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Update on my accident...

2710 Views 27 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  nikolasvel
Well, I am healing pretty well after I went down a week and a half ago (on 6/21 I think). Finally got the Wee out of the shed yesterday with an eye towards trying to ride it. Originally thought I had rashed just my Givi saddlebag and a mirror as well as breaking my clutch handle. Found a bunch more yesterday when I got the bike out and was doing my pre-ride checks. Rashed the front end, windscreen, upper fairing and lower fairing. Scratched tank. Scratched left side of my headlight. The handlebars are tweaked, the left side is lower.

So, I called my insurance and told them that I do need to file for damage to the motorcycle. They told me to take it to my local Suzuki dealer and get an estimate and they would send an adjuster over there to check it out with in the next week. I was stunned when I got the estimate from my dealer. The cost is $3261.61 to put the bike back like it was pre accident. Wow. That is a lot. And just for a 25 mph lowside. Now I am just waiting to hear from the insurance adjuster.

Wish me luck.
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Well, I am healing pretty well after I went down a week and a half ago (on 6/21 I think). Finally got the Wee out of the shed yesterday with an eye towards trying to ride it. Originally thought I had rashed just my Givi saddlebag and a mirror as well as breaking my clutch handle. Found a bunch more yesterday when I got the bike out and was doing my pre-ride checks. Rashed the front end, windscreen, upper fairing and lower fairing. Scratched tank. Scratched left side of my headlight. The handlebars are tweaked, the left side is lower.

So, I called my insurance and told them that I do need to file for damage to the motorcycle. They told me to take it to my local Suzuki dealer and get an estimate and they would send an adjuster over there to check it out with in the next week. I was stunned when I got the estimate from my dealer. The cost is $3261.61 to put the bike back like it was pre accident. Wow. That is a lot. And just for a 25 mph lowside. Now I am just waiting to hear from the insurance adjuster.

Wish me luck.
Doug, first it is only money and you're got out of that incident in a good shape.
Second, why do you worry at all about the amount? $3200 or $32K, it is the insurance paying not you. You just pay the co-pay.
So no need to stress out or even think about it, they will pay.
$3261 sounds like a total lost for a 2007 used v-strom (over 50% damage).

Take care.
 

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Your bike is a total loss. Expect a check from your ins company. Now, go out and start looking at all the other bikes out there, of course it needs to be a Strom though. Glad you are okay.

P.S. ~ Heavily damaged bikes that have been repaired rarely operate the way they should/used too. Just saying...
 

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Doug, like others have said, the most important thing is that you are OK and are recovering quickly.

The V-strom can be replaced or even potentially repaired. I am surprised by the amount of damage and the cost of the repair; based on your initial post, it did not seem that bad ;-)

If it happens to be a total loss, try to settle on a fair market value and make sure to add all accessories that you had on the bike, as well as your gear that was damaged in the accident.

And, looking at the bright side, if you get a nice check from the insurer, maybe you'll consider the DL-650A with ABS that you said you always wanted...

Either way, keep us updated and good luck! Glad to hear that you are almost back to normal :thumbup:
 

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Another option, perhaps?

Don't skip the opportunity to ride a 'rashed' strom, either.

Likely no structural damage, 'cept the bars. They are a bolt on replacement anyway.

You may be able to get the check from the insurance, buy the bike back with a salvaged title, replace what needs to be, give 'er a blacklab paint job, ie. black bedliner and ride!

Now, if you are a cleaner/polisher this obviously won't work for you...




Glad to hear that YOU are okay.











.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have no objection to riding a rashed Wee, I expect I will insist on keeping the bike even if the insurance company wants to total it. I will probably then drop the collision coverage on the bike as I won't be able to make a claim for it if I don't fix it. I expect that I will take the money and finish out my farkling and replacing things such as my mirrors and handlebars. Both of them were damaged in the crash. With a little touch up paint it will be one of those bikes that look great - from 50 feet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am surprised by the amount of damage and the cost of the repair; based on your initial post, it did not seem that bad ;-)
I didn't think it was that bad either. I replaced the clutch lever on it and started it in the shed. Even rode it a little but I was still hurting (my foot and ankle and my hand and wrist). Waited for them to get enough better and then took it out and did a close inspection day before yesterday. That is when I saw all the damage. None of it real bad, but somehow I managed to either rash or scratch almost everything on the front and the left side including the tank. It appears that motorcycles don't get sent to the body shop like cars. They replace any panels on a motorcycle that have damage. Go figure. I was astounded when I got my estimate.
 

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Doug, just went through the "totalling" experience with my daughter's car (Nashville drivers have run into her 5 times, this time totaling it; well this driver was from Columbia). I'd suggest going to all the valuation web sites to get a solid figure in your mind on what the bike was worth. Depending on the company they may try to lowball you. If you have a case for a higher value they can possibly be "persuaded" if you lay the facts in front of them.

They should sell the bike back to you at a nominal cost. Sounds like it can be put back on the road. Worst case, you could part it out and make money on it. I wouldn't doubt that someone on this website might want it if you decided to turn it quicker.

Good luck. Dealing with insurance is a hassle that will run its course.
 

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I didn't think it was that bad either. I replaced the clutch lever on it and started it in the shed. Even rode it a little but I was still hurting (my foot and ankle and my hand and wrist). Waited for them to get enough better and then took it out and did a close inspection day before yesterday. That is when I saw all the damage. None of it real bad, but somehow I managed to either rash or scratch almost everything on the front and the left side including the tank. It appears that motorcycles don't get sent to the body shop like cars. They replace any panels on a motorcycle that have damage. Go figure. I was astounded when I got my estimate.
It's always amazing what plastic and metal rashes cost to repair.

I'am with you. If they total it, buy back the salvage out of the check and see what it would cost you to do most of the repairs. My 2005 FJR was in an accident. Insurance company wanted to total based on scratched plastic, a rear wheel (rim bent) and new handlebars and broken clutch lever. Oh and one damaged auxiliary light. I can't remember the exact total amount but it was ridiculous in the neighborhood of $5,500. There was no structural damage or concerns.

I took off all the plastic/fiberglass myself. About a 45 minute job as I had never removed all the plasic before. Took it to an independent boat body and fiberglass repair guy here locally. He repaired all the scratched and cracked and rashed fiberglass and repainted all the pieces in the original Galaxy Blue. Total bill to repair and repaint all the fiberglass/plastic was under $500. Clutch lever was $18 and new ABS wheel was around $300. Picked up handlebars at junk yard for about $35. My complete cost for everything was just at about $800. I did NOT put on new emblems because they wanted way too much money for simple Yamaha emblems; besides I know which bike I am riding at the time.:mrgreen:

Original Equipment fiberglass and sheet metal is ridiculously expensive when you can get it repaired for 20% of new at a local shop. If they total and it is not structurally damaged and thus safe to ride ... I'm with you. Keep it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's always amazing what plastic and metal rashes cost to repair.

I'am with you. If they total it, buy back the salvage out of the check and see what it would cost you to do most of the repairs. My 2005 FJR was in an accident. Insurance company wanted to total based on scratched plastic, a rear wheel (rim bent) and new handlebars and broken clutch lever. Oh and one damaged auxiliary light. I can't remember the exact total amount but it was ridiculous in the neighborhood of $5,500. There was no structural damage or concerns.

I took off all the plastic/fiberglass myself. About a 45 minute job as I had never removed all the plasic before. Took it to an independent boat body and fiberglass repair guy here locally. He repaired all the scratched and cracked and rashed fiberglass and repainted all the pieces in the original Galaxy Blue. Total bill to repair and repaint all the fiberglass/plastic was under $500. Clutch lever was $18 and new ABS wheel was around $300. Picked up handlebars at junk yard for about $35. My complete cost for everything was just at about $800. I did NOT put on new emblems because they wanted way too much money for simple Yamaha emblems; besides I know which bike I am riding at the time.:mrgreen:

Original Equipment fiberglass and sheet metal is ridiculously expensive when you can get it repaired for 20% of new at a local shop. If they total and it is not structurally damaged and thus safe to ride ... I'm with you. Keep it.
Local Suzuki dealer says no hidden damage that they could find (I pretty much already knew that), it is all cosmetic damage except the handlebars. The bike is actually ridable now. I rode it over to the dealers. I do want to keep this bike.
 

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Regardless, of what your decision is the important thing is that you are feeling better and able to riding again. When all is said and done, if you have your health (and family) you have everything.

Good luck!!!!! ... hope they total the bike and then you repair it. Assuming you are with a major insurance company AND your State allows you can then go for a rebuilt title and still be able to insure your Scoot for comp and collision ... if you want to and deem it worthwhile.
 

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I had a recent claim that I thought might total it...in Virginia they take the retail value and add the retail values of all the upgrades (i.e. farkles) to calculate the value. So I got a check for $3500 for a bike I only paid $3000 for a year before. Biggest expense was the bent forks I replaced with salvage tubes at $200 plus the new seals, springs, and RT emulators. Next most expensive...$180 for a NEW side panel (decal already installed)!

Most everything else was polish or touch up paint or things I was going to change anyway (new Buell signal lights)! They paid for new passenger footpeg brackets because it was scratched...fixed with surplus black paint in my garage. Ended up with most everything I wanted to get installed on the Strom and it only cost me my time to do the repairs.

I'm more concerned about functionality than shiny paint so it work out well for me...part of me wanted it totaled so I could start over with ABS, but it would have cost me a lot more money in the end!
 

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Glad the healing process is continuing for you. It's always slower than any of us would like.

I was not given the opportunity to buy back my wife's totaled bike. I wasn't interested and didn't ask for it, but they never brought it up either.
 

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Glad the healing process is continuing for you. It's always slower than any of us would like.

I was not given the opportunity to buy back my wife's totaled bike. I wasn't interested and didn't ask for it, but they never brought it up either.
I was going to ask this myself. Please don't consider this a hijack of your thread. First and foremost, I am glad to hear that you are ok.

My question, to those that posted, is this concept of "buying it back". How does that work? If the insurance company "totals" it and gives you a check, I would have assumed that somebody comes and gets the bike (if it not already in a tow yard, etc). Why would an insurer sell you back the item that they just paid you for? Sounds like some shady things going on there. Or, is the bike sold to a third party entity (not associated with the insurance company) and then it is purchased from them? Even still, how do you know who that third party is? Lastly, how much are we talking if you buy it back? Using one posters example of $3500, how much would one buy back the bike for?
 

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I was going to ask this myself. Please don't consider this a hijack of your thread. First and foremost, I am glad to hear that you are ok.

My question, to those that posted, is this concept of "buying it back". How does that work? If the insurance company "totals" it and gives you a check, I would have assumed that somebody comes and gets the bike (if it not already in a tow yard, etc). Why would an insurer sell you back the item that they just paid you for? Sounds like some shady things going on there. Or, is the bike sold to a third party entity (not associated with the insurance company) and then it is purchased from them? Even still, how do you know who that third party is? Lastly, how much are we talking if you buy it back? Using one posters example of $3500, how much would one buy back the bike for?
They are going to sell it at a salvage auction anyway. They do it all the time, so they know how much they expect to get. They also know how much it will cost them in storage, hauling, and auction fees. If they can sell it back to you for around that, they will. Thus they settle their contractual obligation to you and liquidate their new asset in one swoop.

Jurisdictions are different, but most involve the insurance doing paperwork with the DMV to make it a "salvage" title then some sort of inspection to get it road legal again. Some states even clear the salvage from the title once its been inspected. Sometimes, it not even street legal stuff that totals it (i.e. plastics) and it is easy to do (i.e.the ins. isn't require to declare it "salvage").

My agent took pictures and told my they didn't care what I fixed, they just wouldn't pay for the same, unrepaired part twice. If I fixed it and it was damaged again, they would cover it, but the scratches had better be different.
 
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