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Discussion Starter #1
I have read other posts with similar issues, but mine is a little different from those as follows:

1. '05 DL1000 with 30,000 miles, will crank, but won't engage. This happened suddenly, never any problems before. All electrical seems to work. I can hear the fuel pump engage and checked all connections. Battery is about 6 months old and just put in new plugs today and replaced the fuel fuse. Unlike other posts, my chec light does not come on nor does the F1 reading appear. When it tries to crank, I do smell fuel like it's flooded.

2. Others have mentioned about their bike dying after coming off the highway, but mine does something different. I'll be rolling down the interstate about 70-80 mph when suddenly the tac drops from 4+ to 0 and the bike loses all power for about 2-3 seconds, then will power back up. Not too fun with a semi on your tail!

I'm an experienced rider, but not a mechanic. Any help from the experts here would be greatly appreciated, before I have to take it to the dealer.

Thanks!
 

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1. It does sound like flooding. Open the throttle when it cranks but doesn't catch to let more air in. It normally is a hot ambient air or heat from the engine or sun vaporizing fuel in the tank situation. It's unusual this time of year.

2. This sounds like an electrical situation with a connection opening up.
 

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Fuel fuse?! Where is that?!?! I can't find it on the schematic.
 

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It's not a fuse. A blown fuse won't allow a fuel pump to be heard and a fuel smell to come forth. The fuel fuse is #3 in the fuse box on the wiring diagram.
 

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What is sequence

A

You were tuning up plugs etc and then got cut off motor symptoms

B

You got symptoms and your 1st attempt at repair was new plugs.


This sounds like total ignition cut off NO SPARK. In either case a poor connector is where I would start to look. The inputs to the ECU espescially the crank position sensor that would fire the spark plugs.
 

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I2. Others have mentioned about their bike dying after coming off the highway, but mine does something different. I'll be rolling down the interstate about 70-80 mph when suddenly the tac drops from 4+ to 0 and the bike loses all power for about 2-3 seconds, then will power back up. Not too fun with a semi on your tail!
That is a MAJOR electrical failure. The tach going to zero means no power at all. The engine quitting, plus who knows what else ( headlights? ) is shutting down. I would think it has to be a problem with a battery terminal connection, or something immediately after the battery connection like the main electrical distribution block. I would not feel good about riding this bike till I found the source of this problem!
 

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I thought of the battery connections but they would prevent the starter from working. It isn't a minor connection to the instrument panel like the white plug or the large fairing connector because the engine cuts off at the same time the instrument panel dies. The bike will run fine without the connections to the instrument panel.
 

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#2---would an intermittently defective ignition switch cause that--shakes open, then shakes closed? Or cut-off switch? Or sidestand switch? ATW, do you know if the instrument backlighting quits at the same time?
 

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Bad ignition switch could cause the symptoms. Good you brought that up. In fact, the more I think about it the more I think that it could be the switch. MIGHT be possible to get it to act up by wiggling the key in the switch while running?
 

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I know how to get those symptoms any time I want...

Every once in a while I ride my wife's Honda VT-600. It's one o' them ol'-timey bikes with a carburetor and a fuel shutoff valve hanging off the tank. Since I'm used to my three FI bikes, I seldom remember to turn the fuel shutoff valve on the Shadow to "on". Down the road I go until the fuel in the carb bowl is used up and the engine shuts down. Usually I can get the valve turned on while still rolling and the engine will catch right up. I always feel stupid.

It sounds as though your fuel is shutting off completely -- either due to the in-tank pump or some blockage in the flow.
 

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It's electrical, not fuel. The tach drops to 0 even though the engine is turning. Even an immediate loss of fuel can't cause that.
 

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Odd that only the tach dropping to zero was mentioned. I'd think with a complete power loss, the speedometer would do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Guys, thanks for all the great advice. You should be charging me $80/hr. A couple quick answers to some of your comments/questions:

1. Greywolf - thanks for your post. Concerning the starting issue, the bike has always been garaged, so that should eliminate the heat/sun factor, plus it was the first crank of the day. By the way, it started great just the day before with no hint of any problem. One thing did occur that you might be interested in... before I put in the new plugs, I tried to crank it and heard a small pop near the front plug. When you mentioned connectors, what are you referring to?

2. RichW - thanks for your post. I'll check with my dealer on the crankcase sensor and as far as the sequence, it was "B", the symptoms began and tried to fix with plugs.

3. Realshelby - thanks for your post. When this first happened, the battery was also my first thought too and checked the terminals, but everything was fine. This first happened at night and all systems (lights, instrument panel) remained lit. That's how I could tell that the tac dropped to 0.

4. PTRider - thanks for your post. As above, the lights stayed on the whole time.

5. Dancer - thanks for your post. If the fuel supply was shut off, wouldn't the bike cough or sputter? It never does that... just tac and power drops to 0, even though the engine is still running and it's not like I have to re-start the bike. Then all power returns to normal and everything kicks back in.

As far as just getting the bike started, what connectors are we talking about? I've gone over everything I know, but might have missed something. One thing that I forgot to mention yesterday (as far as the tac drop issue), this only occurs when I'm doing about 70 mph. Around town, at normal speeds, never any problem... 70 mph seems to be the issue.

Once again guys, this was my first post and I really appreciate everyone's insights. Keep those great ideas coming. Want to avoid the dealer and dyno test if possible.
 

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If the lights stayed on I am less inclined to think it is the ignition switch. And less inclined to think it is a main wire connection to the battery/relay area.

Just thinking out loud, could this be an issue with the kill switch? Does anyone know if hitting the kill switch while the engine is running causes the tach to go to zero? If so, a possible wiring issue in the right side control area.
 

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The kill switch will throw a CHEC. Lights on and zero tach is very strange. Check the Yellow/Black and Brown/Black wires from the tach. The former goes to the fuel pump and the latter to the ECM.

Edit: Do check the Br/B wire. It looks like the Y/B is just the fuel level signal wire to the gauge readout.
 

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Greywolf what plug does the ignition trigger off of

He should pull clean reattach and protect

I assume tach pulses and ignition trigger is the same pulses

Also is it located anywhere near hot rear pipe and if worn through shorting to frame etc would probably
dropo the engine out
 

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I am no Vstrom pro. But this sounds like a fuel pump/supply issue. Especially after reading your last post about it happening at speed and not around town. As the motor requires more fuel it stalls and when it does the tach should go to zero. As the supply returns to spinning but not running motor it props starts again and will run. Its most likely a bad fuel pump or loose connection to the pump.


Or a dirty pick up in the tank.

I would pull the pump and inspect it for dirt and check its connections and grounds. Chances are you find your problem while pulling the tank. If the connections are dirty it could be that simple. Clean and grease the connections with Dielectric grease. The solution might be that simple.

If that is not it I would trace electrical from the coils back. But I am leaning more to fuel delivery.
 
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