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Just finished chaning the oil and chain on the strom.
But then it hit me... I have had some trouble getting it in to N from 1st or 2nd gear. Do I also have to change the transmission oil on the bike, or is it a all in one system?
I have ridden the it for 40.000k now and never even tought of it... LOL... Have I missed something here? :???:
 

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My first thought was 40,000 Km and you don't know this...must be a troll. But just in case, it is all one sump for engine, transmission and clutch. And if you use the wrong oil you could have clutch issues.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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You come from a harley don't you?
"Real" bikes have the transmission and the engine in the same casing; that means they share the same oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok, thanks. I did think it was all just one sump, but after the trasmission sucked this year i just thought it might just be two different oils.
And no, I Don't come from a harley, the strom is my first bike, I have a 4x4 with five different oils in it... =)
 

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See, I read "40000k" as 40 thousand THOUSAND. That would be record-setting.
 

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Welcome!

ok, thanks. I did think it was all just one sump, but after the trasmission sucked this year i just thought it might just be two different oils.
And no, I Don't come from a harley, the strom is my first bike, I have a 4x4 with five different oils in it... =)
This is a great place to learn all about your bike. You can search just about any question you have and there will be a wealth of information from these guys. Ignore the occasional troll.

Tom
 

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And no, I Don't come from a harley, the strom is my first bike, I have a 4x4 with five different oils in it... =)
Lemme guess, Polaris.
 

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Just finished chaning the oil and chain on the strom.
But then it hit me... I have had some trouble getting it in to N from 1st or 2nd gear. Do I also have to change the transmission oil on the bike, or is it a all in one system?
I have ridden the it for 40.000k now and never even tought of it... LOL... Have I missed something here? :???:
You may want to see that your clutch cable has been adjusted properly. If you changed oil and used car oil with friction modifiers in it you may have clutch/ shifting problems. Yes you have missed something. The purchase of a manual and reading of same. Motorcycles are much more dangerous when not maintained. If you changed the chain, did you also change the sprockets?
 

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"You come from a harley don't you?
"Real" bikes have the transmission and the engine in the same casing; that means they share the same oil"


I could use some of what you are drinking...or smoking.

Lets think about this for a second because HD may have a leg up here. In my Harley I can run 20w50 synthetic in the motor...an oil designed for the stresses and heat of this portion of the machine. Four quarts worth that gets changed every 5000 miles.

In the tranny.....with the technolgically "inferior" second case, I can and do use synthetic...75w90. A lube designed for the shearing action of the gears, and a much better choice here. One quart worth that gets changed less often.

In the primary chain case....with the even more technologically inferior third case I run a conventional non detergent oil designed for the wet plate clutch.

So it would appear to me that only having 1 case is not a step forward.
Honda figured this out and does it on their dirt bikes....and we all know what idiots Honda has in R&D.

The strom shifts much worse in the lower gear sets than my Road King. Wrap your head around that fact. And none of the oil ends up on the floor.

I sincerely apologize for discussing oil in the wrong place.

QUACK.....
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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My BMW R90S had a transmission separate from the engine. It was a real bike. Besides the advantages mentioned by Scott, being able to work on the transmission without taking the engine apart is a plus. Also, when a disintegrating oil filter caused crankshaft bottom end bearing damage, the shop time to replace the bearing shells was two hours and the job done with the engine in place. Every configuration has its advantages and disadvantages.
 

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You come from a harley don't you?
"Real" bikes have the transmission and the engine in the same casing; that means they share the same oil.
Oh, that must mean that my 1961 Austin 850 (Mini) was a "Real" car. The engine and transmission shared the same oil and sump. In fact I would have pieces of both (engine and transmission) clinging to the magnet on the drain plug when changing oil. Sort of like a small silver christmas tree. Kinda pretty.

Marc
 

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shifting

If you're having an issue with shifting "and" it's not just from not shifting firmly, which is often the problem even with experienced riders (get sloppy, me too), might try changing to a motorcycle specific synthetic or semi-synthetic oil. Generally makes shifting easier.

Bill H.
 

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Oh Ya. I had a BMW RT and I so enjoyed having and replacing nine different fluids on the darn thing. No thanks. I'm good with the three fluids on the strom. Besides, when was the last time someone had to go inside the engine case on a strom and when on a Harley? Yearly? Again, no thanks.
 

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griffin800..thanks for the advice if it was meant for me. It could be my shifting technique because the strom is not predictable in its shift quality. I tend to ride her hard also. But I ride both my bikes the same way.

As for lubrication...I already am using full synthetic. Hard shifting is only a small issue with me. As long a Ms. strom doesn't scatter her inards along the highway...I cool with it as is.
 

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My BMW R90S had a transmission separate from the engine. It was a real bike. Besides the advantages mentioned by Scott, being able to work on the transmission without taking the engine apart is a plus. Also, when a disintegrating oil filter caused crankshaft bottom end bearing damage, the shop time to replace the bearing shells was two hours and the job done with the engine in place. Every configuration has its advantages and disadvantages.
The R90S is a cool bike for sure! :yesnod:

However, I've seen photos of what clutch replacement entails on the current BMW R1200GS's- it isn't pretty. You basically have to split the bike in half to get to the clutch. I also have a hard time with the basic concept of a dry clutch on an ADV bike. Seems to me like a huge handicap to not be able to slip the clutch in really technical stuff without fear of cooking it. That said, those motors are serious tractors and can pull pretty well at idle with no throttle, so slipping the clutch isn't required as much. Like you say, each configuration has it's advantages and disadvantages.
 

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Dry clutchs

My R850R and GS1100 brought much grief and expense due to push rod seals on the tranmission side of the clutch. The 850 and the GS both had clutch failures between 30 and 40 thousand miles. A 10 dollar seal in the wrong place can end up costing 1500 to 2000 if it fails in the wrong place. Happy to have those lubes in the same sump...
 

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Oh Gawd; grow a sense of humour people. Not every snide remark is a despicable act of gratuitous harley-bashing; sometimes it's just a joke.

Which reminds me; maybe I ought to check the transmission oil in my K100.
 
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