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The OP post should be a stickey for what kind of abuse a Strom can take and still run!

Next time some nervous rider is stressing about a minor maintainance detail send them here!

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Yes, I am thinking about ditching my "break in" on my new Vstrom 650. I have 270 miles on it and I am getting tired of the 5,000 rpm limit. I read where someone on here stated that folks who do not follow the break in as the manual states may not get over 100k miles on it like the folks who do follow the break in schedule. I don't care. I will probably not own this bike or any bike that long.
 

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Feel welcome to ask questions or criticize my choices.
Still can't figure out if this is a piss-take, so kudos on that and I'll take the bait anyway.

still gets 350 miles out of a full tank full of gas
Surprising, that's about 100 miles more than anyone should reasonably expect.

Wear out a set of rear brake pads every season. Never changed the front. They don't have any wear on them. I don't brake using the front brakes except in panic braking situations. I brake only using the rear. It is how I learned to ride..
Might want to un-learn that dangerous habit. You won't get a feel for maximum braking without making front brake use a regular thing. There are soft pads that work just fine up front, and would be cheaper than trashing your rear rotor or baking the rear hub to death because that paper thin disc isn't up to task.

Recently I went down a mountain road which was so steep that I had to lock the rear wheel and skid the rear wheel down the steepest parts. Was going slow, brake rotor was hot, never had a braking problem, no warping, no stopping problems with this rotor which was woren to 2.5 mm thick.
Consider adding engine braking, a locked rear wheel isn't very good at slowing the bike down.

I change the oil every 10,000
There are oils that cost half as much as the Mobil that you could change 2-3x as often
 

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Still can't figure out if this is a piss-take, so kudos on that and I'll take the bait anyway.



Surprising, that's about 100 miles more than anyone should reasonably expect.



Might want to un-learn that dangerous habit. You won't get a feel for maximum braking without making front brake use a regular thing. There are soft pads that work just fine up front, and would be cheaper than trashing your rear rotor or baking the rear hub to death because that paper thin disc isn't up to task.



Consider adding engine braking, a locked rear wheel isn't very good at slowing the bike down.



There are oils that cost half as much as the Mobil that you could change 2-3x as often
Good points. Very weird not to use the front brake. I doubt I could get my bike to stop in time without the front brake.
 

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The whole thing sounds hokey to me. I question 57000 miles from a chain, especially running a car tire which is much heavier than a m/c tire. And 350 mile range comes out to 70 mpg, which is also unlikely with said car tire. Not to mention, only using the front brake for panic stops means in a panic situation there will be an accident, because as we all know, if you aren't used to using it you will not have the muscle memory to use it in a panic situation.
My guess is this was meant humorously, or else trolling.
 

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And I thought I was a slacker....

Your bike will know if you love it. If you treat it bad it may leave you stranded. When it does it will be at night, on a Sunday, in the rain, in a questionable area, and when you are tired.
 

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And I thought I was a slacker....

Your bike will know if you love it. If you treat it bad it may leave you stranded. When it does it will be at night, on a Sunday, in the rain, in a questionable area, and when you are tired.
And the battery in your phone will be low.
 

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Yes, I am thinking about ditching my "break in" on my new Vstrom 650. I have 270 miles on it and I am getting tired of the 5,000 rpm limit. I read where someone on here stated that folks who do not follow the break in as the manual states may not get over 100k miles on it like the folks who do follow the break in schedule. I don't care. I will probably not own this bike or any bike that long.
I finished the break in of my bike in two weeks. I did not follow the 5k RPM limit. I raised the limits by 1k RPM. So 6k limit with the occasional trip to 7k (very short spin to it). Never WOT. Never lugged engine. I also broke the bike in using a route that minimized highway droning. When I reached 600 miles, I changed the oil and filter (no shavings came out of drain plug magnet). The next 400 miles I revved to 8k for very short durations. Still no WOT, no lugging. The funny thing is, that's how I ride the bike now after break in. I don't need to rev the piss out of it unless I'm passing on a mountain road, and even then I don't redline it. Come to think of it I've only redlined the engine once in all the 2,500 miles I've had it. Nor have I given it WOT yet.
 

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No redline?

You have got to occasionally "give it the ketchup".
 

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No redline?

You have got to occasionally "give it the ketchup".
Yeah I need to do it. Haven't had the need as she boogies along at 9k RPM.

I changed the oil again at 2k because it was so easy, and because I wanted to see if I had any shavings....no shavings.

I remember my DR650 had shavings all the time. More during break in. Lesser after 20k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Everything in the OP is true. I don't expect everyone to take my word for it. I'll follow up with a couple pics once I get all the parts and change the old ones Got the sprockets, rotor, brake pads, waiting on the chain.

For those who didn't realize, the 2008 model year of the wee has a 5.8 gallon fuel tank.

350 miles / 5.8 gallons equals about 60 miles/gallon. This is using regular unleaded gas.

I would expect there are those on this forum getting 62 - 65 miles per gallon running supreme.

Most of the time my bike is traveling between 45 - 50 mph. Rural country roads. Gas mileage at 70 mph drops a bunch. It is not a linear relationship between miles per gallon and speed.

Everyone's generation 1 Wee-Strom gets 350 miles per tank when riding 45 - 50 mph. 350 miles per tank from a DL-650 is un-remarkable. The bike has a giant tank.

Pic of my BMW themed DL-650. I didn't remove the DL-650 sticker from the rear panel. That sticker is hidden by the saddle bag when viewing it from the side. Most people don't see it.


Pic of the car tire on the rear. Tire is an Achilles Economist (175/55/R17). It is the only 175/55/R17 I could find in the USA.

Most people putting a car tire on a V-STROM use a 205 size tire since there is a wider selection. Problem with a 205 is there is very little chain clearance. Some 205 won't clear at all and rub. Putting a 205 sized tire requires some researching to see which brands clear the chain. With a 175 there is plenty of clearance.

12,000 miles on this tire. Compare the tread with a pic of a new one. A CT lasts so long because there is so much rubber to wear away compared to a motorcycle tire.


Pic of the micrometer reading of the rear rotor. NB micrometer reads 0.101 in which equals 2.56 mm. The thickness started out to be about 5 mm, limit of wear is 4.5 mm. This is way beyond that but had no problems.

I'll take a pic of the micrometer on the front caliper showing it is mostly unused once I start working on it. As well as a pic of the odometer reading.

 

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Front wheel typically won't lock up much if any with ABS on wet roads "doesn't sound like you have ABS", even works remarkably well on sandy or flat gravel roads.. Glad you came back to prove you aren't a troll, and no that gas mileage you are obtaining is most certainly not the norm here. Rear brake is not designed or intended for much braking power, as yes 70/75 % of braking power occurs from the front, just like they use in superbike racing. :) I don't recommend anyone to use only the rear brake except along with the fronts or for a bit of trail braking, but at the speeds you like to ride at it doesn't seem to be a problem. :)
 

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Everything in the OP is true. I don't expect everyone to take my word for it. I'll follow up with a couple pics once I get all the parts and change the old ones Got the sprockets, rotor, brake pads, waiting on the chain.

For those who didn't realize, the 2008 model year of the wee has a 5.8 gallon fuel tank.

350 miles / 5.8 gallons equals about 60 miles/gallon. This is using regular unleaded gas.

I would expect there are those on this forum getting 62 - 65 miles per gallon running supreme.

Most of the time my bike is traveling between 45 - 50 mph. Rural country roads. Gas mileage at 70 mph drops a bunch. It is not a linear relationship between miles per gallon and speed.

Everyone's generation 1 Wee-Strom gets 350 miles per tank when riding 45 - 50 mph. 350 miles per tank from a DL-650 is un-remarkable. The bike has a giant tank.
From my 2009 DL650 I usually fill up when I get to the last block on the gauge, which is usually about 450kms. I only need 17-18 liters to fill which means that I might normally get 550kms+ (440miles+) from my 22 liter tank. Usually.

The open road speed limit is 100kph here and sticking to backroads and dirt means that I have no need for high rpm operation, and yes, those sustained high speed runs really chew through the gas.
 

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I'm of the opinion that the brake rotor minimum thickness has nothing to do with the fact that the rotor will / will not work beyond the minimum thickness. I think that it has rather to do with the brake caliper cup being extended beyond the caliper housing during braking and then retracking vs the drag forces on the caliper cup breaking free of the caliper housing and causing brake failure / wheel lock up. Maybe I'm wrong on these thoughts.
 

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Glad to see the OP did a follow up post, I was a little skeptical, it seemed troll like. With that said some of his experiences are similar to mine.

Chain - I have 50K miles on mine with no signs of wear, I also lube it frequently with gear oil or ATF. The rear sprocket is in good shape, the front replaced at 34K miles.

Mileage - I typically get 63-68 MPG on regular and do similar riding as the OP, back road cruising 45-60 MPH, light traffic, almost no stop and go. Extended highway riding at 80 mph will push mileage below 60, but rarely done. I fill up often after 300 miles, but after 98K miles on the Wee filling the tank always required less than 5 gallons.

I'm not sure how the OP can only use the back brake, I don't feel I'd be able to even get the bike to stop if using it, it's feeble if used on it's own.

As far as the car tire, I'd rather not. I did follow a guy (StromTrooper RandyO) who had one mounted. I was curious to see what the tire did in a corner, and was surprised to see the entire tread staying in contact with the pavement as the sidewall flexed. I guess the flexing sidewall creates a lot of heat. The guy tried the car tire for winter, he rode in the snow a lot. He say any off roading didn't work well, especially with uneven surfaces and rocks.

The old rule of thumb was change oil every 3K miles, but oil has improved dramatically over the years. I just picked up a BMW R1200R - oil change interval is 6K miles! I used to change the Wee's oil at 4K miles along with a new filter. Now, as per the manual I change at bit earlier, but only replace the filter every 3rd oil change. Also always changed the oil in my old Ford Ranger every 3K miles, just had it changed at the dealer, they said come back again in 7500 miles. I'm trying to adapt to this new world even though it feels wrong.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I'm not sure how the OP can only use the back brake, I don't feel I'd be able to even get the bike to stop if using it, it's feeble if used on it's own.
Understand what is being said concerning the feebleness concerning the rear brakes on a vstrom. I experience that after changing the rear pads. The weakness of the braking is a, "you've got to be kidding", type of joke. The pad eventually wear-in and the rear brakes become usable again.

On my bike, once the rear pad wear-in I'm able to lock the rear wheel on dry, clean pavement, with both MC tires and that CT. Lock it enough so the ABS kicks in and can hear the tire squeal against the road between the ABS pulses. This is with regular foot pressure, not standing up on the rear brake lever.

Someone mentioned the 70/30 mix of braking with 70 percent of braking happening on the front wheel.

The 70/30 ratio between front/back is only true once the front brake is applied, shifting weight from the rear wheel to the front.

When the front brake isn't applied, this weight shift doesn't happen. One has more stopping power on the rear wheel when the front brakes aren't used because there is more weight remaining on the back wheel.

Once the front brake is activated, the bike dives, lifting the rear wheel, the stopping power of the rear wheel is substantially reduced.

Using the rear wheel as a primary source of braking doesn't mean the right hand isn't on the front brake lever when using the rear brake. A rider has to have their hands in position to use both brakes if that is needed.

Aside, watching other riders ride, most of them don't counter steer into their turns, they lean. Where leaning kills riders is entering a turn too fast. They can't lean enough or quickly enough they end up swerving into on-coming lane. When there is on-coming traffic, it is a head on collision.

Counter steering saves a rider on two fronts. It takes speed off the bike without using the brake, a rider has to throttle during the turn to maintain speed. Counter steering allows a rider to make tighter turns compared to leaning.

When riding two up the rear passenger leaning can affect turns where the driver also leans. A passenger's leaning has less effect when the driver counter steers instead of leaning. A passenger leaning can't over come the gyroscopic force of the front tire.
 

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Why put a car tire on a bike and add all that weight and ill-handling? Just put a Michelin Pilot Road 5 and get 10k miles out of it while keeping the motorcycle handling. But to each their own I suppose.

The BMW logo though is.....(n) C'mon man! That's low. If you're happy with your VStrom because it's been good to you, then do it proud by putting the Suzuki Logo on. Give Suzuki credit where credit is due.
 

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Glad to see the OP did a follow up post, I was a little skeptical, it seemed troll like. With that said some of his experiences are similar to mine.

Chain - I have 50K miles on mine with no signs of wear, I also lube it frequently with gear oil or ATF. The rear sprocket is in good shape, the front replaced at 34K miles.
Can you please take a picture of your chain/sprockets? Better yet, take a video of it rolling. I'd like to see if there are any tight/loose spots and kinks. Not trying to flame you, I'm genuinely curious. I've never had a chain last longer than 20k miles. I pushed one to almost 30k miles but it was full of kinks and had a definite tight spot. And I clean and lube my chain AT LEAST every 600 miles.
 
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