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Two Stromtroopers to Mexico & Central America

13K views 62 replies 20 participants last post by  Brandnizzle74 
#1 ·

Pinkman and I are meeting in Laredo, Texas to begin our trip through Mexico and all 7 Central America countries. Pinkman is coming from Orlando and I'm on my way from Santa Barbara.

We will be getting new tires, oil & filters in Laredo on Tuesday and cross the border early Wednesday morning. We've both traveled through Mexico a fair amount but never into Central America.

I've got a SPOT. Here's the SPOT link: SPOT Shared Page

Here's the Spotwalla link: SpotWalla - Trip Viewer - Mexico/Central America

I'll try to post some pictures once we get to the better parts. Right now I'm riding through the southwest in a nasty heatwave. Kickstand up at twilight and down by noon or so. Pinkman is doing 650 mile/days to meet me in Laredo tomorrow.

Looking forward to the border crossings in Central America. (Not!)

Later,
Gary
 
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#29 ·
Things may be changing

And Then We Were Gone - Page 2 - ADVrider

Read post #30. I read this tonight and it really put a scare into me. I don't want thugs in trucks chasing me through Honduras. I'm 69, speak very little Spanish, and don't feel like being hasseled by a bunch of thugs whose values are so much different than mine. I may just have to come up with an alternate plan.

I don't mind riding alone and putting up with the BS at the borders. But I can't handle a truck loaded with thugs intent on intimidating me and taking my money. I may just ride around Guatemala for awhile and then cruise back through Mexico. All that talk about drug cartels in Mexico doesn't scare me a bit. But for riders just a few weeks ahead of me of having that sort of trouble at the same border I would be crossing makes me think twice.

Damn - I really wanted to make it all the way to Panama. I've been there several times before on ships and boats. I love the canal and wanted to see it one more time. And Costa Rica is a great place also.

I guess I'll ride around Guatemala for a few days, maybe spend some time at Lake Atitlan and then kill time in Mexico. Probably head for Mazatlan and take the ferry over to Baja. I love riding Baja.

I knew beforehand that Honduras was a little sketchy but I didn't think it was that prevalent.

Yuck,
Don Diego
 
#30 ·
So Here's The New Plan

Well, I guess I'm getting old. I've decided that crossing Honduras isn't my cup of tea. The possibility of getting mugged or worse seems to be higher than I am willing to accept. If Cisco was still with me it would be a no brainer. We would do it. He's huge and between the 2 of us we could watch the bikes and handle the border crossing duties. But when I heard about the couple a few weeks ahead of us having all their problems I thought long and hard and figured it's not a fun trip if I have to worry so much about my security.

ith the roosters next door and the church bells just a block away waking me at around 0530 this morning (Sunday) I jumped on the computer and did some research on where to go and stay in Guatemala. I was hoping for a nice beach hotel but the beaches are not very attractive here (they are in El Salvador and Mexico) and I couldn't find a good hotel that seemed attractive to me.

So next on my list was Lake Atitlan. This is a huge lake formed by the caldera of an ancient volcano. Here's what I found:

Hotel Paradise Inn, Panajachel, Guatemala

So that's the plan. Probably stay a day or two depending on how I like the place. Then I'll head south to CA2 and cross back into Mexico. I haven't looked at what route I'll take up Mexico but am thinking about heading for Mazatlan. I would catch the ferry there and cross over to La Paz, Baja California. I love Baja and it's a no brainer getting home from there as there is only 1 road going north.

There's a nice coffee house right next door to my hotel in Antigua that serves a buffet breakfast in the patio. Very nice. That's where I'm writing this note.

I have to admit I'm very disappointed in not going further south. Years ago I probably would have said Fug It and just kept going but I guess I'm getting a little soft in my "middle" age.

Adios,
Don Diego
 
#31 ·
More Antigua

Just got a message from Cisco. He's in Vera Cruz, just 300 miles from the border. He's an Iron Butt kind of a rider. Just keeps adding brake fluid and riding like a bat out of hell.

Took a bunch for pics this afternoon. They are all up on photobucket:

Pictures by kapenagary - Photobucket

Here's some:









Parking for motorcycles?



The obligiatory food shot



The Mayans







I'm heading for Lake Atitlan tomorrow. It's just a short ride through some beautiful country.

Adios,
Don Diego
 
#32 ·
Good to know Chico is ok. As well as the fact that you're enjoying yourself in spite of the absence of your riding partner. Some people - perhaps myself included - would have folded and headed back north rather than go on to explore unknown territory alone. That aside, deciding to not to tempt fate by traveling thru Honduras sounds a very wise move.

As usual, great photos. Looking forward to seeing Lake Atitlan.
 
#40 ·
It's good to know that people are reading my ride reports. I enjoying doing them but it's nice to know they are appreciated. I enjoy reading other's ride reports also.

Thanks again,
Gary AKA Don Diego
Don Diego... Por Favor... do not stop the ride reports... they are wonderful... and the pictures are great... I am very jealous :mrgreen: of you... People like you take us along with the reports... until we can do it ourselves.

Thanks again...
 
#34 ·
Panajachel

It was really good to get back in the saddle again. The ride was only 2 hours but it beautiful twisty roads the Guatemala highlands. I wish it was longer but I finally had to turn off on the rough road down to Lake Atitlan. Got some good views of the lake from a higher altitude.







There's Panajachel.



I couldn't find the hotel I had scoped out on the internet and found an even better one. Plus inside parking for the bike.







Here's some roaming around pics.









Guess what outboards ALL the boats have. Suzuki !!







Food shot.



I saw the afternoon thunderstorm coming across the lake and headed back to the hotel just ahead of the rain.

Going to tour the nature preserve tomorrow and try the zip line.

Adiós,
Don Diego
 
#38 ·
When I made the decision that Honduras was a no go for me I thought long and hard about El Salvador. I had mapped out hotels in San Salvador and San Miguel (a Comfort Inn no less). However, neither my copy of Lonely Planet for Central America or the internet gave me any good reasons for heading in that direction. And I wouldn't do it just to say I was there or to get a decal for my Jesse's. Plus I was, and still am, in love with the highlands of western Guatemala. So rather than hassle with 2 border crossings (into El Salvador and back into Guatemala) I decided to just enjoy Guatemala and spend more time in Mexico.
 
#36 ·
Excellent photos! Glad to hear you're staying safe while traveling alone. Also really glad to hear your riding buddy is doing well. Felt bad reading about his mechanical issues.

I enjoy reading riding reports and I'll be sure to return the favor once I start riding my Wee out of town.

Be safe and have fun!!
 
#41 ·
Zipping in Panajachel

Checked out other parts of the town today. The colors in the stalls are incredible.









I didn't know Local 5 was here in town.



The Nature Preserve had 6 or 7 zip lines. It was a kick flying over the jungle. But why was this sitting out right at the entrance?



Hey Pedro, pick me out some good gear.



And what are these crazy bridges for? I'll find out later.



We hike up the canyon and cross the creek numerous times on these bridges.



The jungle is great.





Monkeys (chummed up with bananas by the guide)



Zipping





Those earlier bridges. Believe me, those things are harder than they look. And the looked pretty damn hard.





Reward for zipping



Is this where Ken Kesey ended up. He must have changed the colors of his bus back to the original. When I say this bus and the rasta hippie walking around I immediately thought of Ken. Back in the 60's his bus was parked a block away from my union hall in San Francisco. Local 90, not local 5.



Heading back to Mexico tomorrow. Probably along the coast for awhile and then head up to Oaxaca to check that city out. And the back to the coast for awhile.

Probably head for Topolobampo and catch the ferry to La Paz. I'll just go with the flow.

Adiós,
Don Diego
 
#42 · (Edited)
As usual, great photos. Yesterday must have been a memorable experience, zipping around the tree tops. And the body board . . . nice touch! Ha!

Ya know, you're now officially qualified to lead a tour around central A, in my opinion. What a way to enjoy those countries! Btw I've decided to dive into beginning Spanish with the free online BBC language courses, inspired in part by your blogging. Mexico being as friendly as you say it is makes me really want to tour there.

Are you happy with the bike's tires relative to the roads you're on? Any equipment you wish you had that you didn't take? And conversely, anything you're carrying you wish you'd left home?

Hope you're having a great day!
 
#43 ·
thanks for following



It's good to know that people are following, although I must admit I do enjoy writing up these ride reports.

Learning Spanish is the best move you can make. I only wish I had paid more attention when I took it 52 years ago rather than staring at Mrs. Barbarini's tight sweaters.

I'm just barely getting by, and thankfully it's very helpful that you meet people down here who know some English, from just a few words to fluent. Today exiting Guatemala was fairly easily because basically you just hand them your passport and the papers you received when you entered the country and that's about it. Of course I tell them how beautiful their country is (and it truly is) and I think they are more apt to be helpful with the details.





Entering Mexico was an entirely different story. I am now officially entered into Mexico. My bike is not. Finding Immigration was not a problem. However I had to get a new visa even though the one I got just days ago was good for 180 days. However, they said even though it's good for 180 days it's only good for 1 entrance. OK, the form is simple and costs nothing.





But there is no Aduana at the border. I have to drive into Tapachula, about 1 hour away, and I will see the Aduana office on my left. Weeeeellllllllllllll, that doesn't go so well. I ride to Tapachula and don't see any Aduana. I ask 3 people where it is and get 3 different answers. People are very kind and don't want to say they can't help me. So I see a decent hotel and check in for the night. The desk clerk gives me directions for tomorrow. WRONG! He's directing to a street named Immigracion. Time to hit the pool and then the bar. That's where I'm at right now.

So my waiter, who spent some time in North Carolina and is now studying computer repairs here in Tapachula first gives me directions back to the Guat border. I explain further and then he gives me, I think, the right directions to the Aduana Office. So that's the first thing for tomorrow.

Leaving Panajachel was something else. The road out of town, the only one my map or GPS had was washed out last night by 4 huge boulders. Road closed, PERIOD. I meet a couple of guys while I was loading my bike and they told me about the road but that they were guiding a Guat family out of town. I asked to follow and they said OK. Man, I have never in my life ridden in such thick slippery mud in my life. I really thought I was going to lose it twice. I took about 1 1/2 hours to get back to the Pan Am highway 1. So I'm way behind schedule and then find thick fog and then rain. So by the time I hit the border I'm later than I had hoped for. I was hoping for Tonala today but Tapachula was the best I could do. No problemo. I'm retired. What's the hurry.

I'll try to answer your interests as best I can.

1. Mexico is very safe. Just get away from the borders as much as you can. The danger to tourists is way overblown. The people here, as in all places I have ever been (sea captain remember) are friendly and as helpful as they can be. A buenes dia can go a long way.

2. I am riding Metzler Tourances. The same brand I rode up to Prudhoe Bay and back. Completely satisfied.

3. I spent a fair abount of money setting the bike up for my comfort and for the kind of riding I am doing. Russell Day Long saddle (with back rest) may be the best money spent. I won't bore you with all the farkles but they are about what most people buy and I have no regrets with any of them other than I wish I didn't the high windshield from Cee Baily. The regular would have been fine. GPS is a re-furbished Garmin Streetpilot 7300. I can't think of anything I wish I didn't buy or anything I wish I had.

I don't want to jinks anything but I have to say the V-Strom is an incredibly dependable bike. Lube the chain everyother day or so and change oil at 4,000 or so and that's it.

Just check, 420 to Oaxaca. I think I'll break that into 2 days. Also Cisco AKA Pinkman is in the Florida panhandle. He'll be home tomorrow.

I better start finding where to head to tomorrow.

Adios,
Don Diego
 
#46 ·
Tough day but in tehauntepec

I'm cutting and pasting the email I sent to my family yesterday. For some reason I couldn't get on Stromtrooper. Will send Oaxaca report later.

> When I wake up in Tapachula it's raining. So I take my time doing my
> morning rituals hoping the rain will let up in a while. It doesn't. So out
> to the bike in the rain to get my rain gear. After putting on riding gear
> and then rain gear I feel like an astronaut ready for a space walk.
>
> Now I have to find the Aduana. I head to where I'm told it's at. No luck.
> I talk to about 8 people and get 8 different directions. So finally I say
> fug it. I'm leaving this place and heading north. Screw the permit. I
> figure only 2 things could happen. An extremely large fine at the US/Mexico
> border or I find an understanding Aduana official someplace in Mexico.
>
> Well, about 10 miles out of town I see a check point up ahead. Oh oh, it's
> a customs checkpoint. As luck would have it there's a 1 man tiny Banjercito
> office there. He is more than happy to issue my Temporary Vehicle Import
> Permit. In 30 minutes and running around to get a couple of copies (only 3
> pesos) I'm sticking the sticker on my windshield and I'm ready to ride. And
> better yet, the rain has stopped.
>

>

>
> In about 280 miles I go through about 9 checkpoints; 1 customs, 3
> immigration, 2 federal police, and 3 military. They are all very nice and
> usually just wave me through. I took my camera out at one of the military
> checkpoints. Bad idea. Immediately 2 guys with Ak-47's head towards
> me. They aren't smiling. They check my camera to see the last picture and
> then walk away. That's the last time I try that.
>
> Here's what he saw. A picture of how the gas stations keep rain out of
> their storage tanks.
>

>
> Beautiful riding for most of the way. When I get close to Salina Cruz the
> rain comes down so hard I can barely see. The big trucks coming the other
> way make such a splash that I just have to keep her straight and hope the
> road doesn't curve. And, like a fool, I'm doing about 65. As I get close
> to my destination the rain let's up and the road gets better.
>
> Didn't have a clue where a hotel was in Tehauntepec but stopped at the
> second one I see. It's fine. It has internet and that's all I need. Don't
> know about hot water yet. I'll find out in the morning. I do a wash in
> the sink of socks and shirts. Hope they dry by morning. They should as
> they are synthetic.
>

>
> I picked Tehuantepec for tonight for a couple of reasons. It makes Oaxaca
> close for tomorrow and I like the sound of the name. Plus, while at the
> maritime school we studied a local wind call a Tehauntepecer. It's a very
> strong offshore wind that blows out into the Gulf of Tehauntepec. When I
> was just a third or second mate on ships whose route went up or down the
> Mexican coast we used to hug the coast in this area if a tehauntepecer was
> blowing. The winds would be just as strong along the coast but the seas
> didn't have a chance to build up too much.
>
> Anyway, it was a beautiful but tough day today. That just makes the beer
> and dinner taste better.
>
> Adios,
> Gary
 
#47 ·
Oaxaca

When I got up this morning I immediately check the sky. It's overcast but not dark so no rain gear today, I thought. About 4 miles out of town the sky ahead is very dark so I pull over and put on my rain gear.

I pass on the new cuota to Oaxaca and take the free road. It's only 150 miles and the free roads go through the small villages and usually prettier country side. The rain starts to come down hard but it's OK. I slow down and turn up the tunes, a little blues guitar and how about some Led Zep?

After around 80 miles I leave the rain behind and the landscape goes from jungle to arid with tall cacti all around. Then it's back into jungle as I gain altitude.





I had search where to stay in Oaxaca and had 4 posadas in my GPS. I head for the first one. I park in the street outside and walk and guess what I see?



The owner/manager is a biker. He has 3 bikes and his Harley Road Glide is parked inside the hotel. I turn around and on the back of my rain gear is HARLEY DAVIDSON. I let him know I have a Road Glide also. He doesn't speak a word of English but we are immediate compadres. So my bike has a room mate for the next 2 nights, unlike it's owner.



Oaxaca is incredible. It's the best of both San Cristobal de las Casas and Antigua. I take a lot of pictures while walking around the town.

http://s1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff373/kapenagary/?start=all

Here's a few.











What's with these freaking Burger Kings?



The Zocalo



There's a great inside market that covers 2 blocks. It's a trip to walk though it and just observe everything.









On my way back I'm passing an outside café with a roof when the heavens open up. I immediately sit down, order a beer and tacos dorado de pollo while everyone else is scrambling around finding shelter.





The air is fresh and I head back to my room to send my messages and get ready for tonight.

This place rocks.

Adiós,
Don Diego
 
#49 ·
Day 2 in Oaxaca (wha-hock-a)

Headed out last night to taste the night life. Camera battery went dead after 1 pic.



So that was it for pictures. Too bad. Missed a pic of the lovely senorita I met at the Zocalo. I think she was just practicing her English. I could care less.

Went for a walk today to see more of the city. It really is a very beautiful place as long as you stay close to the central part of town. The barrios surrounding the Zocala and cathedral probably aren't any different from any other Mexican city.

More pics.









There seems to be a church every other block. Give um religion and they'll believe things will be better in their next life.







Going to check out the Zocalo again tonight. I think I'll head for Puerto Escondido tomorrow morning. From there I might try to find a beach bungalow a few miles north of Acapulco at a place call Pie de la Cuesta.

Bungalows * Maria Cristina*

I hope I can find it. A day or two there would be nice.

Adiós,
Don Diego
 
#50 ·
hola don diego-
don't rush your stay in puerto escondido. great seafood and it is the #3 surfing place in the world and very beautiful. and very cheap. i stayed there for $15 a nite. not a real pretty room, but i slept with my eyes closed.
thanks for keeping us deformed. enjoying your pictures.
saludos,
pako
 
#51 ·
Hi Pako,

$15 a night! Holy cow batman! It probably costs me more than that to stay at my own house.

This will be my third time to Puerto Escondido and I always stay for 2 nights at Beach Hotel Ines. It's right across the street from the beach. It's usually full of surfers and Europeans. I don't surf anymore at 69 and the undertow there is a bitch. But I always get my laundry done there a couple hotels down the road. This time I plan on finding a moto mechanic and get my oil and filter done. I hear there's a good mechanic near the bus station. The owner of Hotel Ines is either German or Swiss and speaks good English, as does his Mexican wife, and they are very helpful and don't mind motorcyclists.

So 2 days there, a day or 2 at Pie de la Cuesta, and by then I will probably be like a horse headed for the barn and pick up the pace. I may find a cuota or 2 but want to bypass the bigger cities.

By the way, have you been to Oaxaca? I really love the place. The architecture is beautiful (at least in the old historical central area). The zocalo was jumping tonight with a political demonstration at the cathedral with music. A group did Richie Valen's La Bamba. It doesn't get any better than that.



My parents used to bring me to Mexico back in the 40's and 50's and I've been coming here for years, usually Baja since that's close to where I live in southern California. Did Baja on a dirt bike in 1969 befor the paved road. That, and the international airport, ruined Cabo San Lucas but the rest is still great. You would think I could speak better Spanish than I do but my wife was fluent so that slowed me down a bit.

Gotta pack up tonight so that I can get an early start in the morning. Oaxaca must mean rain because that's what it seems to do most of the time hear. Although by guessing at what the TV newscasts are saying I guess it's heavier than usual. I think Salina Cruz is getting a lot of rain and so is Oaxaca. I expect I'll get my share tomorrow. If it's not too bad I should get some beautiful views going back over the mountains.
 
#54 ·
Puerto Escondido (again)

I'll try this one more time. I wrote my report up twice last night and lost internet connection both times.

The road out of Oaxaca yesterday, 175, was a real bitch for the first 50 miles or so. Because of the unusually heavy rains the state of Oaxaca has had lately the road consisted of dirt, mud, potholes, detours washboards and towns whose sole purpose seems to be to trap anyway trying to get through. I was really second guessing my decision to go this way.

But as I finally started climbing the mountains things got better. Not too much rain, very small villages which were easy to get through, and beautiful scenery. A lot of it reminded me of the Smokey Mountains where the clouds seem to be emitting from the mountains.





There were many places to turn to get a picture and the few there were was filled with deep mud. But I had to get a picture of this building. It just seemed to out of place.





The rain has done a lot of damage to all the roads.





It took me 8 hours to cover 200 miles with only 1 quick stop for gas. I'm hopeful of covering more miles from now on. I think I'll stay on the coast for awhile. Roads going over the mountains have been beaten up by the rain lately.

I'm checked in to the Hotel Ines and am getting my laundry done today. I found a bike shop and got my oil and filter changed. $58 and the mechanic was very good. He was careful and clean. He's the local Yamaha motorcycle mechanic but will work on what you bring. He's a moto cross and enduro rider.

Mario Huesca
phone 954-582 34 86
cell 044-954-103-5665

Heading for Pie de la Cuesta tomorrow morning.

Adios,
Don Diego
 
#58 ·
Pie de la Cuesta

(I wrote this up last night but didn't have internet connection)

I’m up fairly early getting ready to leave Puerto Escondido. My ride today is going to be around 270 miles to Pie de la Cuesta. Should be an easy day. I get out of town on highway 200 and everything is great. I’m making good time, I see all the topes before they see me.

Watch out for these guys (plus horses, burros, goats, chickens, dogs, etc.)






WRONG! Everything goes good until I get into the northern barrios of Acapulco. Damn – I’m on the same road as I was on 2 weeks ago. Construction zone about 400 yards long where they are putting in a raised highway, but the old highway is torn up and is nothing but mud and potholes for 400 yards. It’s where 4 lanes now diverge into 1 ½ lanes. I duck walk the whole length, fighting the traffic for my space. I love Mexico but there is a high percentage of drivers that should never get a driver’s license. It’s the hottest part of the day and I’m in full motorcycle gear. (rant on )There isn’t a single municipal or traffic police with their damn whistles to be found. No, they are at the stoplights waving you through when the light turns green. Hey, thanks guys. About a third of the traffic lights don’t even work. No cops there, only where there are good signals. (rant off)


I finally make it to the Pie de la Cuesta turn off but it’s still a traffic jam the whole way. Pie de la Cuesta is a narrow stretch of sand that runs for a few miles with the ocean on one side and a lagoon on the other. I look long and hard for a place to stay with no luck. I figure I’m just being too choosy or there is nothing here for a ****** like me (and believe me, I’m not very choosy). I decide to keep going, get back on highway 200 and hope for the best. I see a sign up ahead but still not appealing. But as I pass the tiny entrance I look down the path and whoa, maybe I’m in luck. I turn around and drive in. Lucky me. It’s a nice Mexican beach hotel that just happens to be dead. I park my bike and walk around shouting Hola! I find someone, it’s $40. No air, no internet, no one that speaks a word of English, but it’s right on the beach and has a great pool with 2 waterfalls. They turn them on for me. So what’s the first thing I do. No, no, I mean after downing a Pacifico. I go into the water. It’s a steep beach so there is a strong undertow. I’m not the swimmer I was in college so I head for the pool, ordering a Margarita at the same time.










Since I’m the only guest I tell them what I’ll want for dinner (ceviche de Cameron) and kick back at the pool with a drink or two as I sit under the waterfall and cool down. I’m trying to figure out where to head to tomorrow but not having much luck with distance and hotels. It’s beginning to look like I’ll just ride until and get tired and/or find a hotel at a suitable distance (250 – 350 miles).






I may stay on the coast for the rest of the way to Mazatlan or Topolobampo. There’s no rain forecast and the mountains are cooler but the roads have been beat to hell. I’m not quite, but almost at the point where the only thing I want to do is put a lot of miles behind me. The one thing I’m sure of is that I’m going to take the ferry from either Mazatlan or Topolobampo to La Paz. From there it’s only 1,000 miles of good road to the border. (Lars – can I stay a night at your place in San Diego?)

I guess that’s it for now. One shouldn’t drink and type.
Aloha,
Gary
 
#60 ·
I have been living vicariously through you this whole time, sounds great its to bad you didn't make it to Panama. but looks like your soldiering through it with a stiff upper lip. I hope to hear more and that you have a good time. It appears that the route you are taking is not going to take you through Redlands, Oh well, maybe I will make it up your way someday. Good Luck ride safe and write often we are all reading.

And if your ever in the neighborhood stop by.
 
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