StromTrooper banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It was about time for at least a check if not an adjust on my 2003 dl 1000. I have 14,000 miles on it. Having worked on bikes most of my life I wasn't to overly concerned about the procedure but read Mighty Sheps sticky on it just to bone up on the particulars. I had bought a complete set of shims from Hot Cams and was ready to go. As was stated the biggest pain is removing all of the plastic. I did the front cylinder first. I always try for the mean dimension on the specs. Intake .004-.008=.006. Exhaust .008-.012=.010. One exhaust was .010 and the the other was .009. One intake was .004 and the other was .005. The one thing that I have found with the Strom and other bikes is the factory has other shims available other than what is called for in the specs. By that I mean the replacement shims go by .05 mm. but some of the shims I pulled out were 272's. This just means that you'll need to do a little math to make sure what clearance you end up with. Finished up the front cylinder, rotated it by hand several times and then rechecked. Everything was good. Now on to the rear cylinder. The reason for this post is to clarify what needs to be done for proper checking and then cam removal on the rear cylinder. The service manual says to check the clearance on the rear cylinder, rotate the engine 270 degrees (3/4 turn) from the front cylinder until the RT mark shows up and the cam postion looks like the illustration. No problem here. The problem arises if you need to make adjustments ie. remove the rear cams.
When you do the front cylinder you remove the cams with the timing mark at FT but not RT on the rear cams. You need to rotate the engine to FT also for removing the rear cams. The service manual spells this out in chapter 3 page 109 of my service manual. This is the section on replacing the cams. They should have been more specific in the periodic maintenance chapter 2-8. The reason for this is because the horizontal register marks on the rear cams will not be parallel with the cam cover surface with the engine at RT and if you remove them you will not know where to put them back in. It all makes sense once you do it, it's just that having worked on bikes for a long time I "assumed" that both cylinders would be a TDC for the complete procedure, checking and removal. Anyway, the rear valves almost mimicked the front valves, one good and the others a thou or so off. I was starting to sweat a little when 4 of the factory shims were 272's and the Hot Cam kit only gives you 3 of each size. Luckily I squeaked by on the one valve by giving it a touch more clearance than the mean dimension, still within specs but just a tick looser. As Might Shep stated, set out 6 hours for the process. I got done in 5-1/2 and that included a break for a cool one and a sandwich.
gbritnell
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Amen brother

Perfect timing (no pun) with your post. I just rolled in from the garage and sat down to solve my puzzle. In the past I was good about placing an "alignment" mark with paint or a marker whenever I worked with camshafts or replacing timing belts. I was in a little rush this evening when I popped out the intake cam and was left scratching my head when I couldn't find a factory alignment mark! I have a maintenance manual but never found the directions to rotate to the front mark as you stated. Thank you for the timely post.
I have a new to me 2003 DL1000 and found both exhaust valves on the rear cylinder are at the tight end of the spectrum. Of course I can only find shim increments of "5" at the dealership and one of the shims started life as a 288. Guess my choice is to be uncomfortably loose or wait for a shim through the mail. Also had some of those 272's you spoke of.....
Thanks again for the timely post!
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
I read somewhere that "slappy valves are happy valves." IOW, you shouldn't target the "center" of the spec range, you should target the upper range. The thinking was that since overhead cam-driven valves will tend to have the clearances CLOSE instead of OPEN, you'd be better off shimming to the largest clearance allowable - given time, it'll close down anyway.

Maybe it's just insurance against developing a tight valve before the next service interval, and if service intervals are frequent enough (and the bike's build/ design is robust enough), I suppose it wouldn't matter.

Just throwing it out there because it seems pretty relevant - I'll leave the interpretation up to the experts.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top