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Have you considered leaving off the crash bars while messing with the thrust adjusters?
I notices there was not a distinct "stop" when tightening the adjusters, torque did not increase significantly even after a couple of turns, so without a torque wrench I probably went somewhat higher than the Suzuki recommended 8.5 ft-lbs, but do not see how it will harm anything.
If bike is low miles, perhaps the moving parts need some more break in to settle down vibs?
Mark
 

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I had the crash bars off to access the thrust adjusters as the SW motech bars block access. However the longer bolts for the crash bars would be nearly bottoming out if I installed them into the brackets alone (without the crash bars). I don't have the factory bolts unfortunately but will be hitting up my dealer for them. I was at the lower end of my 3/8 torque wrench which was also not ideal although it was brand new. I will have another crack and report back.
 

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The problem with my SW motech crash bars is that they have to come off for access to do the adjustment. Then you have to re fit them and retorque the brackets which is not ideal. Trial and error.
Hey there. I'm the guy in the video you posted earlier, and I've been watching this thread to see what other people's experiences were. Sorry to hear your still fighting the vibrations. Having to remove the SW MOTECH crash bars to undue the thrust adjusters was the reason I didn't reshoot the entire process for the video--totally overlooked the fact I could have thrown the factory bolts back in while I was dialing it in as mpom I believe just suggested. That would really speed things up.

I'm curious about turning the engine over to let it "settle" as was previously mentioned in this thread while the engine bolts were loose and then torquing. Is there any danger in doing this? I still have a faint but distinct knock at 75-76mph in 6th gear (5600rpm). People that have ridden my bike say they don't notice it, but I do. I'm wondering if I should just accept a little vibration since I attached tuning forks to an internal combustion engine or if it's actually possible to get it to run as smooth as stock with crash bars on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I removed and re-torqued the upper thrust adjuster today. It was quite tight when I removed it, and my torque wrench only goes down to 20 Nm, so I adjusted it to a bit less than that.
The 93 Nm on the through bolt is a lot. I thought the bolt was going to break when I had to use that much force to tighten it.

I previously read this thread, where he removed all mounting bolts, re-positioned the engine to perfectly match the holes:
https://www.stromtrooper.com/maintenance-how/420461-motor-mount-reseat-retorque.html
I suspect he is overly thorough. Nothing wrong with that, but I'll try just re-torquing the thrust adjusters. That's advanced enough for me at the moment. :)

I wonder if I should loosen all bolts at the same time, to release any tension in the mounts?

I will give the lower thrust adjuster a go tomorrow. The through bolt was so tight I could not remove it. But I see that someone else had the same problem. I'll try the larger tools tomorrow. I just hope I won't break the bolt. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I managed to loosen the bolts. Both the lower through bolt and the thrust adjuster lock nut were really really tight.

None of the thrust adjusters were loose. Maybe too tight, if anything. I'll take a test ride later today to see if that made a difference.

I tried loosening both thrust adjusters at the same time (with the through bolt in loosely), but the engine did not move. I think you'd need to loosen the third motor mount bolt as well for the engine to move.
 

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I removed and re-torqued the upper thrust adjuster today. It was quite tight when I removed it, and my torque wrench only goes down to 20 N-m, so I adjusted it to a bit less than that.The 93 N-m on the through bolt is a lot. I thought the bolt was going to break when I had to use that much force to tighten it.
The through-bolt spec on my L4 DL650 is 65.5 lb-ft or 88.8 N-m so 93 N-m is a little high but maybe the spec is higher for your model.

I previously read this thread, where he removed all mounting bolts, re-positioned the engine to perfectly match the holes:
Motor Mount Reseat & Retorque
I suspect he is overly thorough. Nothing wrong with that, but I'll try just re-torquing the thrust adjusters.
That "he" would be me and in the immortal words of Adam Savage "Anything worth doing is worth overdoing". Do NOT remove all the bolts at the same time or the motor will drop. See my link below.

I wonder if I should loosen all bolts at the same time, to release any tension in the mounts?
Yes, you must do this to free the motor so it can be re-positioned in its cradle, i.e. in the frame, which is the main point of the whole procedure.

I will give the lower thrust adjuster a go tomorrow. The through bolt was so tight I could not remove it. But I see that someone else had the same problem. I'll try the larger tools tomorrow. I just hope I won't break the bolt. :)
I added a comment to my original thread to clarify the procedure: Addendum
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The through-bolt spec on my L4 DL650 is 65.5 lb-ft or 88.8 N-m so 93 N-m is a little high but maybe the spec is higher for your model.



That "he" would be me and in the immortal words of Adam Savage "Anything worth doing is worth overdoing". Do NOT remove all the bolts at the same time or the motor will drop. See my link below.



Yes, you must do this to free the motor so it can be re-positioned in its cradle, i.e. in the frame, which is the main point of the whole procedure.



I added a comment to my original thread to clarify the procedure: Addendum
Thanks a lot!

I noticed that the upper front bolt hole was not in the middle of the hole in the thrust adjuster. The lower back one seemed better positioned to me. So it seems like it could be adjusted a bit.

Just removing the bolts, and re-torquing everything, like I did, appears not to be enough for my bike. I'll try the more thorough procedure another day. I feel like I'm better prepared now that I've had a look at the bolts and thrust adjusters myself.

I haven't been on a ride yet, but I reved the engine at a standstill, and the vibrations seemed the same. The mirrors started to vibrate at 6000 rpm, like before.
 

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I noticed that the upper front bolt hole was not in the middle of the hole in the thrust adjuster. The lower back one seemed better positioned to me. So it seems like it could be adjusted a bit.
One tip is if the holes are aligned then the through-bolts should slide right in and across without too much resistance. Also, the alignment doesn't have to be perfect but better is better and if you saw the witness marks in my case that small amount of concentric misalignment was enough to cause noticeable vibes on my bike.

Just removing the bolts, and re-torquing everything, like I did, appears not to be enough for my bike. I'll try the more thorough procedure another day. I feel like I'm better prepared now that I've had a look at the bolts and thrust adjusters myself.
It does take a bit of practice and patience to get it right. It took me most of a Saturday to do it and I did not have a procedure to follow so I was making it up along the way. For me it was worth it even though it did not fix the exact vibration problem I am trying to solve it runs smoother and ruled out motor mounts as a cause. My bike has a 2-3K RPM shudder and 7K-ish buzziness I'd like to resolve. Now that I have ruled out motor mounts I am back to motor imbalance (vacuum leak, compression, throttle body primary plates out of sync) or the clutch pack or the generator flywheel are out of balance. Because of the shudder I suspect the clutch pack but I am reluctant to tear into that.

I haven't been on a ride yet, but I reved the engine at a standstill, and the vibrations seemed the same. The mirrors started to vibrate at 6000 rpm, like before.
I'm guessing motor imbalance.
 

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Reviving the Thrust Adjuster Thread for a 2014 V2 (DL1000).

So I finally got around to see how much adjustment my bike needed. Actually not much. Have not ridden it, so maybe no big difference as far as vibes go.

But here is the information that is important for anybody wanting to do it. The upper and lower bots are not the same. Also the thrust adjusters are not the same. However the lock-nuts are the same! So the before referenced special 4 prong tool works.
What is different is that the upper thrust adjuster needs a 23 mm 6 point socket (not 12 point, the edges are rounded off!!). You likely don't have that one in your tool chest ;-) . At least I had to go to Napa and get one. The lower needs a standard 19 mm socket, so not a problem.

The through-bolts have crazy torque specifications, probably not correct since the smaller bottom one has almost double the torque that the upper larger one has. I just tightened them by hand and didn't worry about it. There was no load on the upper bolt. I pulled it out, reversed the direction with the nut on the left side so I could have it in while adjusting the thrust adjuster. The lower through-bolt just needs to be loosened, then you can remove the lock-nut, adjust the thrust adjuster, re-install the lock-nut and tighten the through-bolt again.

Tools Needed:
275235


Upper Thrust Adjuster
275236


Lower Thrust Adjuster
275242


275240
 
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