StromTrooper banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Recently I rebuilt my front calipers and wired in a USB on my 04 650. When running a wire to the battery it was necessary to lift my tank about an inch in the rear, than secured it back down. When I got everything put back together, and hit the start button wow. the motor instantly revved to the limit before I hit the kill switch. The USB Hot is wired into the heated grips, the Ground to the battery. I pulled the tank, and have looked for anything that may have been knocked off. The throttle operates smoothly. All linkage, and cables operate smoothly. But still, I better have my finger on the kill switch when I hit the start button because it goes instantly to red line. It ran fine before. No sputtering or hard starting. Ran great. I'm at a loss. My mechanical ability's are kind of basic. as I mentioned, rebuilding brakes, new bearings/seals, that sort of stuff. Diagnosing this is a bit beyond me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,131 Posts
The USB Hot is wired into the heated grips, the Ground to the battery.
, is the USB wired to the heated grip connector? Did you run any wiring near the throttle bodies or was the airbox removed? Have you tried feeling if any play on the accelerator grip? It could be that something is causing the throttle body accelerator to stay open. Raise the fuel tank and start the bike to see if it makes any difference. If no improvement, can you see something that may be binding the accelerator cam on the throttle body?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,506 Posts
The throttle outer cable could unseated at the top or bottom, that lenghtens the outer cable so it shortens the inner cable, that pulls the throttle open.

Would be worth a look.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Roscoedog64

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
, is the USB wired to the heated grip connector? Did you run any wiring near the throttle bodies or was the airbox removed? Have you tried feeling if any play on the accelerator grip? It could be that something is causing the throttle body accelerator to stay open. Raise the fuel tank and start the bike to see if it makes any difference. If no improvement, can you see something that may be binding the accelerator cam on the throttle body?
I hooked into the hot lead in the grip harness. The tank and air box are off now to try and trace the problem. Throttle is working smoothly. Linkage looks good. It starts revving up as soon as the starter button is pushed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,506 Posts
A motor needs air so you have a air leak or your throttle is open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
A motor needs air so you have a air leak or your throttle is open.
I just watched a video on the STVA. My secondary throttle butterflies are open. When I turn the key on they don’t move. There’s ware all the air is coming from. Now, why are they not moving?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
5,535 Posts
Look first where the human was last.
1. If the throttle cables are not being held under tension disconnect your USB plug. To get to my heated grips connector I had to remove the tank and the air box. Look to what you may have disturbed while working on the bike.

2. Why did you earth your accessory plug to the battery? You could have used this plug Suzuki 36852-06G00 - WIRE, HORN LEAD | Partzilla.com for the power and return from you heated grips connector.

I would leave suspicion of the TPS etc until after I was assured that your wiring is correct and that your throttle cables are not under tension.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Look first where the human was last.
1. If the throttle cables are not being held under tension disconnect your USB plug. To get to my heated grips connector I had to remove the tank and the air box. Look to what you may have disturbed while working on the bike.

2. Why did you earth your accessory plug to the battery? You could have used this plug Suzuki 36852-06G00 - WIRE, HORN LEAD | Partzilla.com for the power and return from you heated grips connector.

I would leave suspicion of the TPS etc until after I was assured that your wiring is correct and that your throttle cables are not under tension.
I have a bit of an update. Nothing seems to be interfering with linkage, throttle cables look, and operate fine. The secondary butterflies rotate smoothly with just my fingers on the warm drive nut. When I turn on the ignition they move slightly, but that’s all. I put in dealer mode and got a 13 and 21. Air box sensors because there unplugged. If I close the secondary’s manually and turn on the ignition they open back up and stay.?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,131 Posts
Are all the connectors in securely connected when you're testing the STV? If not you are perhaps chasing your tail in circles. On ignition turn on, the STVA should do it's prestart setup dance, then rest almost closed.Starting the bike should have no further action until the throttle is turned open. Something along the electrics is telling the ECU that the throttle is turned wide open, hence your words
If I close the secondary’s manually and turn on the ignition they open back up and stay
.
The STV action on a DL1000 is discussed in the thread but applies to the Wee, F1 error code and dealer diagnostic.... Info borrowed from reply #12 in the linked thread wrt the secondary butterfly,
It's not a choke. The Secondaries are meant to close a bit to improve low RPM performance.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
5,151 Posts
The throttle doesn't have to be full open to cause the problem described. A cable not properly seated in its reciever can cause the throttle to be partially open and that is enough to cause the engine to scream. You will still feel the throttle open and "close", but not close all the way.

It happened to me on a much older bike. See post #86 in this thread,

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Could the idle adjustment screw play a role? Accidentally turned? It is in the area where the elect. connections are made. That bike would have one. Just my 2 bits...
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top