Please do not take the poll if your bike has never had a valve clearance check. Those who have had more than one bike can vote for each if I set this thing up right. They have to have different answers though. I saw no way to choose the same answer twice unless you have somebody ineligible vote for your second answer.
Mrfixit check out the link. There is a valuable tip about getting the cam out without removing or loosening the cam chain tensioner at all.Only thing is you need another pair of hands. I just did mine this way a couple weeks ago and it worked fine for me.Although I found it easier to push the pawl back by pushing the chain,guide and pawl at the same time with a large screwdriver behind the chain while holding down on the cam lock with the other screwdriver.
Do one cam at a time and zip tie the chain to the other cam.Just be carefull when you cut the zip tie so none of it falls into the engine.damhint.:headbang:
I also marked the alignment of the chain and cam gear with a felt marker which made it easier to to line things back up when I put the cam back on.
thanks for the tip and just in time - i just finished removing all the cowling and was coming in to ask if anyone had done the valve inspection with the crashbars still on. it looks like i will have to remove them also.
but i really appericate the chain release tip - will save me LOTS of :headbang:
The bolts are shouldered. Tightening them more won't help the seal and people have stripped the tapped holes before. I'd recommend 7lb-ft instead of 10. It's usually a damaged gasket, old sealer present or a failure to use a non hardening sealer on the semicircular sections, especially where they meet the straight sections, that causes leaks.
Just finished the third valve clearance check on my 2004 DL650 now with about 48k mi. Rear cylinder was perfect, and the front only had one of the intakes out of spec. Interestingly, the one that needed a change had a different shim than the other intake and when I matched it to the other it was right in spec. I am suspicious that whoever did it before put the wrong one in it...
Other than that the cams and everything looked great and I am looking forward to another 48k out of her!:thumbup:
K3 1000 at approx 20,000 km. Front exhaust in middle of spec (both 0.25mm), 1 valve on each of the other 3 cams were tight (Intakes 0.07 & 0.08mm, exhaust 0.18mm), and the other 3 valves on those cams very close to the bottom end of the range. Replaced 6 shims on 3 cams to put all valves around the middle of the range.
Should be good for another 8 years or so....:thumbup:
I just did the valve check today. I entered the poll, also.
Here are my results:
Front Cylinder - left intake .13mm yes / .18mm no
right intake .10mm yes / .13mm no
left exhaust .23mm yes / .25mm no
right exhaust .20mm yes / .23mm no
Rear Cylinder - left intake .15mm yes / .18mm no
right intake .13mm yes / .15mm no
left exhaust .23mm yes / .25mm no
right exhaust .20mm yes / .23mm no
The right side is the side towards the timing chain. Every valve on the right side is tighter than the one to its left. This is as deep as I want to go into my engine. I think I am just going to put it back together and recheck it in another 15,000 to 20,000 miles.
My bike has about 19,500 miles on the odometer and this was my first valve check. My bike is a 2007 DL650 ABS (E-33).
Just did my 3rd valve check at about 46K miles. All except the rear cylinder intake were still in specs. The out of spec ones were just outside of specs on the loose side. It's been 30K miles since they were last adjusted.
I just checked my valves for the first time with 24500 miles. They were all within-spec. Intake in the middle. Exhaust were on the tight side of spec. I left them alone and will check them again in 10-15k miles.
Im taking the poll and marking 1st check no adjustment needed even though my mileage is closer to 2nd check and no adjustment?
I have checked my wee's valves at 15,000 and 50,000 and they were all in spec. Have not had the valve covers off sinve the last valve check. Curent milage is 103,000. Carl
08 DL1000 16,229 miles, 1st valve clearance check, did it my self.
All measurements are the "go" feeler guage.
Front cyl. intake-.006 & .004/ exhaust .010 & .010
Rear cyl. intake-.005 & .007/ exhaust .011 & .011
All are within range, little concerned about the .004 on the one intake, see what it says next time.
The fact that the intakes are not equal, is that an issue? I assume the one intake would open slightly sooner than his buddy next to him? Bike runs fine though, except for the occasional stumble at low rpm because of being lean, I can live with that.
poll pretty much meaningless with out mileage. first check & adjust 60k. 5 out of 8 out of spec's. second check & adjust 85k. one out of 8 out of spec's..
Cbrxxcess and I just did my adjustment on my 2006 Vee and 6 of the 8 valves were out of spec (tight) and one cam was 1 tooth off presumably from the factory. The bike has 14990 miles on it.
I just checked my 650 at 13500 as I am going on a summer trip which will take up 8500 miles and don't want to stop for that. Also prematurely replaced tires, chain, and spark plugs for same reason.
The results in inches were
FLE .011 FRE .010
FLI .0045 FRI .005
RLI .0045 RRI .0045
RLE .010 RRE .009
The front intakes were close I have seen that they move little and the range is there for a reason with allowance for wear to next adjustment- so I have chosen to leave them alone for now. If the exhausts were closer then I probably would have done several of them.
Just did my first check today at 19,521 miles and all were in spec on the wee. In fact all were perfectly in the middle. We shall see what the next check holds at 35K.
just had the valves checked on the new to me 2005 650. 27,000kms 1st check done on bike all valve,s were still in upper end of specs. Dealer here in kamloops did the valves and thottlebody sync for $275.00 :hurraygreat day)
just had the valves checked on the new to me 2005 650. 27,000kms 1st check done on bike all valve,s were still in upper end of specs. Dealer here in kamloops did the valves and thottlebody sync for $275.00 :hurraygreat day)
I checked mine at 19,000 and all 8 were out of spec, brought them all to the loose end and will check them again around 40k. I'm at 30k now running well.
I'm buying my strom this week. It has 30k Kms on it and I'm not sure if they were ever checked. So, I will do it as well as ad the sv cams, pc and intake and exhaust mods as need Ed.
I've done my SV about 3-4 times. 50k miles on it. Had to put different shims in a few times. I put pistons in it too (wiseco) and have a pro valve job done.
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