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Discussion Starter #1
Purchased a 2004 Wee-Strom this summer with 24k on it. The exterior was rough but it ran good. Am doing my first valve job on it and am unable to adjust 3 of the 4 exhaust valves. Even if I install the tappet with "no shim" the best clearance I can get is 0.15mm. ( I need 0.2-0.3mm) I am afraid to ask, but does anyone have any ideas? Did the previous owner neglect it and warp or bend the valves? Or am I doing something wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I would agree, but I can't imagine what I could have done wrong. Checking the clearances is pretty straightforward. I said it runs well but it does make a ticking sound. I have compared this to my friends identical bike with 10k on it. It does not make this ticking noise.
 

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My guessis that you're using the wrong feeler gauges, or you're looking at the inch measurement on them and not the milimeter measurement.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Did you turn over the engine a couple of times by hand so the cams would push the buckets down fully?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What I am wondering is...if this bike has never had a valve adjustment in 24K, could the exhaust valves overheat and somehow distort such that it would close the "gap" to a point where I could never achieve a proper clearance. Or perhaps the valve seats are worn to a point that the valve are retracting even further into the head when they close resulting in minimal clearance with the cam. I don't know, I'm grasping for answers.
 

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When you install a shim, is it actually touching the valve stem?
I have seen valves pull out of the spring retainers.
 

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Without seeing the bike firsthand, I'd have to agree with the other posts suggesting that you've made a mistake somewhere in your check. 24k miles is next to nothing on a V-Strom (650 or 1000). Many bikes pass that point without needing a shim change at all. To find a bike that's "unadjustable" with only 24k miles would be practically unheard of without some other major mechanical problem. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, as far as I can tell the shims are touching the valve stem. But if the the stem pulled out of the retainer, wouldn't that give me the opposite problem? That is, I would have too much gap between the tappet and cam instead of my current problem which is not enough gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Don't worry, you won't hurt my feelings. Yes, I am at TDC on the compression stroke. The cam lobes are as depicted in the service manual. Btw, I am not new to valve adjustments, just never did one on a strom before. I have even taken a mic to my shims and feeler gauges.
 

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Yes, as far as I can tell the shims are touching the valve stem. But if the the stem pulled out of the retainer, wouldn't that give me the opposite problem? That is, I would have too much gap between the tappet and cam instead of my current problem which is not enough gap.
No, the spring would rise up along with the retainer, but the valve would stay in place.
I've also seen valve stems stretch.
 

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Post some pics with the feeler gauges and the cam lobes. Maybe we can get an idea of whats going on with the pics. It sounds to me, that if your doing everything right, and you cant get a good clearance even with the shim out, you may have a a valve thats sitting to far down in the seat. in otherwords, wore out. Lets hope its not that. Pics pics pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The tops of the valves all look the same (shims and buckets removed) so I assume I am not having a problem with the retainers. As to whether or not the valves have stretched or the seats are bad, I won't know until I remove the valves...something I am hoping to avoid. I will try to post pics tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #18
These are photos of the front cylinder valve adjustment:

1.


2. Note proper cam position and timing (16 pins between timing marks on the cams at TDC)


3. I am measuring the front exhaust valves. 0.15mm is the the best gap I can achieve. Yes, I checked that there are not 2 or 3 feeler gauge blades stuck together. Have made that mistake before.


4. Various measuring shots





5. Photo of the valves without buckets or shims


6. Close-up of "exhaust" valves w/o buckets or shims


7. Close-up of "intake" valves w/o buckets or shims


8. Exhaust valves with and w/o bucket. The shims are 1.2mm and give me a clearance of 0.15 mm (0.05mm less than the min required clearance of 0.2-0.3 mm)

I think I have one of two possible problems. Either the valve seats are so worn, the valves are riding high in the head when closed thereby not allowing enough gap between the bucket and cam...or
as Mike25 suggests, the valve retainer (the 2 half round collets) has slipped, allowing the spring to ride high, thereby decreasing the gap. I believe this is the case because there is no change in the gap measurement when I use a 1.2mm shim or a 1.65 shim...or no shim at all! This leads me to believe the bucket is sitting on the retainer (which sits on top of the spring) instead of resting on the shim.. The bucket never touches the shim.
I have inspected the valves and retainers and I have included pics here, but honestly, I can't see enough of the retainers to see if they are slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
oops, forgot to include photo #8

Exhaust valves with and w/o bucket. The shims are 1.2mm and give me a clearance of 0.15 mm (0.05mm less than the min required clearance of 0.2-0.3 mm)

 

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Rjsurfer
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Help ! I'm going blind...can't see a thing.:confused:

Ron w.
 
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