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Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem with vibrations on my AK7 DL650.

I started noticing them after starting riding again this spring. Not sure if they just started, or I just didn't notice before. I bought the bike in August, so I didn't get to ride that much last summer.

When riding, I usually notice the vibrations when over 4000 rpm. Really noticeable at 5000 and it gets really annoying at 6000 rpm.

I feel the vibrations in the handlebars, but even more in both footpegs and on the seat. I haven't been on really long rides yet (just half an hour or so at a time), but I suspect I would feel the vibrations afterwards. Actually I was doing some training a while back, and when I got home, my hands felt like when using a sanding machine for too long. It has only happened once, though.

The vibrations are from the engine, as I found that the vibrations are there even if I stand still with the clutch pulled or with the gear in neutral.

I now found that if I stand still and rev the engine, I can actually feel the vibrations at 3000 rpm. Going past 6000 rpm just seems to increase the vibrations.

I have checked that all four spark plugs are working, which I initially thought might be a cause.

As the bike is new to me, I'm not sure how it has been serviced. I'm thinking about having the following periodic services done:
Valve clearance (inspect every four years according to the maintenance chart)
Throttle valve synchronization (inspect every two years)
PAIR (air supply) system (inspect every two years)

Those are the only things I won't service myself.

Do you think any of these might be the cause of the vibrations (I read that someone got rid of vibrations by adjusting the valve clearance)?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I removed the crash bars, but did not notice much of a difference. Maybe marginally better, but I'm not sure.

As I got curious about whether these vibrations are normal or not, I borrowed a Yamaha MT-09 for a test drive. Some reviews tell that the MT-09 is very smooth, while others say that it has lots of vibrations. Same as the V-strom. Maybe it's unfair to compare the bikes, but I felt like trying.

My verdict is that the Yamaha was not completely vibration free. But, while I felt vibrations in the foot pegs, I did not feel vibrations in the seat or in my knees when pressing against the tank, like on my V-strom. Also, the vibrations were quite constant, with a linear increase in the higher RPMs.

Going back to my V-strom afterwards, I noticed many positive things when compared to the MT-09. For one, the wind shield makes quite a difference when at highway speeds. I also prefer the V-strom's more upright seating position. I prefer riding this bike. But I do feel more vibrations. Under 4000 rpm they are comparable, but over 4000 the vibrations rapidly increase on my V-strom. At 6000 it gets quite uncomfortable after a while.

I'm starting to consider buying a new bike, but I'm still fond of my V-strom, so I haven't decided yet.

I'm considering trying to reseat the engine myself, but am not sure how difficult it is. Can the engine fall out?
See the thread 420461-motor-mount-reseat-retorque.

Also, I found the following note in the service manual:
NOTE:
* The engine mounting nuts are self-locking.
* Once the nut has been removed, it is no longer of any use. Be sure to use new nuts, and then tighten them
to the specified torque.

Do I really need to buy new bolts before doing the reseating procedure?
 

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I'm starting to consider buying a new bike, but I'm still fond of my V-strom, so I haven't decided yet.
My brand new 19 has a vibe issue I am working through as well so you mind as well keep your bike and sort it out. This video shows you how to do the retorque/adjust which I am going to do on mine soon once the tool arrives. Dunno how much different the earlier versions are though. Good luck.

 

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First off, these bikes tend to have a harmonic vibration between 4700-5200 rpm. Not intrusive, but it is there. I would doubt that a valve adjustment or TBS would have any effect on vibrations.
Some have noticed an improvement when loosening and re-torquing the engine bolts.
Yes, the engine will fall out if you remove all of the engine mounting bolts but you only need to take the torque off them, run the motor, and re-torque them.
Yes, in theory they have one use nuts BUT I have reused such nuts in the past with no ill effects. If it worries you take each nut off in turn and apply a little blue Loctite to the bolt threads prior to torquing.

Re-torquing the engine mounting bolts can make a noticeable effect on vibrations, or have very little effect. What mileage has it done, and what have you loosened - or bolted on to your bike since you have owned it? And does it have a bash plate, or any other accessories besides the crash bars?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! I'll try this procedure. Just need to order the special tool.

I found the following from Motion Pro:
Spanner Nut Socket, Suzuki, 34.2mm / 19.8mm

It seems to be the equivalent to the one mentioned in the service manual:
09940-14990: Engine mounting thrust adjuster socket wrench
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re-torquing the engine mounting bolts can make a noticeable effect on vibrations, or have very little effect. What mileage has it done, and what have you loosened - or bolted on to your bike since you have owned it? And does it have a bash plate, or any other accessories besides the crash bars?
It's at a bit over 20 000 km. I have not added anything apart from electrical things (lighting, fuses, relays, etc). The previous owner added crash bars, but I don't have any bash plate on it. It's an AK7 model.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
One thought.. Should I use thread locker (Locktite blue or similar) when tightening the thrust adjuster, to make sure it stays snug?
 

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The thrust adjusters have lock nuts so no, I would not Loctite them. Note that the torque is very modest - 8.5ft/lbs for the adjuster and 32.5 ft/lbs for the lock nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all replies! I have ordered the special tool from ebay, so I'll give it a try once I receive the tool.

I read the whole the thread again, and noticed you say to loosen the mounting bolts, and then run the engine. Is this to make it reseat itself? The video didn't mention running the engine.

I have printed the relevant pages from the maintenance manual, and I'm pretty confident that I know what to do. I'll place a jack under the engine just in case. I'll remove the through bolts, but will only work on one thrust adjuster at a time. I'll loosen both but won't remove more than one at a time (if I have to remove them for some reason). In the video he removed the thrust adjusters, but I don't think that should be necessary.
 

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I'd turn the motor over without starting it to allow everything to settle into the least stressed configuration.
 

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I chose to swap a 2018 engine into my 2012 frame for my project bike and found when tightening the thrust adjuster (after torqueing the hanger to frame bolts on the engine hangers) there seemed to be more outward pressure on the hangers than I thought necessary to achieve the torque required, so I tightened the thrust adjuster to take up the gap between the hangers and engine plus a slight bit of tension, then torqued the thrust adjuster lock nut and bolt tension to spec. Rear engine mount thrust adjuster was ok as its pushing across the solid frame section, have others noticed similar?
 

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My brand new 19 has a vibe issue I am working through as well so you mind as well keep your bike and sort it out. This video shows you how to do the retorque/adjust which I am going to do on mine soon once the tool arrives. Dunno how much different the earlier versions are though. Good luck.
Hey--that's me!

I haven't made an introductory post here yet, but I've been reading lots of Stromtrooper posts to learn more about the bike. This is an awesome forum.

If there's anything that I didn't make clear in the video, let me know. I should have shot it while I was actually making the adjustments to the thrust adjusters; however, I did not fully understand what their function was until I got my hands on them.

I would say I still have a light knock right at 5,600 RPM after adjusting the thrust adjusters; however, it was near unbearable before making that adjustment. I was going to remove the SW-Motech crashbars altogether. I've done 2,000 miles since the adjustment, and it's just a nuisance now because it aggravates me that I can't eliminate it completely. I plan to order the SW-Motech skidplate and connect the crash bars to the skidplate via turnbuckle (think I saw that recommended on here) to see if I can fully eliminate the engine vibration around 5,600 rpm.
 

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THANK YOU!
Always dreaded going above 5500 RPM as the mild vibs became irritating vibes. Did the thrust adjustment and now the mild vibes almost disappear at 6K and higher RPM. Thanks for the info!

Mark
 

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THANK YOU!
Always dreaded going above 5500 RPM as the mild vibs became irritating vibes. Did the thrust adjustment and now the mild vibes almost disappear at 6K and higher RPM. Thanks for the info!

Mark
I'm glad it sorted yours out Mark. Did you torque the thrust adjuster up to the book torque or until there was no gap? I'm going to do mine this weekend.
 

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I let adjuster contact engine then tightened till resistance felt like 10 ft-lbs. My torque wrench is 1/2" drive, does not go below 20 lbs. Did not check before I started, but looking at position of lock nut on adjuster before and after, I think adjuster was not contacting engine, which would explain obnoxious vibs at higher RPM
A side note: read all the threads about how smooth the 650 is and how the engine loves to run at higher RPM, wondered why that was not the case w my 2014. Now it is! Feels so much
better and opens up a wider powerband, now that I dont have to shift when I reach 5K.
The Motion Pro tool plus a six point 23mm socket were needed for the top adjuster. Lower adjuster lock nut was super tight, could not loosen it with 3/8" drive ratchet, required Kroil penetrant and a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen. Did not think of borrowing the 23mm socket from Oreilley's or AutoZone, so bought one from Amazon.
Good luck V650 and keep us posted.

Mark
 

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I let adjuster contact engine then tightened till resistance felt like 10 ft-lbs. My torque wrench is 1/2" drive, does not go below 20 lbs. Did not check before I started, but looking at position of lock nut on adjuster before and after, I think adjuster was not contacting engine, which would explain obnoxious vibs at higher RPM
A side note: read all the threads about how smooth the 650 is and how the engine loves to run at higher RPM, wondered why that was not the case w my 2014. Now it is! Feels so much
better and opens up a wider powerband, now that I dont have to shift when I reach 5K.
The Motion Pro tool plus a six point 23mm socket were needed for the top adjuster. Lower adjuster lock nut was super tight, could not loosen it with 3/8" drive ratchet, required Kroil penetrant and a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen. Did not think of borrowing the 23mm socket from Oreilley's or AutoZone, so bought one from Amazon.
Good luck V650 and keep us posted.

Mark
OK I had a go today.

My rear thrust adjuster lock nut was barely finger tight. I did the retorque procedure on all of them but I didn't notice any difference. Vibes are still there. My engine is very new though. I'm going to do it again but just nip up the thrust adjusters and not torque them to spec. I did however only do one at a time. Next time I will loosen everything and do it again. The problem with my SW motech crash bars is that they have to come off for access to do the adjustment. Then you have to re fit them and retorque the brackets which is not ideal. Trial and error.
 
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