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Discussion Starter #1
I've got right about 6,000 miles logged, all seems to be well. But then again, how would I really know...

Manual says to check/adjust valves at 14,500 miles.

Have any of you done this nearer to the mileage I've got, and was the effort and/or cost justified? Did they need adjusting at under 10,000 miles?

Thanks.
 

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Premium Member
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My Wee was fine at 14K. The Vee at 14K needed an adjustment. That's a 4 hour job. Spend the $300 on something else if the bike is running OK.

Rod
07 Vee
Riverview, FL
 

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I had mine checked at 6200 and they were all in spec, or so the dealer said. Other people have had theirs checked early and I don't think any have been out of spec.
 

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What Kinda Bike Is That?
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I didn't have mine done until 22,000 miles.

I made a chart for the dealership mechanic, (really nice guy with 32 years of motorcycle repair experience) to fill out to establish a baseline for future reference. For each valve on each cylinder I asked him to fill out: Current Clearance, Current Shim Thickness, Replaced Shim Thickness.

Only my rear, cylinder intakes valves were a tad tight.

I also had them replace spark plugs, coolant, do a T.B.S. using the SDS and a T.P.S.

I flushed and changed the brake fluid. Glad I did. There were little sparkley flakes of metal in the flushed, old fluid.

The bike definitely has more grunt then the end of last season. I really like it!
 

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Steve, has your riding season started yet? This question makes it sound like you are in the latter stages of Chronic Cabin Fever :mrgreen:.

Of course wait. I'm new to Stroms but most Japanese engines need time for their valves to need adjusting. On many Japanese bikes, maybe Stroms(?), the valves often only need one careful adjustment and then they are almost always good when checked later.

Wait. Unless for some reason you want to add 14,500 miles to 6,000 for your next check.
 

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Only my rear, cylinder intakes valves were a tad tight.
I just checked mine with 10,000 miles on it. Same as above. The rear intake valves were at 0.003" but on the front cylinder, the intakes were both at 0.004". The exhaust valves on both cylinders were 0.008". I am going to leave it alone and check it again when I get back from Alaska.
 

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I have around that mileage, and I'm honestly not real worried about it. I'll check my valves later on this Summer/Fall, my bike runs fantastic as is.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Too tight valves don't make noise and valve clearances that change get tighter with time. If they get too tight, you start losing power when the engine warms. Eventually the bike will get hard to start and the valves will get burnt.
 
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