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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am taking my 2011 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 up to Alaska with a friend on Friday, and my fuel pump has stopped working. I'm pretty sure that the problem is the high-pressure fuel filter inside the fuel pump assembly, as I have replaced the pump itself already. I really need some help finding either
1) A new fuel pump assembly for a V-Strom. Even the old style should work fine.
2) A way to clean out the current assembly, perhaps with some sort of jury-rigged pump to run fuel backwards?
3) A source for cleaning out the tank or replacing the tank (the problem might be that the tank itself is full of garbage).

The full story happened like this:
Last Saturday (6/20/2015) my V-Strom stopped revving above 6000RPM in fifth gear. It behaved exactly the same way that it did when the fuel pump died on V-Strom last year. I removed the tank, pulled out the fuel pump, drained a bunch of gunk from it, blew some air through it, put it back in and ordered a new one. I was still having the RPM problem, but not as badly. Today, I replaced the fuel pump with a new one and the problem is much worse.

This all happened about two weeks after I removed the tank for the first time this year, so it's possible that some gunk built up in the bottom of the bike over the winter and then got in the filter.

The story is pretty similar to this one from the Stromtrooper forums:
dl1000-2002-2012/74338-fuel-pump-replacement-dl1000

But the bypass option doesn't work for K7 & up filters (V-Strom post-2007).

This is really urgent, as I need to solve it this week so I don't miss the trip of a lifetime. Any help would be really appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, RealShelby, that might work. Unfortunately, Me2's post (231 & 232) is missing the two images showing where to drill from the top-down perspective. I have been hunting for those unsuccessfully, do you know where I could find them or similar photos?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks BugMagnet, those images are good, though I was wondering about the images above the headings:

"Drill as shown through the filter inlet (pump outlet) hole."
and
"The angle of the drill from above."

They seem to be broken links.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I think those pics are for the DL1000 and early DL650 fuel pumps. The 2007+ DL650 fuel pump is different.

Ignore this. I was mistaken.
 

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I think those pics are for the DL1000 and early DL650 fuel pumps. The 2007+ DL650 fuel pump is different.
Greywolf, the pics in the post above should be the 2007 and later style pump. It is different from the 2003 DL 1000 I done, the plastic is black on those pump assemblies where you drill iirc. The author of the post I linked to states it is a post 2006 Wee.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Good. I thought the links to those pics got lost.

A further check indicates it's the top view of the drill angle that is missing.
 

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... Today, I replaced the fuel pump with a new one and the problem is much worse.

This all happened about two weeks after I removed the tank for the first time this year, so it's possible that some gunk built up in the bottom of the bike over the winter and then got in the filter...

This is really urgent, as I need to solve it this week so I don't miss the trip of a lifetime. Any help would be really appreciated!
Just this weekend I replaced both the "coarse" fuel filter strainer (in the lowest point in the pump assembly) and the high-pressure filter (and regulator?), so I am familiar with those items.

Did you just, today, install a complete fuel pump assembly like the one shown in the first picture below or just some portion (motor?) of it? If you installed a complete new pump assembly it should have had a new coarse strainer at the bottom of the pump assembly that should have filtered any "garbage" - preventing it from causing harm this soon.

I don't know how familiar you are with the fuel pump assembly, but it's a fairly simple assembly. Very easy to disassemble. Three small screws are removed, a couple electrical leads are simply pulled apart, then the rest of the items simply pull apart.

If you've just installed a new complete fuel pump assembly then I don't know what to tell you.

If you've somehow not installed a new "coarse" strainer at the bottom of the fuel pump and not installed a new high-pressure filter / regulator assembly, then I suggest you get those two items sent to you via express delivery (or via dealer if nearby) and that that you carefully replace those two items, probably ordering and installing the few O-rings involved at the same time.

A word of caution. It's very easy to overlook a small "bridge" piece of plastic that can stay on the old high-pressure filter when it's removed. This piece must be removed (simply pulled off) and installed on the new filter assembly or the pump won't function correctly and the bike won't run (DAMHIK).

Good luck and please keep us updated. I'd like to know what you learn about your problem. And good luck with the trip. I hope you get to make it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the message, HokiesRWee.

If you've somehow not installed a new "coarse" strainer at the bottom of the fuel pump and not installed a new high-pressure filter / regulator assembly, then I suggest you get those two items sent to you via express delivery (or via dealer if nearby) and that that you carefully replace those two items, probably ordering and installing the few O-rings involved at the same time.
So far, I have replaced the pump with a new HighFlow, which also includes a new coarse filter. Unfortunately, a new high-pressure filter / regulator assembly costs upwards of $250 USD. I'm going to try to do the bypass with a NAPA 2032 filter.
(Sorry, I can't include links yet it's found by searching "i-13178964-new-suzuki-t35-uc-t35-intank-replacement-efi-fuel-pump-dl650-dl650al2-v-strom-vstrom-650-2008-2013")

A word of caution. It's very easy to overlook a small "bridge" piece of plastic that can stay on the old high-pressure filter when it's removed. This piece must be removed (simply pulled off) and installed on the new filter assembly or the pump won't function correctly and the bike won't run (DAMHIK).
Yeah, that one made me raise an eyebrow for a second, but in reality it is a pretty simple device. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's still a great post, but do you have any idea where I could find pictures from the top angle?
 

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This is a very similar looking filter and pump on a bandit, and how the owner fixed it:

Fuel Pump Fix

With pics
 

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It looks like the part in the 2011 DL650 fuel pump with the fine filter is called the Regulator part # 15610-27G00. It is around $100 USD or $135 up here if you just wanted to swap it out. You could email eddie at motorcycle world to get you one, it usually takes 2 days to get parts in if in stock back east.

[email protected]

You should have Eddie verify this information before ordering one as well, I got the part number from an old post on this forum.

http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl650-dl650a-2004-2011/48727-external-fuel-filter-modification.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Fuel Pump Modification Results

I just did the modification:
- cleaned the tank out with solvent, then rinsed with methyl hydrate
- drilled out the casing
- put a new NAPA 3023 filter in between a new 5/16" fuel injection line clamped down firmly on each side.

Before the modification, the fuel pump test only output 100ml for two ignition cycles. After the mod, it put out just over 200ml for three ignition cycles, so not much of a difference, and far short of the 300ml it is supposed to be. I was still going to take it for a test run to see if anything changed at all.

And the bike won't start.

The starter turns over, but doesn't catch.

I removed the NAPA filter and re-installed the original fuel line to see if that was the problem, it wasn't. Any suggestions?
 

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I might be able to. We drilled the outer casing and not the internal square section as pictured. If we're supposed to please advise.

i.imgur.com /BYIuS9s.jpg

The bike will no longer start. A 3x ignition fuel flow test results in 200ml, same amount as before. We have removed the bypass in-line fuel filter in an attempt to start with no luck.

Fuel and air can be sensed from the exhaust and the motor is turning via a charged battery, heavy charge assist and a bump start but won't start. I'm wondering if chemical starting assistance should be used... we'll check for spark and compression first.

The spark plugs have less than 1k on them. The trip is likely in serious jeopardy

For some reason there's a clicking noise once as the throttle comes off idle then another 10th of a turn. It's very peculiar.
 

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You'll probably have to go to a dealer for fast service. Online places don't stock such parts. They get them from the same places your dealer does so they can't even ship until your dealer can have it in his hands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Time to see just how quickly a regulator can ship. Hopefully someone has a 1-day shipping option.
Called all the local shops (starting with motorcycle world), nobody has sold just the regulator, and it's back-ordered from Japan.

Ron Ayers to the rescue! The regulator should be here by Thursday.

The thing that's scaring me now is when the bike has power (without the engine running) and I turn the throttle, it makes a rapid-fire clicking noise. It happens both turning the throttle on, and letting it off. It sounds like it's coming from the fuel pump, but fuel is still going through the line (I did the fuel pump test again), so I don't think I hooked up any wires wrong. Any ideas?
 
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