It's due at 24,000kms not 20,000kms as far as I know.
I got mine checked last week and pondered the same question. Most recommended doing the first check and if they are still in spec don't worry about them for a while.

It seems highly unlikely they are out, but it does happen. It was worth it for me for peace fo mind.

BTW, mine did not need adjustment.

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Do It

I had both my 2014 V2s checked and one had three tight valves and the other was in spec. If I had left them, I would have burned a couple of valves in the one. You think the inspection is pricey, wait till you start replacing valves. It just isn't worth it. Besides, who wants to be out in the middle of nowhere when things start going south. Grit your teeth and get it done, then you'll have piece of mind and a grin on your face!https://www.stromtrooper.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=256017&thumb=1

 

Different bike here , I have a 2017 wee with 15,000 miles and I am doing the valve adjustments right now. All four of my exhaust valves were at the minimum spec and all four of the intake valves are at the middle of their ranges. It is not worth the risk, get it done or do it yourself.

 

Do it yourself. Its easier for the DL1000 since you don't have to content with the cam chain. Just magic mark the position of both gears in relation to an easy visible reference point.

You can buy individual shims (if it needs adjusting) from Rocky Mountain ATV.

Do a coolant change at the same time. Front cylinder access is much easier with the radiator removed.

 

Checked my 2018 1000 at 16K. One was out and a couple were close. Adjusted 6 of the 8 to middle or more. I'll wait until 50 K (30K now)to do it again.

 

I'd say the first one is the most important one, they tend to tighten (exhaust mostly) the most during that first interval.

if you do it yourself and have to change any shims, make sure to measure and record all the shims sizes and locations so the next time you only have to mess with the cams once.

 

it's due at 24,000km not 20,000. My dealer recommended waiting to 30k as he said he's never seen one be out at 24k. I do my own work, and will do it around 29k as I have nothign better to do in the middle of winter haha

You are going to be looking at doing throttle body sync, spark plugs and air filter, as part of the service as well so if you are doing that it's not a ton more work to do a Valve CHECK. The adjustment is only if they need to be. Also tell them to reuse the gaskets, they will be fine.

 

I have no idea what the warranty is on your bike, but if you do not do the valve check, and you burn a valve after the check point while the bike is in warranty, I'm reasonably sure you would not be covered.

 

On the wee, the general consensus is that setting the valves at maximum clearance will preclude having to check them again for the first 100k miles. I did my wee valves at 30k miles and the exhaust were within spec on the tight side. I set all eight as loose as spec would allow.

I haven't done the research to determine whether this is the case on the vee (heavier valves). Anyone have a sense of whether this still holds?

 

Not to post a "he said the she said that she was told by a guy who knows a guy ..." but my mechanic said that the valve adjustments are, in his experience, generally valve "checks" because "most are in spec.

For the peace of mind, speaking only for myself, I would do at least the first one. However, bikes that bounce off the rev limiter compared to those that aren't generally rev'd out so much do seem to hold adjustment better.

Lest you think I practice what I preach (or post) I have three ATVs that get regular oil changes and the like but have never had a valve adjustment - and they're much easier than many bikes!

 

Do it! There is a reason why the scheduled maintenance has you check the valves. Yes, very likely you dont have to adjust them. But, if they are out of spec get them adjuated before it becomes a bigger issue.

I remember my first valve check. I was anxious, but it got me very familiar with my bike. In addition you'll have the opportunity to do some other maintenance like flush the coolant system.

Cheers!

 

If you're not mechanically inclined, it would be a daunting job.

But if you want to give it a go, there is tonnes of help on this forum. You don't need any expensive specialized tools. That brings the cost way down to just your time and maybe the purchase of feeler gauges or something if you don't already have those (that's the cost of a few cups of coffee).

I would not worry about the exact mileage when you inspect but, rather, do it at a time that suits you and is at/after the suggested 24000 kms. I've checked mine 3 times in 205 000 kms. They were never far out and were fine at 24 000. I could probably have just left them unchecked altogether and still be fine. But, as someone earlier mentioned, you never know unless you check. You could probably do the first check, set them on the loose side of spec range and be done with it forever.

As for warranty, I think the only situation you might get bitten is if they turn out to be out of spec on a late first check. Probably they'll be fine and you can always ask the shop how they might deal with a situation like that before you make a decision. Any resulting problem would likely happen way after your warranty is toast anyhow.

 

Just performed first valve check on 2018 1000XT at ~ 14,700 miles. I infrequently ever rev above 6K but I ride aggressively with the throttle and fully maximize use of the torque curve with spirited acceleration. All but right rear exhaust valve clearances were at least .0015" - 002" above specified low limit. The one exhaust valve was just above low limit of .008". This was somewhat unexpected and the only one I adjusted to .010" which is in middle of clearance range .008"-.012". I was also wondering if others had similar experiences with rear cylinder exhaust valves as intuitively they should run the hottest.

Incidentally, I do not subscribe to or advocate setting valve clearances at max. gap in specified range just so you dont have to worry about checking in long run. The upper limit is just that in terms of tolerance band as set by the engineers. The valves are most likely to tighten up the most during the initial service mileage interval and then not move as much unless you like running at high revs for extended duration. Besides I didn't want an engine with noisy clattering valves.

First time around this job was more time consuming because I took time to do things correctly and next time around it will be much faster. The gear driven camshafts are an awesome feature for easy removal and installation. Just ensure you have decently accurate torque wrench rated in inch-pounds for re-installing camshaft journals and use the gradual cross-torquing and loosenig procedure. I would suggest the biggest opportunity for potential big mistake in this process is by uneven, over, or under torquing that could lead to camshaft/camshaft journal damage and expensive repairs.

Also if you are looking for extended life antifreeze dont waste time or money looking Suzuki's version as it is absurdly priced and only the standard life coolant is stocked by most dealers. At Advance Auto you can purchase Pentosin brand super extended life anti-freeze A3 HOAT phosphates with same blue dye color for less than half the cost < $20 per gallon.

http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_A3.pdf

 

Just performed first valve check on 2018 1000XT at ~ 14,700 miles. I infrequently ever rev above 6K but I ride aggressively with the throttle and fully maximize use of the torque curve with spirited acceleration. All but right rear exhaust valve clearances were at least .0015" - 002" above specified low limit. The one exhaust valve was just above low limit of .008". This was somewhat unexpected and the only one I adjusted to .010" which is in middle of clearance range .008"-.012". I was also wondering if others had similar experiences with rear cylinder exhaust valves as intuitively they should run the hottest.

Incidentally, I do not subscribe to or advocate setting valve clearances at max. gap in specified range just so you dont have to worry about checking in long run. The upper limit is just that in terms of tolerance band as set by the engineers. The valves are most likely to tighten up the most during the initial service mileage interval and then not move as much unless you like running at high revs for extended duration. Besides I didn't want an engine with noisy clattering valves.

First time around this job was more time consuming because I took time to do things correctly and next time around it will be much faster. The gear driven camshafts are an awesome feature for easy removal and installation. Just ensure you have decently accurate torque wrench rated in inch-pounds for re-installing camshaft journals and use the gradual cross-torquing and loosenig procedure. I would suggest the biggest opportunity for potential big mistake in this process is by uneven, over, or under torquing that could lead to camshaft/camshaft journal damage and expensive repairs.

Also if you are looking for extended life antifreeze dont waste time or money looking Suzuki's version as it is absurdly priced and only the standard life coolant is stocked by most dealers. At Advance Auto you can purchase Pentosin brand super extended life anti-freeze A3 HOAT phosphates with same blue dye color for less than half the cost < $20 per gallon.

http://www.pentosin.net/specsheets/Pentofrost_A3.pdf

Thanks for the info, I have to do my 2018 1000XT in about 3k miles, the bike just turned 1 year today. I was looking around and watching videos, but I'm wondering is it possible to tear down the front and rear at the same time? I usually pull shims and then swap them at my local dealer, but if I have to put one side back together before I can pull the other side that would likely require an extra day of downtime.

 

OK I've paid my deposit. The bike is a 2018/14k. The selling dealing won't check the valve clearances pre sale. He just said if you find they are out in the next three months we'll talk about it but the engine sounds sweet as, no clatter on cold start up. What's the realistic chance it'll be out so early, I.e. disastrously out? Also, it's got a Scorpion aftermarket exhaust. Can this affect how hot etc it runs/affect the valves?

I'm a newb to bike maintenance although I have a friend who is very good mechanically? Whats the best how to YouTube to use as a reference if I can employ his skill to assist??

 

Loose valves make noise, but tight valves dont(Usual scenario) and can lead to burning. A dealer rep. (Sales, mech. or others) telling you that shows that they are incompetent or deceitful.

 

I finally got the clearances checked on my 2016 (purchased new in 2018) Strom at 33400kms. All clearances were in spec and no adjustment needed. The motor has spent most of its life under 5500 Rpm and I reckon that may have helped. Like others here I ride it briskly but rely on the excellent torque rather than revs for progress.

 

@Plutohora I assume your 14k is in kilometers, and I'm pretty sure the DL1000 has the same maintenance schedule for valve inspection as my DL650: 24k km / 14,500 miles. I wouldn't worry about it until then. Though I would make sure you do it at 24k km. My (DL650) intakes were borderline, and my exhausts were shockingly tight.

And it may be different Down Under, but I wouldn't trust any dealer who says "if they're out in the next three months, we'll talk about it". Talk means diddly-squat.

 

I own a 2018 bl1000.
Should I really do the 20,000 km valve adjustment?
From experience, what are the chances that the valves are off?

After all it’s a pricy service ...

I just did the valve adjust on my 2023 DL1050 at 15,000 miles. Some might think it was a waste of time, since technically none of them were out of spec. But, 7 of the 8 were right on the minimum spec allowed. The 8th was .001" over the minimum, so. every valve in the engine was tight. If you had taken it to a dealership, they would have left them alone, since they all were "in spec". I adjusted them all to be in the middle of the spec. Is sure worth the peace of mind, since I wander thousands of miles away from home on it. Remember, a loose valve doesn't do that much harm. Just can make it a little harder to start, lose a little power, and make it a little noisy. But a tight valve can burn the valve and the seat. That repair will be a LOT more $$$ than an adjustment.

 

Thanks for checking in on this - good to know! I'm doing my valve adjustment this winter before installing the electronic cruise control. My current plan is to set them all on the loose 1/3 end of spec and call it good until 60k.

 

I've learned my lesson regarding valve adjustment. Unfortunately, I sometimes have to learn the hard way. Hope this information helps.

I owned a 2016 Triumph Tiger 800. I decided to take a chance and see how long I can go. After 40,000 miles, lost compression and damaged valves. Salvaged the bike.

I purchased a used 2014 Vstrom 1000 with 17,000 miles to replace the Tiger. After 18,700 miles on Vstrom, I performed valve clearance check. 2 of 8 were out of spec (too tight). 4 were at their limit (lower). I adjusted 6 of 8 valves.

There is a great thread regarding valve clearance inspection. I found it on the 2014-2016 Vstrom 1000 forum.

I owned a 2009 Vstrom 650. It had 56,000 miles on it when sold. I had never checked the valves.

I owned three Kawasaki Concours 1000. Screw and nut vavle adjustment. Interval was every 7500 miles. I would perform once per year. Adjusted several valves (intake were loose and exhaust were tight). After I would get a good adjustment, many times I could go 20,000 miles without adjustment.