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I was quoated almost a grand.....yes you have that right, almost a grand from my local mega dealer. So I have a good buddy who I consider to be a master mechanic, give me the name of a local guy with a small private shop, who is the ONLY person he let's adjust the valves on his Ducati and Aprilia race bikes. He is going to do the entire job for less than $300, and from what I hear he is very anal retentive when he works on bikes. I am thrilled to support a local mechanic, and I will be giving him a nice tip as well. I fully expect to hear of exhaust valves at their limit "especially in the rear cylinder", and I instructed him to adjust ALL to minimum spec if required.
 

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Having done 30-40 1st time strom valve adjustments for other people I found 2/3 were somewhere within spec. 1/3 had 1 or more valves out. 1 even had a exhaust at .040. Thats .028 over the .012 max recommended.
Interesting, as that is the clearance when the decompression peg is extended. I made the mistake on a YZ450F - changed the shim, rechecked clearance and got the same number.......Finally realizing the decomp peg was holding down the bucket at 0.040mm no matter what shim I had underneath. :grin2:
 

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Interesting, as that is the clearance when the decompression peg is extended. I made the mistake on a YZ450F - changed the shim, rechecked clearance and got the same number.......Finally realizing the decomp peg was holding down the bucket at 0.040mm no matter what shim I had underneath. :grin2:
That is something most all large singles have, but don't know of any multis that need one.
The proper shim corrected the clearance on that large gap.
 

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AND, gawd yes you can damage a filter.
Absolutely. The only other times I've seen any cleaning procedure other than replacement was to take the (paper) airfilter and gently tap it on a hard surface to shake the extra dust out of it. This is from factory and aftermarket service manuals from the '60s.
I used to tap the filter in my '65 Ford Galaxie big-block in front of a shop light, you'd be amazed at all the dust that comes out of it. According to a Fram rep I spoke with, using compressed air can damage the fiber structure of the filter material, and lead to less actual filtration.
 

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Absolutely. The only other times I've seen any cleaning procedure other than replacement was to take the (paper) airfilter and gently tap it on a hard surface to shake the extra dust out of it.
That used to work fine with the circular filters of old but the filter on my VW, besides being a pain to get out flops around like a ducks arse with no rigid frame around it.
With regard to valve adjustment, I was a bit nervous to tackle my own but the mechanics at the local dealers seemed unaware of shim/bucket valve trains (yes, hard to figure out why they're still working) and that did not inspire any confidence in handing my Strom over to them. With a Haynes and '04 Factory manual in hand the job went smoothly and gave me a chance to take a closer look at the inner workings as well as giving the rad a good cleaning. My good luck saw all valves at least a thou' over minimum (just looking at the small tolerance range amazes me).
I stick as close as I can to recommended maintenance. I figure someone put some thought into it at the factory.
ps. I have an Aprilia scooter as well. The manual recommends replacing the CVT toothed belt every 6K miles. The old belt always looks great but the forums are spotted with the non-believers wondering what went wrong when their belt breaks at highway speed and takes out cases and seals that cost mega$$ to replace. Some lessons are hard learned.
 

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$1,000 ??? Cheapskate !!!

I was quoated almost a grand.....yes you have that right, almost a grand from my local mega dealer.
$1,000 ???

What are you, some kind of cheapskate or something ??? :confused:
Small price to pay for therapy, isn't it ?

As for the notion that most of these shim-under-bucket valve engines can be checked and adjusted once at 26kmi, and that if you sand the shims to put all the valves at the low end of the spec, you may be able to ride for 80k + miles without having to adjust again--utter nonsense !! :mod2_nono: (my bike and numerous others being exceptions, though).

And what's this notion that gathered data, statistics and probability can be used to draw inferences of similar engines, makes, and models of motorcycles ?? Do you think these mathematical tools have been used successfully in the advancement of medical science, engineering, manufacturing quality control, and electronics successfully for hundreds of years or something ? Next thing you know, you'll be telling me that Global Warming is real !!!
What are you, some kind of Democrat, or something ? :var_00:

(User NVT posted his valve reading on his '06 DL650, and the readings were the same as my '06 DL650 at the same mileage; but I'm sure this was just a meaningless coincidence.)

Don't you realize that when any work must be done to a motorcycle, that only the most expensive additives and lubricants(chain, engine, brake, etc.) must be used ? Most engines will fail in a short time if anything less than the most expensive products are used(except mine; I'm just lucky, I guess). :yesnod:

The resulting engine failure could cause deep psychological damage which could destroy your marriage. You could lose your children and your house. You'll whole life will go down the tubes if you do not dedicate yourself to following you service manual exactly, and purchase only the most expensive products for it, and have the work performed by the most expensive mechanics available. :yikes:

NEVER post valid Total Cost Of Ownership information on this website. It just isn't proper for the Stromtrooper website anymore. It was once, but that was a long time ago.

There are people on this website with valid High School diplomas, and I suggest you take their advice seriously. :yesnod:

....and don't go thinking there are people on this website trying to encourage unnecessary motorcycle expenditures. :mod2_nono:

It's not happening. You're just imagining it. Go back to sleep. :sifone:
 

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Did mine about 18000 miles. Found some tightening on both intake and exhaust. Did the shims. And in answer to the original question, I don't think there would be any audible noise as they tighten a lot more than loosen. The biggest thing I found to worry about was losing the little bolt barrels down into the engine. Which I did, Days of fishing with a telescoping magnet turned up nothing. A call to the shop to ask them if it had happened to them had them say fer sur. Advice was to remove the side cover which I did to find the little rascal resting on the flywheel tooth. Whew!
 

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Appears I am still in the minority, one day I may regret my own advice. :wink2:

I will let you know if it happens:crying2:
3 valve checks in 194 thousand kms. First was in spec. Second was in spec but changed a few to mid range. Third, at 194k kms, only one was out of spec and only by one thou.

I would do the first recommended check, because who knows how the bike was set up but, after that, you know what you're dealing with. Then, for me, it's just when it's convenient when you're in the neighbourhood doing something else.

But then, that's just my experience.

You may be in the minority, but you're not alone.

Disclaimer: I believe human-caused climate change is real and I use synthetic oil. I drink scotch and hoppy beer. I have a masters degree but is in nothing motorcycle related.
 

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My 2014 DL1000A has auto decompression linkages on both exhaust cams.
Good to know. I haven't worked on new gen. 1000 yet. Mine will be opened up this month.
 

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Was wondering if anyone knows of a situation where the valves were left to get way out of spec and caused a problem. What would happen? Too tight, a burnt valve? Too loose, excessive noise? I wonder how conservative the manual specs are.
I can tell you. My buddy bought a high mileage(80K) DL650 cheap and it had a distinct knock. We checked the valves and the exhaust were way out of spec tight...something like 4 feeler gauges over. Put them all to the middle and the knock went away, bike runs fine. The odd part is everyone says that you can't hear tight valves, so that part I cannot explain.
 

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I can tell you. My buddy bought a high mileage(80K) DL650 cheap and it had a distinct knock. We checked the valves and the exhaust were way out of spec tight...something like 4 feeler gauges over. Put them all to the middle and the knock went away, bike runs fine. The odd part is everyone says that you can't hear tight valves, so that part I cannot explain.
:confused:4 gauges over to me means loose. You cant hear tight.
 

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...
Also recommends (?requires?) that you drain and remove the radiator for access to the front head. Good opportunity to replace the coolant. I also took the opportunity to check the spark plugs. They are overdue for change based on mileage interval, but look like new. (There has been much debate about the recommended replace interval for those plugs.)

I removed the base mount for the rear of the tank and coolant reservoir bottle and was able to remove the rear valve cover without additional disassembly.

On the 650 you also can do this by swinging the radiator forward and tying it out of the way. A sheet of cardboard across the radiator will protect it.

The only tricky bit was making sure the gaskets seated properly around the spark plug wells.

Also FWIW, CHECKING the clearances is relatively easy, for the nervous do that and if they are out of spec. button it back up and have the dealer do the adjust. The gain there is most times they don't need adjusting.
 

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So, what do I have after $375 or so spent? A clean bill of health . . . . is it worth it? Maybe not every dollar, but overall, I'd say yes. One of the big issues is putting the bike on the computer. That will tell a story too. But, get the service quoted for sure.
Peace of mind that it's been done and everything is well. Same reason I've always checked the valve clearances on my bikes at the recommended intervals. I haven't owned any long enough to establish a trend where I might be fairly confident that they've settled and I don't need to check them.
 

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I stopped by my buddy's house last weekend that bought my Strom in early 2014. It was sitting in his garage on a tender and had not been ridden since last spring. I think it was me who lubed the chain last when I sold it to him. This bike had the valves checked twice and only adjusted slightly the first time. It has 105,000 miles on it (less than 6,000 miles since he got it). It started better than my much pampered and highly maintained Tenere. The tires had some air so I took it out for him and spanked it proper to blow the dust off it. She is running damn strong for her miles/age.

He doesn't know how to perform any maintenance and if he did he would not be interested. He is the kind of guy where machines go to die. I will let you know when it blows up.
 

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I went too long on my '80 Kawi when it was new (still have it). It got increasingly hard to start and would barf out of the #3 carb at idle/off idle and the idle was rough, lumpy like a 2cyl John Deere 30. At high revs it would act similar to hitting a rev limiter although it doesn't have one. I had done shims myself at the time and two successive times since then.
Fast forward 36 years to last month. I'm in the process of a tread-up remake of the bike and this is the first time I've ever had the head and cylinder block off. The cast in valve seats look surprisingly clean and the valve faces show no sign of burning. The reed-type oil breather for that #3 cyl was excessively oily, but that's the only thing I've noticed.
-Rule of thumb for DIY shim jobs, go for the upper allowable range when replacing shims, and specify virgin new shims rather than using shims removed from some other bike-some shops may do that: were those shims also from a previous shim job?
 
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