluminum foil over the open housing and rub it to transfer the pattern to the foil. Cut out the foil larger than the pattern and cut a small hole to clear the bulb socket. Tuck the foil, shiny side out, into the housing. Put it back together. Your turn signals are now much brighter. It really works.

If you want no-BS brighter than stock bulbs, get some PIAA 1156 bulbs.

Ride brightly!

Jeff
 
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Discussion Starter #7
The chrome bulbs are definitely not very bright. In fact, during the day they are hardly visible. I think I'll get some regular orange bulbs because I don't feel very safe with these installed.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I bought some chrome bulbs from Custom Dynamics and had the same experience, not very bright. I also bought a pair for another bike that uses 1157's (dual contact, like a DL tail bulb) and found the contacts on the base were not perpendicular to the little pins on the side that lock the bulb into the base, so the contacts didn't mate with the socket (i.e. they didn't work at all). There would be no similar problem with the 1156 types DL's use in turnsignals, but it's certainly an indication of some pretty sloppy manufacturing. I'm not dissing Custom Dynamics, they carry great stuff at great prices, but their chrome bulbs just don't cut it.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
As mentioned by MWValley, there are no reflectors in the stock signals. There are a couple of ways to remedy this. Aluminum foil works OK, but even better is 3M SOLAS tape. This is the stuff they use on the sides of fire engines and police cars. Unless you have your turn signals modified to stay on as running lights, you don't have to worry about the heat building up and melting the adhesive. The cheapest source I've found for SOLAS tape is Identi-Tape in Eugene, OR.

The method that I used on my 'Strom was to buy some cheap low-voltage 35w landscape lights at Lowe's and cannibalize them for the sockets and light bulbs. These lights use the same type of dichroic bulbs that expensive Motolights and PIAA lights use. With very little effort, the sockets can be inserted into the signal bodies. The difference is night and day. It's like using a 35 watt, pencil beam driving light for a turn signal. They are VERY visible at daytime, and almost painful to look directly at when it's dark out. I'll take one of my signals apart and snap some pics later. I've had this setup on my bike since December, and I've experienced no problems at all. Oh yeah, they flash at the correct rate without any mods to correct the speed.



I picked up the landscape lights on clearance for about $10.00 each, so the whole project cost me less than $50 for all 4 signals.

I suppose I could change over to the clear lenses (they do look really good.) I'd just have to insert an amber lense in front of the bulb inside the lense. The way they are right now, you can't tell that they aren't stock until I turn them on.
 

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Warhammer said:
As mentioned by MWValley, there are no reflectors in the stock signals. There are a couple of ways to remedy this. Aluminum foil works OK, but even better is 3M SOLAS tape. This is the stuff they use on the sides of fire engines and police cars. Unless you have your turn signals modified to stay on as running lights, you don't have to worry about the heat building up and melting the adhesive. The cheapest source I've found for SOLAS tape is Identi-Tape in Eugene, OR.

The method that I used on my 'Strom was to buy some cheap low-voltage 35w landscape lights at Lowe's and cannibalize them for the sockets and light bulbs. These lights use the same type of dichroic bulbs that expensive Motolights and PIAA lights use. With very little effort, the sockets can be inserted into the signal bodies. The difference is night and day. It's like using a 35 watt, pencil beam driving light for a turn signal. They are VERY visible at daytime, and almost painful to look directly at when it's dark out. I'll take one of my signals apart and snap some pics later. I've had this setup on my bike since December, and I've experienced no problems at all. Oh yeah, they flash at the correct rate without any mods to correct the speed.



I picked up the landscape lights on clearance for about $10.00 each, so the whole project cost me less than $50 for all 4 signals.

I suppose I could change over to the clear lenses (they do look really good.) I'd just have to insert an amber lense in front of the bulb inside the lense. The way they are right now, you can't tell that they aren't stock until I turn them on.
I did the same "mod" when I first got my 6Fiddy........
ACE had the bulbs in a 6-pak for 12 bucks (such a deal).
Initially I was concerned that vibration would kill the bulbs over time......8K (S)miles later, still working great. :D
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Landscaping bulbs? Okay guys...how about some photo documentation so we can try this at home! :lol:
 
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RiceRider said:
Landscaping bulbs? Okay guys...how about some photo documentation so we can try this at home! :lol:
My bike's in the shop getting the FI adjusted. As soon as I get it back. I'll snap some pics and post them.
 

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Brighter Signals

I just converted the rear signals to Halogen bulbs and they are very bright - hard to look at directly even in daylight. I got all the parts - bulbs and (not easy to find retail!) sockets from businesslights.com. Sockets for halogens are special - built for high temperatures - and rare. These guys have them. They have a very wide selection of bulbs. I chose to use 12 degree (angle of beam) 35Watt bulbs. They have bulbs in 12, 24, and 36 degrees for 20, 35, and 50 watts power. I think the 50w is too much. The installation went quickly - just cut off the old socket, trim the leads of the new socket, splice, solder, shrink tubing over each lead, and plug in the bulb. Actually, there was one tricky part. The bulbs are a wee bit too big to fit inside the signal assembly, so I had to nip off the edge of the cover glass on the bulb. It is very easy to do with a small pliers. After that, it just goes back together perfectly. They do not get hot and I haven't blown any fuses.

Socket part number 611501, bulbs 611322
 
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USMC V-STROMMER said:
Warhammer,
Is your bike still in the shop? How 'bout dem photo's!!!
OK Marine, ask and ye shall receive!
Pic of the socket wired into the stock signal housing. At the back of the housing you can see the three plastic fins that I had to trim to make the
socket fit. I soldered the connections and then used shrink tubing.

Pic of the socket installed in the housing. If you are careful when trimming the fins, it will snug back in there and stay in place without any need for
adhesive.

Pic of the 20 watt MR16 halogen bulb installed. No trimming of the bulb reflector or the housing is needed. The small metal slide-clip is not reused.

Everything closed up. (Don't worry about not using the metal clip, I've had this setup on mine for about 900 miles, with some pretty serious off-road,
and nothing has shaken loose.)

For comparison, a modified and stock signal (guess which is which).

Here is a modified light in operation. These are REALLY bright. Remember, these are the same bulbs used in PIAAs and $350 Motolights!
It is the MR16 bulb that makes these lights so effective, not anything PIAA or Motolight does. They just build the housing.

Your source for parts. These landscape lights are available at most hardware stores for $9.98 and contain the bulb and socket. Unlike most of
the sockets you buy from a lighting supply house, these are round sockets instead of rectangular. The rectangular sockets will not fit in the housing
as well, and you will have to trim the bulb itself to make it fit.


I hope this helps. This is a simple and cheap mod, and it makes a world of difference in the visibility of you signals.
 

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Heres a source for halogen bulbs and sockets

United Halogen Bulb Inc sells the bulbs and replacement sockets for two pin landscape lighting. Not much cheaper than buying a landscaping fixture and dismantling it for the socket and parts but it will save you the time.

Just enter United Halogen Bulb Inc on your favorite search engine and boom your there!
 
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Discussion Starter #17
That's good to know!

But then you miss out on the looks on the faces of others when you tell them that you installed landscape lighting on your bike! :p
 
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Discussion Starter #18
Don't you just need a resistor to slow down the LED signals? Flashers are load dependent and since the LEDs draw less power, it makes the flashers flash too fast. They are like $1.79 for 2 at Radio Shack. I don't know what OHM level you need....but that is how to do it, no? I think that maybe a 10 ohm resistor would do it? I dunno
 

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I've been wondering if adding a resistor in series would correct the signal rate for LED lights. But if it's that simple, then why do they sell those flash rate correction modules? Maybe it would get too hot? I don't know really, I'm just guessing. As far as sizing the resistor, I'd measure a regular light bulb with an ohm meter and match that.
 

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soylent green

JetJaguar said:
I've been wondering if adding a resistor in series would correct the signal rate for LED lights. But if it's that simple, then why do they sell those flash rate correction modules? Maybe it would get too hot? I don't know really, I'm just guessing. As far as sizing the resistor, I'd measure a regular light bulb with an ohm meter and match that.
hey jet, soylent green..... one of my favorite movies..... munch munch, dang those people taste good.... :roll:

Kaos
 
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