Doug, first it is only money and you're got out of that incident in a good shape.Well, I am healing pretty well after I went down a week and a half ago (on 6/21 I think). Finally got the Wee out of the shed yesterday with an eye towards trying to ride it. Originally thought I had rashed just my Givi saddlebag and a mirror as well as breaking my clutch handle. Found a bunch more yesterday when I got the bike out and was doing my pre-ride checks. Rashed the front end, windscreen, upper fairing and lower fairing. Scratched tank. Scratched left side of my headlight. The handlebars are tweaked, the left side is lower.
So, I called my insurance and told them that I do need to file for damage to the motorcycle. They told me to take it to my local Suzuki dealer and get an estimate and they would send an adjuster over there to check it out with in the next week. I was stunned when I got the estimate from my dealer. The cost is $3261.61 to put the bike back like it was pre accident. Wow. That is a lot. And just for a 25 mph lowside. Now I am just waiting to hear from the insurance adjuster.
Wish me luck.
A Rat-Strom! I like the idea! :green_lol:Buy the salvage, get a new V-Strom, then gain practical experience rehabbing the crashed bike.
Good chance to learn tupperware repair.
Anybody ever see a Rat Vee?:biggrinjester:
I didn't think it was that bad either. I replaced the clutch lever on it and started it in the shed. Even rode it a little but I was still hurting (my foot and ankle and my hand and wrist). Waited for them to get enough better and then took it out and did a close inspection day before yesterday. That is when I saw all the damage. None of it real bad, but somehow I managed to either rash or scratch almost everything on the front and the left side including the tank. It appears that motorcycles don't get sent to the body shop like cars. They replace any panels on a motorcycle that have damage. Go figure. I was astounded when I got my estimate.I am surprised by the amount of damage and the cost of the repair; based on your initial post, it did not seem that bad ;-)
It's always amazing what plastic and metal rashes cost to repair.I didn't think it was that bad either. I replaced the clutch lever on it and started it in the shed. Even rode it a little but I was still hurting (my foot and ankle and my hand and wrist). Waited for them to get enough better and then took it out and did a close inspection day before yesterday. That is when I saw all the damage. None of it real bad, but somehow I managed to either rash or scratch almost everything on the front and the left side including the tank. It appears that motorcycles don't get sent to the body shop like cars. They replace any panels on a motorcycle that have damage. Go figure. I was astounded when I got my estimate.
Local Suzuki dealer says no hidden damage that they could find (I pretty much already knew that), it is all cosmetic damage except the handlebars. The bike is actually ridable now. I rode it over to the dealers. I do want to keep this bike.It's always amazing what plastic and metal rashes cost to repair.
I'am with you. If they total it, buy back the salvage out of the check and see what it would cost you to do most of the repairs. My 2005 FJR was in an accident. Insurance company wanted to total based on scratched plastic, a rear wheel (rim bent) and new handlebars and broken clutch lever. Oh and one damaged auxiliary light. I can't remember the exact total amount but it was ridiculous in the neighborhood of $5,500. There was no structural damage or concerns.
I took off all the plastic/fiberglass myself. About a 45 minute job as I had never removed all the plasic before. Took it to an independent boat body and fiberglass repair guy here locally. He repaired all the scratched and cracked and rashed fiberglass and repainted all the pieces in the original Galaxy Blue. Total bill to repair and repaint all the fiberglass/plastic was under $500. Clutch lever was $18 and new ABS wheel was around $300. Picked up handlebars at junk yard for about $35. My complete cost for everything was just at about $800. I did NOT put on new emblems because they wanted way too much money for simple Yamaha emblems; besides I know which bike I am riding at the time.:mrgreen:
Original Equipment fiberglass and sheet metal is ridiculously expensive when you can get it repaired for 20% of new at a local shop. If they total and it is not structurally damaged and thus safe to ride ... I'm with you. Keep it.
I was going to ask this myself. Please don't consider this a hijack of your thread. First and foremost, I am glad to hear that you are ok.Glad the healing process is continuing for you. It's always slower than any of us would like.
I was not given the opportunity to buy back my wife's totaled bike. I wasn't interested and didn't ask for it, but they never brought it up either.
They are going to sell it at a salvage auction anyway. They do it all the time, so they know how much they expect to get. They also know how much it will cost them in storage, hauling, and auction fees. If they can sell it back to you for around that, they will. Thus they settle their contractual obligation to you and liquidate their new asset in one swoop.I was going to ask this myself. Please don't consider this a hijack of your thread. First and foremost, I am glad to hear that you are ok.
My question, to those that posted, is this concept of "buying it back". How does that work? If the insurance company "totals" it and gives you a check, I would have assumed that somebody comes and gets the bike (if it not already in a tow yard, etc). Why would an insurer sell you back the item that they just paid you for? Sounds like some shady things going on there. Or, is the bike sold to a third party entity (not associated with the insurance company) and then it is purchased from them? Even still, how do you know who that third party is? Lastly, how much are we talking if you buy it back? Using one posters example of $3500, how much would one buy back the bike for?