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Very Cool Multimeter

2653 Views 19 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  richw, 
Rides
A multimeter is an essential troubleshooting tool. I’m on the hunt for a very compact one to keep on my bike, this is a very cool option but alas probably violates my K.I.S.S. principle.
Pokit Meter
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drrod
Handy looking tool.
As a less expensive, albeit a bit larger, alternative is something like this
www.amazon.com

ALLOSUN Pocket Size Compact Digital Multimeter Auto Range Multi Continuity Tester (EM3082 (auto Range)) - - Amazon.com

ALLOSUN Pocket Size Compact Digital Multimeter Auto Range Multi Continuity Tester (EM3082 (auto Range)) - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com

My electrical engineer riding companion carries one like this and it has proved to be useful and takes up very little space. About the same size as a small cell phone.
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tgeliot
drrod said:
Handy looking tool.
As a less expensive, albeit a bit larger, alternative is something like this
www.amazon.com

ALLOSUN Pocket Size Compact Digital Multimeter Auto Range Multi Continuity Tester (EM3082 (auto Range)) - - Amazon.com

ALLOSUN Pocket Size Compact Digital Multimeter Auto Range Multi Continuity Tester (EM3082 (auto Range)) - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com

. . .
Click to expand...
Just the fact that the leads and probes store in the case is a big win.

I want a meter that has leads that somehow include the ability to be clipped onto a contact, and then also a sharp probe that can pierce wiring insulation.

2008 Suzuki DL650A VStrom "Bucephalus"
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dravnx
tgeliot said:
Just the fact that the leads and probes store in the case is a big win.

I want a meter that has leads that somehow include the ability to be clipped onto a contract, and then also a sharp probe that can pierce wiring insulation.

2008 Suzuki DL650A VStrom "Bucephalus"
Click to expand...
I've owned a lot of pocket multimeters and have never seen one that has those features. Shove a pair of alligator test leads and a heavy sewing needle into the kit and your complete.
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B
tgeliot said:
I want a meter that has leads that somehow include the ability to be clipped onto a contract, and then also a sharp probe that can pierce wiring insulation.
Click to expand...
Having failed to find a true compact multimeter for my tool kit, I added a "test light" to it instead. My bike has a voltmeter already so I don't need a separate tool to measure exact voltage, but I do need to be able to test for continuity.

This one has a clip that you clip to the battery negative terminal, and you use the tip (which has a thin probe as well) on whatever connector that should have positive voltage. If it lights up, then the voltage is present so you have continuity from the battery positive to that point.

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NVDucati
BackPacker said:
Having failed to find a true compact multimeter for my tool kit, I added a "test light" to it instead. My bike has a voltmeter already so I don't need a separate tool to measure exact voltage, but I do need to be able to test for continuity.

This one has a clip that you clip to the battery negative terminal, and you use the tip (which has a thin probe as well) on whatever connector that should have positive voltage. If it lights up, then the voltage is present so you have continuity from the battery positive to that point.

Click to expand...
Around the shop I use a turn signal light I took off some bike. Eventually, having failed to grow a third hand,I glued a magnet to the back of it. ;)
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ThruST
Rides said:
A multimeter is an essential troubleshooting tool. I’m on the hunt for a very compact one to keep on my bike, this is a very cool option but alas probably violates my K.I.S.S. principle.
Pokit Meter
Click to expand...
I Kept it as simple as possible, a free multimeter from Harbor freight :rolleyes:
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tgeliot
One advantage of a cheap analog meter is that if the voltage is switching back and forth say between 0v and 12v very quickly, the needle will sort of flap back and forth around 6v. But that same situation can drive a digital meter into going apeshit with the display, showing nothing useful

2008 Suzuki DL650A VStrom "Bucephalus"
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dravnx
Analog meter movements are rather delicate and would never stand up to the rigors of a motorcycle.
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Hans471
drrod said:
Handy looking tool.
As a less expensive, albeit a bit larger, alternative is something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ALLOSUN-Pock...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Click to expand...
That meter has been around a LONG time. Radio Shack use to sell those. I have one that we use to give to students back in the 1990's at one of our electrical classes at Chrysler. I am still using that meter after over twenty years.
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Hans471
"I want a meter that has leads that somehow include the ability to be clipped onto a contact, and then also a sharp probe that can pierce wiring insulation. "

You can buy these, they slide onto the end of a normal pointed meter lead. BUT, the only problem with them is that when you poke a hole in the side of a wire you have now opened up the wire to water (and salt from the road) and even battery acid intrusion into the wire which can cause worse problems later on. Seen it too many times. If you want to do tests this way at least get the probes with the very thin needles on the end as some claim the hole they make is so small it will close itself up and seal when you take the test lead off.
Things like this:
Piercing test lead
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tgeliot
dravnx said:
Analog meter movements are rather delicate and would never stand up to the rigors of a motorcycle.
Click to expand...
Good point. I don't carry my meter with me.

2008 Suzuki DL650A VStrom "Bucephalus"
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tgeliot
Hans471 said:
"I want a meter that has leads that somehow include the ability to be clipped onto a contact, and then also a sharp probe that can pierce wiring insulation. "

You can buy these, they slide onto the end of a normal pointed meter lead. BUT, the only problem with them is that when you poke a hole in the side of a wire you have now opened up the wire to water (and salt from the road) and even battery acid intrusion into the wire which can cause worse problems later on. Seen it too many times. If you want to do tests this way at least get the probes with the very thin needles on the end as some claim the hole they make is so small it will close itself up and seal when you take the test lead off.
Things like this:
Piercing test lead
Click to expand...
Too bad those want to connect to banana plugs, which are not what these memes use. That lead set does look good.

2008 Suzuki DL650A VStrom "Bucephalus"
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Rolex
For clip on probes this is what I did.

I got 2 small alligator clips, over the end where the wire would be crimped I pushed some fuel hose (red & blue just because I could)

When I want to use them I push the meters probes between the clip and the fuel hose to get the connection required.

I can also use my system to make small jumper wires to do testing with.

I will point out I will never rely on a meter for anything other than voltage readings, I will always use a test light to prove a wire is capable of carrying a load, a meter will not do that because it puts no load on the system.
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Hans471
Rolex said:
For clip on probes this is what I did.

I will point out I will never rely on a meter for anything other than voltage readings, I will always use a test light to prove a wire is capable of carrying a load, a meter will not do that because it puts no load on the system.
Click to expand...
Well, there is much more to it than that. A test light can only tell you the wire is capable of carrying the load of the test light. Modern test lights often use LED bulbs and have a very low draw. There are several good ways to check wiring but in the end a voltage drop test under load is the best. It will prove if the wiring or control device is actually able to carry the load to allow the circuit to operate under actual working conditions. Example: Head light has broken strands or a very poor connection. You remove the headlight bulb and test for voltage at the socket. Meter reads battery voltage and your test light lights up just fine. Now, plug the headlight bulb back in and turn it on. Put your positive lead of your volt meter on the + post of the battery and your - lead on the positive post where the wire connects to the headlight bulb. The reading you get is the voltage drop in the + side of the circuit. You can repeat the same process from the - side of the bulb back to the - post of the battery. If you read anything over .2V to .4V during operation you have a bad (high resistance circuit. Now you can start testing each leg of the circuit to isolate the problem area.
Volt meters are the BEST way to check circuits. Test lights only tell you there is voltage on the wire and that the wire is able to light up a small bulb. You could only have one or two strands still working in a conductor and the test light will glow. They are for quick tests, nothing much more. Volt meters when properly used can reveal hard to find problems. Amp meters can also be very helpful. I have a simple small one that plugs into a fuse holder so I can monitor a circuit and see if the draw is normal, low or excessive.
Full disclaimer: I studied electrical and electronics in college. I worked in the field for some years before beginning my teaching career. For about four decades I taught the most advanced electro-computer system diagnostic classes for a couple of the largest auto makers in the world. That does not make me any smarter than any one, it just means I have a lot of practical experience to draw on.
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Rolex
I don't use LED test lights, in fact I build my own.

If I see a dumped car I remove the tail light sockets & globes and the headlight sockets & globes.

This gives me multiple loads I can apply.

EG; just tail light, tail light & stop light, high beam and low beam, just low or high.

I have the same AMP meter but without load testing the system it means very little.

I have never studied anything, I just learnt from experience.
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khami9876
ThruST said:
I Kept it as simple as possible, a free multimeter from Harbor freight :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
☝This. It fits nicely under my seat. All you usually need to troubleshoot is voltage reading and/or continuity check. I've used it to troubleshoot two buddies bikes on long road trips. I have one hanging around the garage as well.
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RedAnt
I carry one like that pictured above, but I bought it long ago at a local radio shack.

It's been good and gone though a few batteries over the years. Help out 2 years ago on my NC trip to debug my buddies HD electrical system failure. Didn't fix his HD but at least provided warning that his replacement battery (we just purchased on the road) was not being charged.

Once you have the meter make sure you have the shop manual PDF on your phone/ tablet.
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Shrek
For all those that mention wire piercing, keep in mind that copper oxidizes.
The oxidation will travel under the insulation. I've seen oxidation travel 5' in a semi trailer harness.
If your going to pierce, seal after. Oxidation causes more resistance, which in turn causes power loss.
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R
Rides said:
A multimeter is an essential troubleshooting tool. I’m on the hunt for a very compact one to keep on my bike, this is a very cool option but alas probably violates my K.I.S.S. principle.
Pokit Meter
Click to expand...
Radioshak used to sell one that was just a fat pen
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