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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. I recently purchased a 2006 DL650 with approximately 5,000 miles on it. Prior to the V-Strom I had been riding a 2002 SV650s. I have a couple of questions I was hoping someone could help me with.

First, I have noticed that when holding a constant throttle around 4,000 RPMs it feels a bit jerky, almost as if I was letting on and getting off the throttle. Can someone please help me with what might be causing this? It seems especially noticeable in the lower gears (1st, 2nd, and 3rd). The bike starts great, idles right around 1,500, and runs fine other than that? I have also checked and adjusted the chain so I don't think that is the issue?

Second, is it normal to hear a buzz when riding/idling almost similar to what you hear standing near high powered electric lines? It's not very noticeable but since I just recently purchased I have been on the lookout for any potential problems I might need to address. Thanks for any responses!
 

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There are all kinds of noise questions by new owners especially. These bikes make noise. A noise hardly ever means a problem. Your throttle position sensor may be changing positions at 4000rpm. It seems to work best at about 2500rpm on 650s and 1800rpm on 1000s. It's a fiddly adjustment.

FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes
Checking TPS question
 

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There are all kinds of noise questions by new owners especially. These bikes make noise. A noise hardly ever means a problem. Your throttle position sensor may be changing positions at 4000rpm. It seems to work best at about 2500rpm on 650s and 1800rpm on 1000s. It's a fiddly adjustment.

FAQ: Dealer Mode & FI Error Codes
Checking TPS question
(Does an 06 have a TPS? I honestly don't know.)

I have noticed since day one there is a minor bit of roughness at the rpm and have seen it in other DL650's I have ridden (although if memory serves I thought it was closer to 4500 rpm.). At worst it should be a very minor issue and not nearly as dramaitc as the OP posted. Throttle syncing seems to help this a bit

..Tom
 

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All FI Suzukis have a TPS. It's only a guess but it's a possibility.
 

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>>First, I have noticed that when holding a constant throttle around 4,000 >>RPMs it feels a bit jerky, almost as if I was letting on and getting off the >>throttle.

I've been meaning to ask the same question...except on my bike it happens in the 3k-4k RPM range in 1st gear. Otherwise the bike runs smooth.

I was thinking maybe I needed to balance the throttle bodies?

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When I bought the bike in November it had only 5,000 miles on it. I didn't receive any service records so I don't know what has been performed in the past.

I was thinking about taking the bike in for a full tune and service to get a baseline from which I can start to maintain it myself. Do you think this is a good idea or worth the money and could it help the issue?

The tune and service include the adjust and sync of the throttle bodies but not the TPS.

Is the TPS adjust something I can do and are there any special tools or equipment needed?

Thanks....Jason
 

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A TPS adjustment requires a Torx T2.5 security bit to adjust the screw and a paper clip or short wire to put the bike in dealer mode.
 

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You're lucky to have an '06 on which throttle body synching is cheap and easy. That's what your mid-range surging symptom sounds like to me, although my Wee never got that bad so I'm only speaking from experiences with carbureted bikes.

Can't hurt to check it with a homemade manometer, in any case.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So is the consensus a throttle body adjust/sync or a throttle position adjust? Does the throttle body sync get more difficult and expensive post 2006? Thanks for all the input. It's appreciated!
 

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Both should be done. It's harder to do a TBS on on 2007 or later Wee but it's also less important.
 

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I have K7, purchased Feb 10 with 5k miles. Noticed same prob. Dlr advises using a pgm in his laptop to fiddle with the TPS adjustment, basically to get to be less sensitive/reactive. Another rider, SV-650, advised waiting at least 1 min with ignition on before starting engine. This wait, "stabilizes" the TPS and the system as the throttle grip is not moved. This will work fairly well. If I am going to ride around town, and I am sort fed up with the jerky operation, I do it. For freeway riding I don't do it. DLR would charge about $150.00 to use the laptop and it requires a number of test rides. I have not liked this so much that I have installed a headlight cut out switch, as running the headlights is the main battery draining problem with this technique: 2 min wait with switch on is more effective than 1 min. The K7 is my 3rd bike and it's a keeper.:yesnod:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks WildBill! I tried you technique this morning and it seems to have actually helped on my ride in to work! Is this an indication of something that needs to be addressed on the bike or just some weird quirk? Whatever the case, thanks for the advice. I can see how battery drain will be an issue however. Was it very difficult to install a headlight cutout switch?
 

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Adjusting the TPS to raise the bar at about 2500rpm instead of 4000 will do the trick if the TPS is in good shape.
 
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