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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Everyone

I bought my 2018 DL1000XA on Aug 19th and I have put 3700 miles on it and love the heck out of it.

Here’s a list of the accessories I've purchased for it.
Holeshot 17” polished slip-on
National Cycle sport windscreen
Factory Aprilia Touno mirrors
Adventure Tech footpeg lowering brackets
Givi rear hugger
Aftermarket aluminum rear brake master cylinder reservoir
Modified / shorter bar end weights off of an FJR1300

Here’s a list of stuff I’ve recently ordered
Holeshot Performance super tune kit, K&N air filter, exhaust servo eliminator
Arrow race collector (header)
Sargent Seat
Cox Radiator guard

Here’s a list of some of the mods I have done to the bike
Swapped the factory spoked rims for a like new set of the factory black cast rims
Smoothed and polished the brake and shift levers
Removed the spacer from the license plate light
Custom license plate mount
Custom rack mount for my Pelican top case
Powder coated the foot pegs and rear master cylinder cover semi-gloss black
Custom aluminum mounting bracket for the rear brake master cylinder reservoir

I found a place in Oregon that has the side case set and the mounting bracket kit for $704.18 shipped which was the cheapest I found, so I’ll be ordering them soon.

I also plan to paint the aluminum inserts on the lower cowling and the aluminum covers on the hard bags black. I also plan on stripping the black paint off of the rims this winter up to the step on the center of the rims, then hand sanding them smooth and polishing them which I have done on several other bikes I've owned, and it looks awesome with the black centers. :wink2:

These are pics from some rides I've made up here in northern NV.





 

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Looks awesome. It will be interesting to see how much performance you pick up now that they've got the ecu where it should have been all along. Any suspension mods planned ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Looks awesome. It will be interesting to see how much performance you pick up now that they've got the ecu where it should have been all along. Any suspension mods planned ?

Thanks.

I'm very good friends and a business associate with Dale Walker of Holeshot performance, and I live 2 miles from him here in Yerington NV, and with his slip-on, super tune kit, Arrow header, and airbox mod, up here at 4400 ft elevation he got 94 RWHP and 72 ft. lbs of torque on his in-house dyno.

Right now I don't have any plans for the suspension as I'm pretty happy with it right now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=256&v=hs9cZVTdUVY

This section of Alt Hwy 95 where this video was shot is about 8 miles west of my house, and on this same stretch of road, I had Dales personal Suzuki Bandit 1250 that was in Cycle World magazine up to 160 MPH.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=QxzPU6I3qF4

:smile2:
 

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94 RWHP.....isn't stock "claimed" around 98? :confused: I love how these engines sound with a proper race can, but any gains are minimal at best, looks like you gained 1 hp. Bike looks amazing by the way......

"Suzuki says the new DL1000 makes 99.2 horsepower at 8,000 rpm and 74.5 lb-ft of torque at 4,000 rpm at the crank, figures that are nearly identical to the 2014-2016 model (due to the production timing quirk, there was no 2017 model). In our last test of the 2014 Suzuki V-Strom 1000 ABS (a comparison with the Kawasaki Versys 1000 LT and Yamaha FZ-09), on Jett Tuning’s dyno it made 93.8 horsepower at 8,300 rpm and 68.6 lb-ft of torque at 4,000 rpm, sent to the rear wheel via chain final drive. Horsepower climbs smoothly and steadily until about 7,000 rpm, where it begins to taper off. The torque curve is mostly flat, with more than 60 lb-ft available between 3,200 and 8,100 rpm. What those numbers mean in the real world is a meaty midrange that helps the V-Strom 1000 launch out of corners, make quick passes and pull strongly even when fully loaded, and a solid yet sensible top-end. Standard traction control (with two levels of intervention, or it can be turned off) keeps rear wheel spin under control, and an assist-and-slipper clutch makes shifting the 6-speed transmission effortless."
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
94 RWHP.....isn't stock around 98? :confused:
98 hp is at the crank, not at the rear wheel, big difference, as manufacturers always list hp ratings at the crank which does not take into effect the frictional and mechanical losses from the trans and the final drive so that the hp rating looks better than it actually is, and car manufacturers do the same thing.
 

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98 hp is at the crank, not at the rear wheel, big difference, as manufacturers always list hp ratings at the crank which does not take into effect the frictional and mechanical losses from the trans and the final drive so that the hp rating looks better than it actually is, and car manufacturers do the same thing.
if you keep reading it says 93.8hp at the wheel.

The difference may have to do with elevation though, as well as the actual dyno. Do you know what Dale got stock?
 

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Bike looks awesome blacked-out. How did you remove the graphics that are located on the plastics that surround the tank? Were they just stickers that can be peeled off? And similarly for the black patches on the side of the beak?
BTW, I think the one remaining spot of silver on the engine protector/cowl looks great, I think it balances the silver of the beak. Great looking bike. I'm in the market for a 2018 1000 and might borrow some of your ideas if you don't mind!
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Bike looks awesome blacked-out. How did you remove the graphics that are located on the plastics that surround the tank? Were they just stickers that can be peeled off? And similarly for the black patches on the side of the beak?
BTW, I think the one remaining spot of silver on the engine protector/cowl looks great, I think it balances the silver of the beak. Great looking bike. I'm in the market for a 2018 1000 and might borrow some of your ideas if you don't mind!
Cheers
Thanks

All of the graphics I removed came off easily after heating them up with a hairdryer. The next thing that I'm going to do here shortly is, strip the paint off the rims up to the radius on the center of the rim, then hand sanding the area smooth and polishing them leaving the center black, I've done this to two other bikes and it looks awesome.

It has typically taken me a full day per wheel to strip the black paint off and sand and polish the edges, which the following grits, 240, 320,400,600,800,1000, 1200 and 1500, then they come up to color very easily using Mothers aluminum polish on an old sock.\

I also got the Arrow header installed along with the Holeshot Performance Super Tune kit and the increase in performance is great, and the exhaust note is awesome.

Here's what the rims on my 2013 FJR that I sold this year looked like



Here's what the rims on my custom naked 2007 Suzuki Bandit 1250S that I still have look like, which started out all black and after several different stages ended up with the center powder coated a really nice silver metallic with polished edges. The V-Strom rims may end up the same way
 

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The same dyno on a different day will give the same bike a different result just due to temperature and humidity differences. Therefore, comparing two different dynos in different parts of the world is completely nonsensical, as you end up in way different elevation, temperature, humidity, not to mention pump gas quality. The real comparison is the before and after on the same bike and the same dyno, which leads to the OP to the correct conclusion that his mods resulted in a very nice gain in power.

How much does this whole spiel cost to replicate?
 

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That is a great looking bike & I never thought I would say that about a Strom.

I fitted a PCFC to my 2014 and had a custom tune done on a dyno.

The before numbers are with the PCFC map #2 & a Scorpion slip on muffler, (I don't have the stock numbers) the new numbers are what the tuner got me.

RWHP 94.61 @ 8.05 rpm
New 98.33 @ 8.32 rpm

Torque 69.95 @ 6.51 rpm
New 73.90 @ 3.77 rpm

ft-lbs 29.94 @ 2200 rpm
New 49.45 @ 2200 rpm

I was a little disappointed with the PCFC straight out of the box but you can see by the new numbers it was worth the effort of getting the custom tune, it has put the torque where I need it.
 

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Thanks for the tips for removing the stickers. I have a short list of two colourways that I would modify that way: the standard model in yellow (I think removing the stickers from the tank-surround plastics and the yellow blaze from the beak and forks will tidy up the front end and let the black contrast of those plastics work better magic against the yellow tank); and the X model in white (same as above).
BTW the polished rims do look great. Cheers!
 

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Thanks for the tips for removing the stickers. I have a short list of two colourways that I would modify that way: the standard model in yellow (I think removing the stickers from the tank-surround plastics and the yellow blaze from the beak and forks will tidy up the front end and let the black contrast of those plastics work better magic against the yellow tank); and the X model in white (same as above).
BTW the polished rims do look great. Cheers!
Crappy photoshop, but here's a quick work-up of how I'd like to get my V3 looking (standard version model, minus a few stickers, and Yoshi carbon slip-on):
 

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