[Jarvis]

Well I was checking the valves on my 2009 Wee with 16,000 miles.

I found both of the exhaust valves to be sitting right at the high end of the gap specification (0.30 ~ 0.33 mm).

Now I have always thought that the big issue with exhaust valves is that the clearance tightens up over time as the valves begin to seat. So you don't want to be too tight less the valve and piston decide to occupy the same space at the same time. Which leads me to a a couple of questions.

Is the DL650 motor a non-interference design?

I know when I worked for Ford it was an engineering standard that our engines be a non-interference type. If a timing belt should break you would not have the extra expense of replacing bent valves and cracked pistons.

Should I adjust the valves and let them seat more or is my logic about valve clearance getting smaller due to seating a bunch of horse hockey?

 

[Cake_Kat]

Is the DL650 motor a non-interference design?

No, it is not.

Should I adjust the valves and let them seat more or is my logic about valve clearance getting smaller due to seating a bunch of horse hockey?

Double check your measurements. Then adjust them so that they are in the center range of spec.

 

[Chuck in Indiana]

I found both of the exhaust valves to be sitting right at the high end of the gap specification (0.30 ~ 0.33 mm).

Now I have always thought that the big issue with exhaust valves is that the clearance tightens up over time as the valves begin to seat.

Should I adjust the valves?

I wouldn't touch them. The spec is .20-.30mm on the Exhaust valves, and you're at the high side of that. Over time, they'll tend to tighten (have less clearance). If anything, they'll have a slight clicking noise.

You didn't say anything about the Intake valve clearances (Spec is .10-.20mm). If they're in spec, I'd leave them also.

 

[ken mier]

If the valves are tight, you have to worry about burning valves because you don't have total valve closure. You won't have a need to worry about valve / piston interference unless you have done something really goofy with the timing chain / camshaft-clocking.

 

[Philip Kuntz]

Some folks adjust them to the maximum end of the specified range, just to avoid future valve adjustments. I would leave them alone. :thumbup:

 

[Alpster87]

If their witin spec ...Well then their within spec ....:thumbup:

 

[honest bob]

When you say both the exhaust valves, do you mean both sets of exhaust valves in both cylinders or one particular cylinder? I would double check that you are checking them at the correct position of the TDC of compression stroke. The cams in the front show the high points facing outward, while the cams of the rear face inward. Rotate the engine CClockW a few times to force oil out of the valve train and then measure. I think it is very rare for exhaust valves to loosen. 2 would be more rare and 4 unheard of. Were they ever checked before?

 

[Phinhead]

I just had the dealer do a valve check at 20k on an 04 Wee. The tech says, "I will do it, but you are wasting your money and our time." I have him do it anyway. It is a nice place where you can watch them work through glass. I stopped in two times to watch them work.

He comes out and hands me a $250 bill and says, "I told you that you were wasting your money. This engine design (goes into water cooling and some other stuff that I don't remember) just doesn't need it. I wouldn't come back here for this for double if not triple the recommended mileage, now that you know it is good."

He went on to explain how Yamaha has altered their valve check requirements and hopes Suzuki does.

 

[greywolf]

It's not a sure thing. See this.

 

[Jarvis]

I want to thank everyone for their responses to my question.

In the end I had set the valve clearance to as close to the middle of the spec (intake and exhaust) as I could. Figured since most of it was apart why not.

The bike is running great... then again it was running great before too. :thumbup:

 

[Jarvis]

When you say both the exhaust valves, do you mean both sets of exhaust valves in both cylinders or one particular cylinder? I would double check that you are checking them at the correct position of the TDC of compression stroke. The cams in the front show the high points facing outward, while the cams of the rear face inward. Rotate the engine CClockW a few times to force oil out of the valve train and then measure. I think it is very rare for exhaust valves to loosen. 2 would be more rare and 4 unheard of. Were they ever checked before?

In both the front and rear exhaust case one valve was slightly in and the other slightly out from being at the wide end.

They were checked early on by the dealer but numnuts here never asked for the measurements. I am not sure even if I had requested the measurements that what I would have received would have actually been representative of what my valve clearance actually was. I do not bring my bike to that shop any more.

 

[Phinhead]

It's not a sure thing. See this.

I'm sure it isn't, and I feel much better about the bike having done it. I spoke to two Suzuki mechanics and a local bike shop, and all said that I was probably wasting my time. The bike shop said they recommended checks, but had rarely had to adjust the Dls.

The Suzuki mechanics acted like I was bothering them to pay for service. I really like the guy who did the work, today, and I have known him. He made references about getting behind and wasting money by checking them.

Thanks for the poll and the input. I only commented on this because it was my recent experience.

 

[PTRider]

I know when I worked for Ford it was an engineering standard that our engines be a non-interference type. If a timing belt should break you would not have the extra expense of replacing bent valves and cracked pistons.

There are many interference engines with timing belts. My Toyota Tundra 4.7L V8 is one, Volvos and Hondas and Dodges are some others.

 

[Brahms]

Just Did Major Maintenance. . .

Just did maintenance at the 30k mark - plugs, air filter, oil & oil filter, changed coolant, and checked valve clearance. Three of the four exhausts were .20 go/.23 tight/.25 no-go, the fourth dead center at .25 tight. Three of the four intakes were dead center at .15 tight, the fourth at .10 loose/.13 tight/.15 no-go. No adjustment performed. Yes, I voted in the poll. No, the PO did not record previous clearance values.

I also installed the BalesTech oil filter adapter and the SuperTech ST7317 filter, and I'm happy with it so far, but that's a topic for another thread.

I also learned some new stupid newbie tricks, like losing the gasketed washer for the rear valve cover and spending two hours looking for it inside the head, the chassis, my pockets, the battery box, etc. It was under the dropcloth I put on the ground beside the bike. (bashhead)

I also learned that those little plastic fasteners on the cowling a) are impossible to remove from the outside b) break real easily c) are just as easily replaced with the kind that has a phillips socket on the center pin so they're easier to remove the next time.

I also learned that if you drop one of the windshield screws down into the cowling, it will end up in the little cavity right behind the beak of the schnozz. Which means you have to re-remove the cowling that you just ever-so-carefully reassembled, because your handy magnetic screw grabber doesn't bend at the proper angle to grab the screw.

 

[greywolf]

The rivets have a trick and are re-usable many times.

 

[biker128pedal]

The rivets have a trick and are re-usable many times.

Buy spares so you won't lose any. :mrgreen:

I checked mine yesterday at 25k miles. One exhaust valve measure reduced by a thousands of an inch.

 

[Brahms]

Thanks, Greywolf

(Bashhead again) Talk about counter-intuitive. Where was this tidbit when I needed it? Oh, well. Thanks, Greywolf.

 

[revrandy]

I took mine in for a valve check a couple of weeks ago. My Wee has 20K on it. The mechanic said I was wasting my money as DL's rarely go out of spec with this few miles on it.

He fired up another bike where the valves were out and had me listen and compare it to my bike; there is a sound difference. While I was welcome to spend $250 with him to have it done, he said don't waste my $$ and wait until I have another 10K on it before spending it.

 

[greywolf]

When a valve clearance gets dangerous, it's because it is too tight. Noisy valves are too loose. You can't tell if a valve adjustment is needed by the sound.

 

[MikeB]

A saying among BMW oilhead owners is "a slappy valve is a happy valve." A few gurus actually advocate doubling the max spec. If you sit beside a noisy BMW at a stoplight you'll know who's following this advice.

I was too timid to do that myself, but during the years I owned a GS and followed BMW and Advrider forums I never saw any reports of a problem with these extreme clearances. Everything else on the bike might have failed, but never a valve...:mrgreen: