[rconti]

My fab work sucks and my tools are limited. Didn't want to shell out $$$$ for the PWD Stebel mount so I went twistedthrottle. Took ages (a month or 6 weeks?) to get the bracket. Not much to it. Tried to slap it on this morning (already ran the wiring for the most part).

Can barely fit my hands down in the space behind the fairings with the fairings on.. don't want to remove 'em again (crash bars in the way), and there's no way to verify the fairings will go on once the horn is mounted, so I figure it's best to do it in place. Hell, barely even a way to get the horn down in there.

Couldn't find a position where the horn wouldn't be hit by the forks, or rattle against the fairing. God knows, even if I found the right position, how I'd then remove the horn and keep the bracket in the same place to tighten down. Almost certainly by the time I tightened the bracket, I'd find that it had moved enough that now the horn won't fit without interfering with other things.

Oh well, probably wasn't a good idea to install something new the day before my trip anyway. *shrug* I'd just be surprised if anyone actually managed to fit the horn in that space, hanging from the left side of the fairing support bracket as in the directions.

 

[greywolf]

I can't imagine trying to do a horn mount there without taking off the cowling. Plenty of people have success doing the job but the cowling really needs to come off.

 

[chicago]

I mounted an auto parts horn in the same place with a P bracket as others here have done. What Greywolf says, I can't imagine trying to work in that space with the fairing in place. I have the motech crash bars and with a little care and effort can remove the fairing with them in place.

 

[Voluhzia-Strom]

I installed the Stebel horn behind radiator on my Vee (in place of OEM farty) without removing anything, but swinging radiator. It had been there for not even two years, I find myself I never use horn. So I stuck the farty back...

 

[banditrider]

It's a little fiddly even with the plastic off. Ideally you need a least three hands with kiddies fingers...

If you get it in the right position then there is no issue with the plastic getting fouled. I lucked out and got it first go.

Interesting about the delivery issues - I'm on the other side of the world and got it in about 10 days (or less) from memory.

 

[jokermtb]

Looks like one could make the same thing for about $1.34 with one trip to Home Depot..........

 

[greywolf]

Looks like one could make the same thing for about $1.34 with one trip to Home Depot..........

I spent closer to $5, but used a deluxe bronze pipe grounding clamp instead of a U-bolt.

 

[banditrider]

Looks like one could make the same thing for about $1.34 with one trip to Home Depot..........

Yep, if one had the slightest engineering skills....:headbang:

 

[Jimm]

The more you take the cowling pieces off the better (and faster) you get at it. There's gotta be a thread on here showing how to do that.

 

[greywolf]

The more you take the cowling pieces off the better (and faster) you get at it. There's gotta be a thread on here showing how to do that.

It's contained within Fuel Tank Removal How to, 650 & 1000

 

[rconti]

Looks like one could make the same thing for about $1.34 with one trip to Home Depot..........

Yup. But considering how it typically takes me 20 minutes just to find the right size nut I'm looking for, I wasn't thrilled about the idea of trying to find proper-sized metal bracket pieces and all the little odds-n-ends.. not to mention the requisite trips back when I realize I got the wrong size u-bolt, etc etc. I don't have a drill press either, not sure how I'd make the holes.

It was easier to tack $15 onto an order then to spend 3 hours trying to figure it out myself.

As for removing the fairings, yeah, it's only a minor PITA with the motech bars on, but having just put them back on a week ago, I didn't want to go there. Leaving for AK in a few hours now, been slammed at work and with trying to prep for the trip, extra time was not in the cards.

I'll take a crack at it next time I have the fairings off. Thanks guys.

- reid

 

[MikeB]

You know you can separate the Stebel into two pieces, the compressor and the horn part. It's easier to find places under the cowl to mount two smaller pieces. I attached each part to the cowl brace on either side, and connected by a length of vinyl tubing. No problems with the installation for several years now.

 

[mike884]

any chance anyone knows what the diameter is of those fairing supports? Just trying to cobble a bracket together here.

 

[PWD]

My fab work sucks and my tools are limited. Didn't want to shell out $$$$ for the PWD Stebel mount so I went twistedthrottle. Took ages (a month or 6 weeks?) to get the bracket. Not much to it. Tried to slap it on this morning (already ran the wiring for the most part).

Can barely fit my hands down in the space behind the fairings with the fairings on.. don't want to remove 'em again (crash bars in the way), and there's no way to verify the fairings will go on once the horn is mounted, so I figure it's best to do it in place. Hell, barely even a way to get the horn down in there.

Couldn't find a position where the horn wouldn't be hit by the forks, or rattle against the fairing. God knows, even if I found the right position, how I'd then remove the horn and keep the bracket in the same place to tighten down. Almost certainly by the time I tightened the bracket, I'd find that it had moved enough that now the horn won't fit without interfering with other things.

Oh well, probably wasn't a good idea to install something new the day before my trip anyway. *shrug* I'd just be surprised if anyone actually managed to fit the horn in that space, hanging from the left side of the fairing support bracket as in the directions.

Yes, my bracket is about $12 more than theirs, but here are some key differences:

(1) It includes an air intake assembly that will prevent your horn from sucking in water and dirt that can lead to an early horn death.

(2) It is MUCH easier to install. That's one reason we discontinued our old mount that went under the fairing. I spent way too much time with emails and phone calls walking people through the fairing removal process and explaining how the plastic rivets work!

(3) The sound projects better than if mounted under the fairing.

(4) I can usually ship them out the same day and you get them in 2-3 days.

(5) It works.

Edit: (6) Oh, and I forgot to mention the custom machined 2-Way locking bolt that I use instead of that cheesy square-head bolt that comes with the horn.

 

[Supersalad]

That terrible Twisted Throttle Stebel mounting kit

I can attest to how terrible the U-bolt setup from TwistedThrottle is.

• The ubolt has no teeth, unlike the pipe mounts (grounding clamps) that Greywolf speaks of. Scared to think it may loosen and move in the way of the forks during a ride!
• If it did have teeth I wouldn't buy it anyway because it would break the paint coat on the fairing stay, leading to rust.
• The included plate that caps the U-bolt bends when you tighten the u-bolt, just look at the pics. It's designed this way?
• I couldn't get it to keep from shifting during installation or after installing it, having it interfere with the forks
• It puts the horn output directly into the inside wall of the left fairing panel, not very good for projection.

So it looks like I'll end up spending 2x the money buying the PWD that I should have bought in the first place. :hurray:

Now after badmouthing the TT mount, does anyone want to take it off my hands? I'll gladly give it away if someone pays the shipping from Quebec, Canada. :yesnod:

 

[Pappy]

Horn Mount

I just used the bracket from Twisted Throttle and took my time and didn't have to remove anything. It was more a pain in the butt to hook up the wires to the horn wiring harness.

 

[jokermtb]

+1 on the PWD mount kit..........easy as could be!

 

[water warrior]

The PWD is a handy dandy item. No I don't have one. But I did use his mounting idea and a piece of flat bracket material from the hardware store to make my own. Thanks to Pat for the idea and the fun of building my own. If you don't need the horn out of sight this is a great way to do things.

 

[Woggy64]

Ok, after mounting the Stebel on various bikes over the years, I'm taking what I see here and just ordered the complete Stebel package from PWD for my 2012.

I need my stebel back!

 

[mark444]

Others, as well as myself, have mounted their Stebil down lower on the left side of the engine.........perform a Search to see pics?? There are Pros & Cons for this location.

Pros: easier to mount the horn......no cowling plastic need come off (except for running the wires, if you wish), horn is more exposed so theoretically it should be louder.......and the weight of the horn is down lower on the frame.

Cons: horn is exposed......to the elements (but hopefully should be OK as long as the "spout" is pointed down and the intake is where water cannot get to the guts), some don't like the looks "out in the open" and want it hidden..........not sure if engine heat could be a factor or not?????

The Eastern Beaver Stebil Horn Wiring Kit makes life easier.............

Not saying one location is better than another, just throwing options out there.