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Discussion Starter #1
While I'm replacing the fork springs I wanted to replace the upper brake line (have the Galfer +2") to work with the Rox 2" risers. I don't see how to get to that nut on the back of the metal block that sits at the top of the radiator. It is attached to a metal line running back and there is no slack to pull it out and get a wrench on it. I tried loosening the radiator but to move it looks like it would require removing all the fairings around it. It is looking like an incredible amount of work just to replace one brake line. I know others have talked about doing this, and since I've not read any complaints about getting to this nut, what am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Figured it out. I have a radiator guard, didn't think about removing since it only adds less than 1/8", but it also sticks up about 1/8". With the guard off, there's just enough space to get a 10mm open end wrench in there. Not the best angle but looks like it will work if that nut is not too tight. I'm still open to tips and suggestions.
 

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I tried that. The wrench kept slipping off the nut. After scraping up the top of the radiator I decided to wait to install the brake line until I could lower the radiator. Once you get the line disconnected there is the tiny piece that you insert into the fitting attached to the metal line. this looks like it will be difficult if there isn't enough clearance to get your fingers around the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I tried that. The wrench kept slipping off the nut. After scraping up the top of the radiator I decided to wait to install the brake line until I could lower the radiator. Once you get the line disconnected there is the tiny piece that you insert into the fitting attached to the metal line. this looks like it will be difficult if there isn't enough clearance to get your fingers around the line.
They call that little brass piece a "conic 'olive' inversor", I think it's just a fancy name for a washer to help seal the connection. Getting that in place could be an issue. Going to give it a try as I really want those risers. Actually, they're on now, I just can't adjust them back where I need them to be comfortable, and the brake line is already snug.
 

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Did you see the other thread about re-routing brake and clutch cables behind the triple tree? I am going to try that. The guy left the throttle in the front but took it out of the guide.
 

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The problem with that is that on the newer bikes the lower end of the upper brake line is attached to the bottom of the steering head where it connects to the lines going back to the ABS control. This means you can't really reroute the line. When I added higher bars I removed the line from the guide that holds it to the frame. I was able to get just enough clearance to use the ATV High bars, but any more would require a longer line.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you see the other thread about re-routing brake and clutch cables behind the triple tree? I am going to try that. The guy left the throttle in the front but took it out of the guide.
I'm rerouting all the other cables, but as noted, you can't do that with the brake line. There is a 90-deg bend coming out of the bottom of that little aluminum block and (for some reason unbeknownst to me) it angles toward the opposite side of the bike from the brake lever. If you could spin that angle around the other direction, it could run up behind the triple-tree just fine.
 

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Helibars/Galfer 5" extension

I used the 5"extension from Helibars.
Works perfectly, and gives me TONS of slack.

I re-routed all my other cables behind the upper tree. Plenty of slack everywhere now.
 
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