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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, not sure if anyone covered this but I would like to gain a lot more visibility in the rear. The OEM turn signals and break lights are just not adequate enough for my liking to be seen well during day time.

Does anyone have any suggestions on increasing light intensity? I also know of plenty of cruiser bikes with a conversion of turn signals to work in conjunction with break light. Is there something like this for the Strom?

Any suggestion would be appreciated!

Wingman
 

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Hyper-Lites

Hyper-Lites will increase your rear brake/running light visibility tremendously. I may be a little prejudiced, since Hyper-Lite is my company, but I truly believe they are the best safety lights in they industry. I posted a photo of my DL1000 with the Hyper-Lite and the OEM brake light on. http://stromtrooper.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10023/S16 V-Stromlow.jpg

The difference in intensity is startling. If you check it out please note that the lights are really red, but are so intense that none of my cameras will show them anything but white. They brake lights also flash, and can be set up for wither 5 second flashing then solid or continuous flashing.

Since I own a V-Strom (which I consider the finest all around MC in the Universe) we created a model specific kit (pictured) that mounts on the license plate light housing. It includes step by step instructions with pictures.

For turn signals, I mounted a set of our 16 LED amber turn signal modules on the side reflectors next to the license plate. The 8 LED sets are nearly as effective, but I like my turn signals (especially the left) to really pop.

Two things I love most about our lights: 1. They are REALLY bright, but have never induced a case of road rage. I call it the Goldilocks syndrome... 2. They are bulletproof...they'll run under water with no problem.

I apologize for the commercial. I catch myself proselytising like a Baptist preacher at a funeral....
 
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I bought some low-voltage (12 volt) landscape lights at Lowe's that use 35w halogen floodlights (about $13 each). These are the same bulbs used in the very bright (and expensive) Motolights. Then, I cannibalized the fixtures for the lightbulbs and 2-pin sockets. If you take the stock signals apart and solder the new sockets onto the old pigtails, the halogen bulbs with bult in reflectors will just fit in the signal case and the lenses will shut nicely. This yielded front and rear turn signals that are CONSIDERABLY brighter than stock. In fact, they are almost painful to look directly into at night. They still look stock, but everyone comments on how bright they are, even in full sun. Since they draw the same wattage as the stock bulbs, I didn't have to mess with anything to get them to flash at the correct speed.
 

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Yep, Hyperlights are great, but don't stop there. You can install the Kisan tailBlazers too. I have two tailBlazer bulbs in my 'Strom AND and an LED auxiliary brake lighting device TOO. Lite Blazer is another product I've used with good results. It's a license plate bracket with three LED clusters built into it. The outer clusters run with your tail light and the inner cluster is brighter/flashing with your brake light.

Heck, there's all kinds of farkles out there to light up your backside.

I also have some stealth reflective material on the rear fender surfaces. This stuff looks like a black contact paper in daylight. Actually you don't even notice it in daylight. At night, holy guacamole, it reflects like crazy! It's a real 3M Scotchlite product so it works like a champ. I could literally save your ass.

I used to laugh at middle aged guys with reflective material on their bikes. Now I am one of those guys. At least I am alive and still riding!

Jeff
 
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Kisan signalMinder

I'm notoriously dim about cancelling my turn signals and wanted self-canceling turn signals on my '03 Strom, and liked the idea that the signalMinder would also transform my turn signals into running lights. BUT if you are going to install a signalMinder unit, note that THE FITMENT CHART ON MANY RETAILERS' SITES AND IN SOME CATALOGUES IS WRONG in suggesting an SM-3S, 2-prong model. For my DL1000 I found I needed an SM-3SV, which then needs to be spliced into 2 wires under the seat and is thus not as "plug and play" as other applications. That's because the Strom (my '03, anyhow) has a multipin flasher device that is both the light flasher and the kickstand sensor. You end up cutting the wire to this and splicing that to the SM-3SV, effectively bypassing the flasher circuit of the stock unit, which stays in place. I had to exchange my first purchase of an SM-3S and order the SV model, which is not in sufficient demand to be stocked in any of the local dealers I visited.

I don't have diagrams/parts lists for ALL the Stroms, but I suspect they're all the same; here's how to tell. Remove your seat, turn on the flashers and follow the ticky noise. If it's coming from a large module near the tank base, turn off the key and unplug this unit. If it has more than 2 prongs into it and says "Denso flasher/kickstand sensor" or something like that, you will need to do some wiring and will need the "SV" version of signalMinder. You will need to do some wiring anyhow if you want the running light option and brake light override, which means taking off the rack and any luggage mounts you've installed, so you can remove the rear fender and access the wiring. Plan on this process taking some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Lmundy,
How do you like the SignalMinder? I got too used to self canceling turn signals on my Gold Wing and would like to install a set on my WeeStrom. The only concern is that it looks like Kisan's unit is time sensetive only. The one on the Wing uses distance and bank angle to figure out when it needs to turn itself off.

Wingman
 
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Yes, time-sensitive only - dip-switch settable for 8, 16, or 24 seconds, unless you connect a supplied lead to the brake light wire, which suspends the counter while the brake is applied (sitting at an intersection, for example). What I really like is the running light option, which turns your turn signals into low-level running lights for a little more visibility.

I was used to a Yamaha system which I understand is both time and distance sensitive - the signalMinder doesn't have any way to get external input for distance or lean, but I'm hoping the fact it's relatively simple will mean it's also reliable. I've had all the electrical gremlins I can stand recently . . .
 
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