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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
There seems to be lots of documentation about the TPS adjustment on the DL 1000~~~ Floating around the internet...

However,
Online documentation for the 650 seems to be absent.

First thing I see~~ I think.. The TPS is in a different place. ? .

I have the Service Manual and Plan to use the method where you check the voltage with a Multimeter on the TPS ...
Not look for the c-14 code ( or whatever that is)

I will be doing a TBS/ TPS...

Anyone got any advice on the TPS Adj for the 650.... Any good hints or things to watch for......

Thanks

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hey,

Today I adjusted my TPS. I am VERY Happy with the way it turned out.

Here is some history. 04 DL650, 6300 miles.
When I first got it, it ran perfect... throttle & engine very smooth.

Over time things got Buzzy.. I thought : OK I gotta sync the TB's ..
Yes they were out by about 12". I synced them.

Then things felt better but now I was Buzzy in a different place, on acceleration at 4, 5 and 6 thousand RPM. Buzzy in the Seat of the pants and Bars, Bike felt like it was working against itself, not that "electric" feeling.

Last week I checked the sync again, it was out a little, I adjusted.

Buzz was not going away, seems like over time it got worse.

I know everywhere you read about the TBS they also say adjust the TPS.
Well I was reluctant, because I didnt really understand the process...

I read a lot of documentation on the DL-1000 but I was never 100% sure the process was the same on the DL-650.
Also, the other Strom forum and FAQ shows a process that utilizes a multimeter and checking the voltage at the TPS.

This Multimeter process is good ( I think ) but I didnt want to remove the Airbox all the way.. So I used the other method using the bikes Dealer Mode..

Here is the Tutorial I followed.. it is very good
http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=10245&highlight=tps



As you can read they predict your TPS will jump to the next level at about 3000 rpm... thats where mine jumped up..

I was able to adjust mine to jump up at about 1700 RPM.

The result: Much Much Smoother acceleration. Buzz is gone.


Be warned, when you loosen and move the TPS it is EXTREMLY SENSITIVE.
Meaning, if you just breath on the TPS it is Way out of adjustment.....

So you have to take your time and be real patient... But dont give up

You can get it there.

I took it out for a test spin... Runs very very good, much smoother.

feels like it did when I first got it.

Best Regards !

Chris
 
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I had mine checked at 12k kilometers. Was still spot on.

I'm having it rechecked now at 33k but it's still smooth so I don't expect it to be out much if any.

Valves were also within spec at both 12k and 33 k
 

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WOW!!! That guy wrote an excellent article about the SV650.

For those who have done this adjustment, are the numbers and procedures EXACTLY the same for the DL650?

I've found out through the years that these forums make do-it-yourself items easy and inexpensive and much more reliable than having a dealer mess with a bike.


Chris said:
Hey,

Today I adjusted my TPS. I am VERY Happy with the way it turned out.

Here is some history. 04 DL650, 6300 miles.
When I first got it, it ran perfect... throttle & engine very smooth.

Over time things got Buzzy.. I thought : OK I gotta sync the TB's ..
Yes they were out by about 12". I synced them.

Then things felt better but now I was Buzzy in a different place, on acceleration at 4, 5 and 6 thousand RPM. Buzzy in the Seat of the pants and Bars, Bike felt like it was working against itself, not that "electric" feeling.

Last week I checked the sync again, it was out a little, I adjusted.

Buzz was not going away, seems like over time it got worse.

I know everywhere you read about the TBS they also say adjust the TPS.
Well I was reluctant, because I didnt really understand the process...

I read a lot of documentation on the DL-1000 but I was never 100% sure the process was the same on the DL-650.
Also, the other Strom forum and FAQ shows a process that utilizes a multimeter and checking the voltage at the TPS.

This Multimeter process is good ( I think ) but I didnt want to remove the Airbox all the way.. So I used the other method using the bikes Dealer Mode..

Here is the Tutorial I followed.. it is very good
http://forums.sv650.org/viewtopic.php?t=10245&highlight=tps



As you can read they predict your TPS will jump to the next level at about 3000 rpm... thats where mine jumped up..

I was able to adjust mine to jump up at about 1700 RPM.

The result: Much Much Smoother acceleration. Buzz is gone.


Be warned, when you loosen and move the TPS it is EXTREMLY SENSITIVE.
Meaning, if you just breath on the TPS it is Way out of adjustment.....

So you have to take your time and be real patient... But dont give up

You can get it there.

I took it out for a test spin... Runs very very good, much smoother.

feels like it did when I first got it.

Best Regards !

Chris
 

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GLAD I SAW THIS THREAD

WAY TO GO CHRIS [3/23/05 ENTRY]

This is exactly the tutorial I needed. things are making much more sense now!

Zapp
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cycelrama : Yes DL-650 and SV-650 Same Engine.. The Specs are identical.. I used the process just as it is written... worked perfect

3 weeks later .. the bike its still running PerfectO ..




HEY ZAPP !! I know.. it clarifies a lot... it's not as hard as you think (thats what she said)


Best Regards !

Chris
 

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Finally got around to performing this TPS adjustment on my '04 DL650 as well as my GF's '04 SV650N. On the SV650 it made a big difference in low-speed throttle control--this bike's herky-jerky character in low speed turns and parking lot maneuvers was rather irritating. The GF thinks it also revs more freely through the midrange also, but I'm skeptical. Then again I don't ride her bike that much and when I do I'm usually cracking it open as hard as conditions permit and grinning widely. On the DL650 I do notice smoother low-speed throttle response but not as big a change as on the SV. This makes sense to me as the DL650 throttle wasn't quite as snatchy as the SV to begin with. I think just as the greater pork of the DL slows it down relative to the SV, the off-throttle deceleration wasn't quite as abrupt likely due to it's greater momentum. Overall, it's an adjustment worth making because it's easy and there's no downside. Since different bikes may come from the factory with slightly different TPS settings, the improvement may be larger on some especially herky-jerky bikes.
 

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the cams are significantly different to put the power down low in the rpm range on the DL. I don't know about the gearing [what's the toothies on the SV?]

z
 

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Running rough

Ok so I have a question about the TPS. First of all I have a 09 dl650 and it’s running rough at low speeds…jerky, I think you guys know want I mean. From what I’ve read I think it’s the TPS. So I put my bike in dealer mode and I get –C 00. Does that mean may TPS is ok?
 

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It means the TPS is reasonably adjusted. The best adjustment is if the dash first raises when held at about 2500rpm. Adjustment is different from function. A well adjusted but worn TPS can cause stalling. Rough running at low speeds can have a number of causes. A bad TPS normally show up as an inability to idle after a long cruise.

What speeds and rpms gear selection are involved when running rough? Word your response like 3000rpm in sixth at 40mph, or 2000rpm in first at 10mph or the like.
 

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I don't remember all that info (I haven't ridden in about a year...work accident) but here's what I do remember. At any speed other then highway speeds when I'm not giving the bike a lot of throttle...just driving around town or back country roads at 30-40mph or lower and about 4000rpm or lower the bike starts to buck and jerk. It doesn't jerk when I'm at highway speeds, it just bucks and jerks at lower speeds. Bike has about 23,000 miles on it, I've changed the front sprocket from 15 to 16.
 

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Thodak,

A sensor providing wrong information can cause rough running, TPS included. Replacement wouldn't be a bad thing to try since it seems to be an often replaced part compared to average anyway. Some problems almost stand up and shout for a certain solution or at least a specific thing to check. This is not one of those problems on a Wee. If it is a short term problem, it could even be bad fuel.
 

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My 2005 Wee was doing that for a long time, and late last year I started having idling problems as well as increasingly unsteady throttle response.

Went through a few things; cleaning the fuel pre-filter, seafoaming the tank, oil change, air filter change etc... The couple shops I asked had no knowledge of a TPS problem, but once I insisted on changing mine (despite it testing as OK multiple times) all issues went away. Bike runs beautifully now.
 

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I don't remember all that info (I haven't ridden in about a year...work accident) but here's what I do remember. At any speed other then highway speeds when I'm not giving the bike a lot of throttle...just driving around town or back country roads at 30-40mph or lower and about 4000rpm or lower the bike starts to buck and jerk. It doesn't jerk when I'm at highway speeds, it just bucks and jerks at lower speeds. Bike has about 23,000 miles on it, I've changed the front sprocket from 15 to 16.
Do I start my bike in dealer mode?
 

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You can put the bike in dealer mode before or after starting. That only involves checking the adjustment of the TPS. If the TPS is the problem, it needs to be replaced.
 

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Thanks you greywolf,
I went ahead and started it in dealer mode and at 2500rpm it was still at -C00 after I warmed it up and at 3000 the line move to the top. This stared doing this in 2012, I was going to fix it last year but something came up, so now I can fix it. I'm just going to replace it!
 
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